Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

Need some help/advice with my r33 gtst.

Basicly my AFM's keep dying after few hours of driving. I had 3 pink label afm's put 1 in, it would run good for a few hours then die. Drove from morley to birba lake put the car on the dyno for a run and the car made 220bhp with the car f*king up. Switched the afm again put the car on the dyno and pulled 278bhp. Cars mostly stock basic mods fmic exhaust and 10psi of boost. AFR on first bad run was around 10-10.5. AFR on good run was up around 12, All afms were just standard pink labels.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389097-r33-air-flow-meter-problems/
Share on other sites

Are you sure its not a connection or something else?

1 not working - yep

2 not working - you got poor luck.

My experiance is that the either work or they dont (one the car is warm) so even stranger that its ok for a few hours then goes bad. Happy to be corrected on that.

Find someone that has a working unit, try it and if it still happens you know it something else causing the problem.

Cool Story:Personally I have had them stuff up too. It still worked unless u put your foot down and then would read so incorrectly it caused a boost cut, extremely wide range of idles depending on weather or car would be lacking in power for no apparent reason and lurch! Purchased a second hand unit from here.. guess what.. just as faulty. Purchased a unit from JPC, problem solved and never returned.

Fix:

1 - Check your wiring for the AFM is not shorting out or is damaged between your ecu and afm. Run a direct temporary wire (if your ok with wiring) to test this.

2 - Try an AFM with a guarantee that it works!

  • 10 months later...

still COULD be coilpacks, have them bench tested before you rule them out. especially if they're chinese copies, normally splitfires are pretty good though

ive personally had a brand new aftermarket coilpack fail, so it is possilble

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...