Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Engine is comming this week, and now im left with a few bits and peices to take with me to the work shop.

I know stuff all and i try to reseach most things i come across to get a better understanding, But as some of you know it just never ends.

Now Its tiem to match turbos to the RB26, Injectors Ect Ect

Im heading down to Unigroup, and i want things to run as soon as possible, All parts ready to install, Ofcourse there will he a hicup or to along the way.

Now instead of me stressing over what turbos to use, What injectors i need, Will this susspension be ok and will this fuel pump suit.

I was thinking of just saying to the boys at uni group, Look here is the Motor, Its been forged with this, this and that. Now you tell me what i need to bring along to make 350kw.

The more expericaned boys here would have some insight on this, what can my needs be matched to, EG Are my limits the engine i have, How will the boys at the workshop know if it will hold and what power its capable off.

I just want things to run smoothly and i just want them to tell me what i need to buy and bring along,

So pretty much i want to call up, Tell him what the motor currently has been build with, say i want 3- 350 kw now tell me what to bring along.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388879-setting-up-for-build/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  On 20/01/2012 at 6:11 AM, sydking said:

So pretty much i want to call up, Tell him what the motor currently has been build with, say i want 3- 350 kw now tell me what to bring along.

So call Yavuz and do that?

You need to somewhat know what you want. Staying twins or going single? What fuel are you going to use?

Haha sorry it dose seem like a blog/rant. Ive just spent so much time looking into this product and that product. It's given me a headache. Problem is there is so many was Nd options to go down, everyone has a diffrent say on this turbo or that ecu ect. All I know so far is I will be running

This is the Motor im working with

Rb26dett:

ATI 600hp Harmonic balancer damper & pulley kit

N1 water pump

HKS oil pump

Tomei oil gallery orifice

ARP Head stud kit

Cometic Street Pro 87mm MLS head gasket

Nissan full gasket set

HKS step-2 valve springs

R34 Greddy N1 Street Special camshafts, R34 CAS

Ported & Flowed headwork

Greddy timing belt

Precision adjustable intake & exhaust cam gears

Drive key, tensioner & idler bearing kit

87mm CP Piston kit - full block tidy up

So far im in the market for:

Bosch fuel pump

Power FC

Injectors ( not sure which)

Then there is things like flywheel? i assume i would need an upgrade, And i havent put to much though into a Clutch either, Im not sure how long the std GTS4 one will hold up with 300+ kw.

All this can be talked over at uni group, But would much rather just have it all ready to go.

Most of the motor parts are irrelevant for what you are asking.

It's very simple. Turbo's are the only key part really. Everything else doesn't really matter in the terms you are thinking.

300-340rwkw - Garrett -9

360-400rwkw - Garrett -5

It's no harder decision than that.

ECU, injectors - pretty much anything out there will be OK if it is in the ball park. So talk to your tuner about that and go with their recommendations.

Sure is, nah I like my car and even though its economicly not the best route its what I want to do. Hard to sell in this market atm, but my aim is for a clean, stock looking gts will little attention and a quick motor under the hood, keeping the blue gts badging and a hidden front mount. Sounds good to me :) and not every tom Dick n Harry will have one

spoke to Yavuz, he said not to stress on parts atm, We will be geting the Engine in, Then working out where we need to go From their,

Also mentioned i was going to keep the twins, He seems to think and said he prefers a single set up on the rb26, and can have the turbo on song about 500-1000Rmp quicker then any twins with about 50 odd more Kw.

Also stated to put some though in a 25neo, This was my first plan but they seem to be hard to find in AWD, Stated they are getter from about 4-7k rpm down low but the Rb26 is the way to go for 7k Rpm and up.

Now im left with a few more things to think about

Yavuz will always prefer a single over twins. Just like certain customers of his always prefer twins over a single.

I'd lose the ATI balancer and get the Ross trigger one.

Injectors is easy, get injector dynamics ones, let Yavuz figure out which size for you.

Is this standard rb26 pistons and rods?

Not sure if standard, i got the list of parts directly as Fatz posted in his sale thread for this motor.

Its been 400km since the rebuild. I assume whats listed is whats been done. How much woul di be looking to go forgies? not to keen buy while the engine is out it will be alot easier

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...