Please Confirm, Gurus

[sonnyQ]

Coasting along at 60km/h on my way to work this morning, my car (R34GTT) starting running really rough and slowly dies to a stall. Now, this happened only a few weeks ago and turned out my battery was shagged - now have a new one and same thing basically has happened again at pretty much the same intersection. I knew it wasn't the battery as the car was turning over fine but there was a weird squeal from time to time. I let it sit for a bit trying to start it every few minutes - after about 10 mins it starts and I putt off to work.

Only have basic mods: 3.5in turbo back, FMIC, pod filter and I have had my 100k service done (around 80k's on the car) but I don't think the coil packs have been done. I know these are prone to fail but just want to see if this issue could be anything else? Do you think I will be able to make it home this afternoon?!

[sonnyQ]

Only other thing I have to add is it was raining today and the other day when it died!

[89CAL]

Check for bad earths and loose/dirty plugs. also check your battery terminals are clean and making good contact

[sonnyQ]

thanks mate, will do. Other that that would it be a safe bet the coil packs are the prob?

[Borci88]

I wouldn't be so quick to assume coilpacks, in fact it could be something smaller like the AFM or CAS. If you think coilpacks though I think you should take them out, check for burn marks on them and if so, wrap some electrical tape around them and see if this changes anything.

[sonnyQ]

well I am only speculating as it seems to be a common prob. To those that have had coilpacks fail on them - what are the symptoms?

[34GeeTeeTee]

well I am only speculating as it seems to be a common prob. To those that have had coilpacks fail on them - what are the symptoms?

When mine failed it was just one that failed and you get a permanent missfire as one coilpack shit itself... It happened on startup and i just replaced them on the spot with Splitfires.... Not the same as what you are describing?

BTW - Anthony had some splitfires for sale dirt cheap in the FS section (Guilt_toy)

[sonnyQ]

When mine failed it was just one that failed and you get a permanent missfire as one coilpack shit itself... It happened on startup and i just replaced them on the spot with Splitfires.... Not the same as what you are describing?

BTW - Anthony had some splitfires for sale dirt cheap in the FS section (Guilt_toy)

Hmm, no definitely not what's happening to me mate. Spoke to my mechanic and he thinks AFM or one of the sensors, he is going to check for fault codes tomorrow morning. Better not be something major as I have just dropped a load getting the 100k service done early!

[sonnyQ]

bit of an update - my mechanic didn't find any fault codes or anything abnormal, however suspected (along with a few others) that the symptoms suggested AFM or CAS. The car stalled on me again today but instead of just dying out of the blue it started shuddering under acceleration first then eventually slowed to a complete stall.

A mate flushed the AFM out with cleaner and also cleaned out the pod etc - seemed to be a bit of rubbish in there along with a half cracked AFM plug. Taped the plug up and I took it for a half hour drive with no issues so far....HOPING that's all it was but probs not that lucky so brings me to my next questions - which AFM's fit R34? can I go straight to a Z32 or should I just go for a brand new OEM? cheers

[me_larr]

Z32 will need a re-tune, Clint

Physically the same size as the RB25 AFM but with more resolution.

Perfect opportunity to get the car Nistuned although I think you'd struggle to find a mob competent enough to do it in Twmba.

I believe you could try asking your mates with R33s if they can swap AFMs with you for a bit to see if the problem goes away.

I'm not sure if RB25 Green (R33 series1) and Pink (R33 series2 and R34 Neo) labelled AFMs are the same but I'm confident the pink ones from the R33 are exactly the same as the R34.

Could also be the plug as you mentioned...be it cracked / loose / etc..

[jhjones]

try resolder it.

[sonnyQ]

me_larr = Nick?

I am thinking about the nistune/z32 route but really just want to get the car back to being 100% reliable first. Really need to find another afm to try...

[me_larr]

At your service.

Trolling SAU since 2007

Yea, try to get another AFM/plug to test. If problem re-emerges, you can move onto something else (think you already know this haha)

I would offer but my AFM/CAS/Coils/whateveryouneed does you no good

[sonnyQ]

bit of an update - cleaned the AFM and filter and also taped up the plug as it looked a bit sad. Car hasn't stalled again as such but sometimes it's hard to start after a long drive. wtf could that be?

[dirty rb]

Mine bacame hard to start after long drives/when hot. I changed th CAS and its 100% better.

[fastjetjockey]

May be completely unrelated. May be a lil bit related... I had a camry once. It had a dodgy voltage regulator in the alternator. This caused the alternator to slowly deny charge to the car. The battery light was always on (thought it wa faulty, lol). This then lead to a loss of power on the highway... spluttering... and finally, a stuck car. Battery was dead. as it wasn't charged.

But since you didn't mention a battery light, or anything of the sort. I'll assume it's not that. But have you ran a multi over your car yet? Just for kicks?

[BOOZTJUNKEY]

Sounds like a CAS issue i would swap it and see if tthats it

[sonnyQ]

Yeah my mechanic speculated CAS originally but wouldn't that make it run dodgy more consistently or would it only be an issue for hot starts? It seems to be fairly erratic atm. Sometimes it will hot start fine, sometimes it will have a slight hesitation, other times I will have to crank it for a couple of minutes - let it sit for a few minutes - then try again.

Dion - haven't seen any battery lights etc, and I put a new batt in only a month or 2 ago so hopefully not an issue. Running a multimeter over it sounds like a good idea - any specific areas I should check?

[dirty rb]

Just to elaborate a bit. My car was hard to start hot and would itermittantly miss at times through out the rev range.

Also at times i would take off from the lights and the car would bog and crawl for 50 meters then take off.

I replaced the Afm (the old one was clean with good solder on the pins) This fixed the missfire and bogging down issue.

Was still hard to start and worse when hot.

I Bought a new CAS and fitted that, now starts perfect.

Pulled the old one apart to inspect. There was wear in the keyway, when spinning the shaft you could feel the rumble in the bearings and it was full of dust.

May be of some help

[sonnyQ]

Just to elaborate a bit. My car was hard to start hot and would itermittantly miss at times through out the rev range.

Also at times i would take off from the lights and the car would bog and crawl for 50 meters then take off.

I replaced the Afm (the old one was clean with good solder on the pins) This fixed the missfire and bogging down issue.

Was still hard to start and worse when hot.

I Bought a new CAS and fitted that, now starts perfect.

Pulled the old one apart to inspect. There was wear in the keyway, when spinning the shaft you could feel the rumble in the bearings and it was full of dust.

May be of some help

yeah mate, I was having the bogging down issue too until I cleaned my AFM.

Not sure if this helps diagnose my issue further, but I notice the car seems to pop a lot more more between gear changes - especially when I am under it. I may just have to bite the bullet and get a new CAS, is it worth trying a second handy?