Jump to content
SAU Community

Nissan Skyline Rb 25 Gtst Additional Mods


kay33
 Share

Recommended Posts

hey guys

ive got a 94 gtst r33 manuel, current mods are 3 inch turbo back exhuast, fmic, greddy e manage, pod filter, turbo smart dual stage boost controller, car is roughly 215-220 kilwatt at 14 psi (standard turbo).

i would like to get another 10-15 kilawatts if possible by maintaining the same amount of boost (14)psi

i have mentioned to my mechanic about gettin either injectors, fuel pump, or getting the additional injector and ignition harness for the e manage, but hes advised that itll be a waste of money, and that my next mod would have to be a turbo upgrade, but i dont really want to spend more than $800 on parts right now,

also do splitfire coil packs give more power?

any comments would be greatly appreciated

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Coilpacks definitely give noticeable power if your originals are f**ked. Otherwise you wont feel anything, they make it smoother n more responsive just like new plugs.

Edited by rondofj
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<br />New turbo or E85 + re-tune.<br />
<br /><br /><br />

Only problem with the 2nd half of this idea is that there probably isn't enough capacity left in the std injectors to make the power on E85.

As to the original question.....there's not a lot left in your turbo. You're already running it past the point (boost wise) where you can expect it to crap itself at some (unpredictable) time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only way you will make more power now is with bigger injectors, pump and retune on e85 if you wont upgrade the turbo.

If your car is making that power, regardless if people say its a happy dyno, you will be maxing out the stock fuelpump and injectors, so adding an extra one wont help if the pump is alreay maxxed out.

Seeing as you dont want to spend any money im not sure how your going to achieve this.

Coilpacks will be $600+ for Splitfires, injectors dont come cheap, then the fuel pump.. then a retune.

I say save your coins and upgrade it when you can afford it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would also find a new mechanic mate cos sounds like he dont know WTF he is talking about because with out bigger injectors and fuel pump a bigger turbo is useless to you! if you wanna do it cheap buy a 2nd hand GTR fuel pump and some SR20 injectors highflow ya turbs get it retuned if ya shop around and get lucky you MIGHT get some change from $2500 and you will be good for 250kw :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stock injectors will do ~230kw max safely

But yeah your turbo is out of flow so the only way to make more power is either bigger turbo, or run E85 so you can wind more ignition timing in, stock injectors prob won't flow enough though.

Next step is $4k really as you need airflow meter, injectors, turbo, fuel pump, most likely coilpacks, then clutch, then tyres, then a full retune regardless of if you want 230kw or 300kw

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks guys appreciate ur comments, so basically, if i do injectors and fuel pump, i should get a power increase, even if boost is stil kept at 14psi?

no why on earth would you get a power increase?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you already have enough fuel, eg injectors are not maxed out and nor is fuel pump, then putting bigger injectors in will just require a retune for zero gain, bigger fuel pump is probably not a bad idea but it won't give any extra performance, will just give you some extra safety and if you decide to use E85 down the track it will give you the required flow.

If you are maxing your injectors out the car will lean out and probably make slightly more power but pop the engine. Only replace them if you require extra fuel flow, eg a bigger turbo, as it will require a complete retune which is $$$

Link to comment
Share on other sites

honestly your car is not making 220rwkw - more like 190-200 MAX.

this is what literally hundereds of users on here have found, the only way to get that far on a stock turbo and 98octane is a happy dyno.

for around $800 you could find a second hand highflowed turbo. throw this in and you can get to roughly ~230rwkw (that's a real 230rwkw though) so roughly a 15% gain.

throw injectors, afm and fuel pump at it and you can look at more around the 250rwkw figure.

this is not the best method, however it is the cheapest :)

also as rolls said you will need a clutch... probably want to shim your diff too

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14PSI will not last very long on a stock turbo either. Do a search "r33 turbo max boost".

Stock Inj + bump the fuel pressure will get you a tad more power (whatever the number on the dyno reads)

After that you can throw what ever turbo you like at is, no more power. Your tuner is telling you turbo and rightly so. The stock turbo will not

last long at 14PSI. Do you want to be cleaning comp housing shards (yes yes the rear blows out, but it unbalances the shaft and the comp wheels generally grinds a nice path up against the comp housing) out of your intercooler?!?!

So basically you need to do all four, turbo, inj, pump and afm.

Also whats up the with e-manage? Just asking seeing 90% of the population use PFC, the other haltech, link, vipec etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Buy this bad boy and max re-tune it on the stock pump and injectors. It may cost a lil more than $800 but ur more than likely up for a new turbo sooner than later running 14psi on ur stock one

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Cover-T3-8cm-V-Band-Housing-TD06H-20G-/290651769905?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ac320c31#ht_2744wt_1396

Its on sale at the moment.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my car dynoed at 220 rear wheel kilawatts when it was auto @ 14psi, by initial d racing,

auto should read lower anyway... so that result is even more inflated... there is NO WAY your car makes a genuine 220rwkw on the stock turbo. the lil turbo simply cant flow enough to make those numbers and there have been HUNDREDS of cars on here that prove that.

i wasn't trying to insult you, i was being positive, saying that if you get a genuine 230rwkw it will be 30 - 40 rwkw faster than what you have now, not just 10.

fwiw my car made 185rwkw with the stock turbo on 14psi running the same (ish) mods and a pfc. most people get around the 190rwkw mark.

also stick to around 12 psi. the stock turbo is out of puff then anyway. by going to ~14 or above you really are only squeezing like 5kw out of the engine for a LOT of stress on the ceramic exhaust wheel.

:)

Also whats up the with e-manage? Just asking seeing 90% of the population use PFC, the other haltech, link, vipec etc.

emanage is fine for up to around 250rwkw. according to trent who used to specialise in them there is great gain in upgrading past one unless you are planning on 250+

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With my pre/power I use a remote trigger cable(3.5mm jack each end). I turn tv on, it turns both on via ARC. Or, just the pre with the remote or its streaming software, turns on both. Not that difficult at all. Obviously,  you would also want to actually update/upgrade over other factors in your life(bills, family, other hobbies, etc)
    • Yeah, nightfall was very "meh". And I'm crap at pvp, so feels like everyone has cheats(it's just my lack of skill). Final shape has been pretty good. New raid and dungeon are pretty good. If you want to give it a go, probably wait until it's on sale. But, as usual, most of it feels very familiar. 
    • This morning was Kingswood's Microscopic Wars. It is the album's 10 year anniversary this year and we went to see them play the whole album as a special show a couple of months back. Was pretty spectacular.
    • Yeah I would like to try and get a ADM car to reduce issues with insurance. I've decided if I end up getting this car I will set it up to be a sleeper build, leave it looking stock/dad spec on the outside I wonder if you can just drop in the 400r/Red/Z ECU or better still use a flashing tool to copy the map off one. Backup the factory map and then flash the 400hp cars onto the 300hp cars ECU?
    • Nah, yeah, nah. Speakers have a nominal impedance of 8 ohm that looks more like 6.4 ohm when measured. The receiver's amplifiers (all channels) are all rated to 6 ohm (I think, it's been a long time since I cared). The real problem is that many modern class D amps have aggressive protection circuitry that cuts off the fun if they think too much current is being drawn. And with my speakers having series crossovers, as opposed to more typical parallel crossovers, and big TL enclosures, they can certainly dip down to lower impedances at some frequencies and that easily triggers the protection. Pioneer receivers are somewhat famous for it, but even Denon, Onkyo, et al, all have many complaints against them across various models. It only does it when listening to music at high levels. You have to be putting your ears at risk to do it. But sometimes I want to do that. If I was serious about using it as a listening room I'd simply upgrade the amp for the front pair to a nice Rotel or something, and just use the receiver for signal handling and processing - although that would be a bit of a pain in the arse too. Have to switch on more shit, pre-amp volume vs main amp volume, etc etc.
×
×
  • Create New...