Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 7 months later...

Well, it has been ages since I've posted on here, and basically nothing has happened with the car... A lot of stuff happened for me though, I was offered a job up in Sydney and am now living and working here, sold my ute and R33 skyline but kept the R32. The plan is to come back on weekends and take it out to the track every now and again, do some super sprints and hill climbs etc to get back into it. I don't own a car up here (close enough to the city there's no need) so I need to get back into driving properly.

I've been waiting on some stuff with the mechanic for a while (have been pestering him with phone calls) but got a call last week with some good and bad news.

Good news: My mechanic had his auto electrician friend around and they isolated the ECU on the loom from the rest of the car and were able to get the injectors firing by turning it manually, the PFC was functioning perfectly. There were also a few wires found which were seemingly disconnected when the car was stripped out and hadn't been reconnected. At this point everything was looking good for getting it to finally turn over properly.

Bad news: They hooked up the splitfire coilpacks and tried again, the PFC turned itself off and started to get a burnt smell. They disconnected the coilpacks, but after this the injectors no longer worked and the PFC didn't come back on.

I got in contact with my mate who fixed the PFC last time, he went and picked it up from the mechanic the next day. The exact same two chips have burnt out, which means it should be fine (RAM chip and another, no ROM chips as far he can see), but still needs to be fixed. They were thinking the coilpacks may have issues (I know there's two types for RB25's depending on your engine?) or a resistor pack which my friend has taken and will be testing also.

Anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing this? Previous experiences or knowledge in this area would be great as I don't particularly want to be playing the "toast the ECU" game each time they plug it in.

THE ENGINE STARTED!!!1!

Had a call from my mechanic yesterday, when the ECU was fried the other day they actually went through the whole process again but with one of his friends GTR Power FC's (brave move). This had the injectors firing again, and after hooking everything up it still continued to function though there wasn't any spark, where my ECU turned into an expensive (though shitty) toaster.

A few days later he shoved in an RB20 ignitor module, and hooked up a stock standard RB20 ECU. This gave it spark, it started, and he ran the engine for around 20-30 seconds. Everything sounded healthy, oil pressure built up etc.

Now when he called he said his friends ECU was a PowerFC for a R32 GTR, whereas mine is for an R33 GTR and that may explain why mine exploded and his didn't. As far as I know (and as far as I can see online) the PowerFC released versions for the R32/R33 GTR (combined, with Autech Stagea also?) and the R34 GTR and GTST variants were separate. They opened up both PowerFC's side by side and the internals are completely different, possible different models? I've asked the mechanic for the model number of his friends PowerFC which worked so I can check a few things out.

He suggested that there was simply an issue with my old ECU after the first encounter which caused it to fail again, and that buying a new PowerFC would fix the issue. Seems strange to me that a stock RB20 ECU works though, as the wiring is meant to be different?

Either way, the engine sounds healthy and actually works, that's the most expensive part of the whole operation so it's a relief to finally hear it turn over. At this point I'm looking at buying a brand new R32/R33 GTR PowerFC to put in the old girl, but I want to be certain it will work before I do.

Any thoughts on the above would be much appreciated :)

TL;DR

My engine started, it's healthy. I ejaculated from pure excitement. Shit's still broken.

the rb20 ecu will run fine on a modified to suit gtr loom as the main difference between the 2 is just doubling up the the afm signals.

gtr power fc's are cheap as chips i wouldnt bother with a nistune board as they arent that cheep and a power fc is easier to retune if your going to play around with the car

R32 and R33 ECU's are identicle. The PFC has got about 5 different versions, no feature changes just different manufacturing techniques.

If you run a GT-R PFC you need to mod the airflow maps to suit the single AFM. Not hard to do if your tuner has the Datalogit software

.....wut?

I think he's talking about the R32/R33 PowerFC ECU's ;)

Looked into Nistunes, it appears they really aren't that much cheaper if you're starting with nothing (no base ECU, no consult cable etc) and want the tuning software. I also briefly looked into Haltech, but seeing as I'd need to change the loom _again_ to do that I'm pretty hesitant and don't see any major benefits for what I'll be doing.

I called the mechanic up to talk about the Nistune option, and at this point I wasn't certain it would even run with an RB26 PowerFC, but he assured me everything was working except for spark with his mates ECU, and now the ignition module has been replaced it should be good to go. He's getting his mates PowerFC back and will get her started with that over the next week, and will pass on the model number just to be sure.

Does anyone know of any ridiculously cheap R32/R33 GTR PowerFC's around Tassie? If not I think I'll go with a brand new one from somewhere which will give me a 12 month warranty, I want to be 100% certain there's nothing wrong with the ECU when we put it in because of all the dramas we've had up to date.

  • 3 weeks later...

Down for Christmas and just got back from looking at the car, ordered a new ECU from Brad before I came down and it has been installed in the car with no problems. The 6boost manifold has been mounted with the Tial wastegate plumbed in, and the 3076r is hooked up properly as well.

The only thing (that I'm aware of) that needs to be done is building the dump pipe and some of the intercooler piping, then it's a bit of tidy up and a tune. He started it up and it was as loud as hell, to be expected with no exhaust set up yet, but sounds like an absolute beast.

Glad that all the electrical issues are out of the way (or appear to be for the moment) so we can focus on getting everything else set up and running. Once it's all done I'll be catching the first flight down to take her to the track.

Thanks to Brad for a super quick delivery of the PowerFC ;)

Yay!!!

How good is brad?! Always super helpful :) hilarious sense of humor to boot

Great to deal with, definitely would recommend to anyone. He was really helpful and very quick to get the PowerFC down to Hobart, also flashed the ECU to the right injector size and AFM before posting it down.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean it's probably likely that people overestimate their skills in dialling in a setup and noticing the changes. I had SK shocks and springs, and added heavier springs and got them revalved by Sydney Shocks to suit based upon what I told them I wanted the car to handle like. I got back a completely different feeling set of shocks, which probably (?) feel great on track but holy hell are they rough on tram tracks and the like. The shock dyno actually looks pretty similar to Shockworks (from what I can surmise from a screenshot of a youtube video - and my dyno printout...) Truth be told I doubt I'd be any faster or slower with either setup, or camber/castor combination. I also had whiteline eccentric castor bushes up front of my R34. I removed them and put in poly non-adjustable ones to soothe my OCD (nobody ever set the castor the same side to side, and it'd be near impossible to do) and be happy the wheel is centered in the well now for clearance reasons. Yes I wanted it to move 1mm 'back' :p I've effectively set my castor back to stock, negating all the benefits of that which is supposedly massive. I've probably also altered toe and camber in a negative (detrimental) way. I can't tell any difference steering the car.
    • You reckon? I have to disagree. Notwithstanding that at some point we may all be forced to do this to our cars if we want to keep driving them, there is absolutely nothing about an electric-converted-previously-IC-car that is ever good. EVs that are built by OEMs on platforms that were originally IC already suck, let alone the shitty outcomes that result from doing it as a retro to something that was actually built as an IC car. This is because the platform really needs to be designed to house the battery in a useful place (ie, down as low as possible) and the motors are properly located relative to the wheels that they have to drive. Converted platforms already suck at this. But when you try to shove sufficient battery capacity into a previously IC car, you can't put it down on/in the floor, because that space doesn't exist. You can't find enough space where the fuel tank used to be (if it is an inboard fuel tank) and you don't want to hang it out behind the rear axle line if you had a rear fuel tank. And there's not enough space in the tunnel if you still want to use it for anything remotely like what it was originally used for. The engine bay is too big for a motor, and you'd really prefer that the motor for the rear wheels wasn't in the front engine bay anyway. And there's not enough room where the diff was for a proper man-sized E motor. And then.... there is the complete lack of soul and emotion that is provided by EVs. There are some cracking restomods out there. Like the Alfaholics GTA thingo. But it is petrol powered. Look at the alternative EV version of a GTA restomod by Totem. it is jaw droppingly beautiful. But by all reports is is objectively awful to drive, despite having 600 HP or something, simply because there is nothing there. It sounds like a sewing machine or a leaf blower. It should scream and wail and make the hairs on your neck stand up. Oh, and it's 1500 bloody kg in a car that was <900kg when new. GTRs are heavy enough as it is without pushing them up to 2tonnes worth of pork.
    • https://www.dezeen.com/2025/01/06/nissan-electric-r32-skyline-gt-r-godzilla-sports-car/   I reckon this is pretty cool. Lots of other Resto mods have turned to ev power.
    • hahaha @joshuaho96 the most action it gets is when I have to drive from West to SE VIC to meet the fam. Even then, it;s on highway cruising speeds
    • don't know anyone in this thread, but i just found it, read the entire thing in a few hours, realized greg is still posting progress, and just have to say, this is awesome. it looks awesome. 100% right about the Uras kit making it a pain to get on hoists...have the same kit on my 34 and it takes six 2x4s and race ramps to do it without taking parts off. this reminds me exactly of this thread. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/r63-amg-the-unicorn-of-my-destruction/110824/page8/
×
×
  • Create New...