Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lads,

Did a search, didnt help me too much. Just quickley, How many k's should one expect to get from a tank of fuel? my old 33 get about 350k's on a tank of 98, but it was pretty modified. justy wondering how the stag goes if its pretty much stock?

cheers adam

Edited by adamskill
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389211-stagea-fuel-consumption/
Share on other sites

I've got an RS4S with Yellowjackets, cat back, running 10psi, I drive spiritedly but don't flog it (no redline in every gear) and I get 400-420 around town and 500-520 down the highway sitting on 113km/h or there about. Hope that helps.

what are they like to drive? do they 'feel' as big as they look? (no offence intended)

i currently have a wrx wagon. it handles like a go cart, but its pretty heavily modified, and it really no suited to where i currently live. i cant even drive it up our road as its a dirt road on a farm.

looking for somthing that isnt too fragile, but looks the goods and handles/ preforms well, but still tame enought for the mrs to drive and not have to worry about her safety..

We expect around 14L/100km from the fat slug around town with 11L/100km on the highway but a reasonably modified stagea.

My R33 gets around 12-12.5L/100km around town with +280rwkw.

whats that equate to in terms of a full tank of fuel? how big is the fuel tank?

also any idea how different it is for a stck standard model?

My wife loves driving my stagea. I would pick the stagea over an Sti anyday of the week. If you have a heavy foot they will use fuel but considering they are a small 6 in a medium sized car it's expected.

Which model Stagea are you asking about?

From what I have read on here, it would seem that the M35's are generally lighter on fuel than the C34's, but again mostly depends on how it is driven.

I was getting similar numbers to STAG250 when I had my M35 (650-700kms per 70L) but that incorporated a fair bit of highway driving (although not all highway driving).

for my S2 RS4V managing roughly 300-350 out of 40L nd thats with a quarter of a tank left. as i dont like running below that. only engine mods are exhaust, nd boost to 11psi. hoping to get it a little better once i get my new ECU that is in there tuned.

Hi

After only a couple of tank refills I can report I can get around 720km/80l in my Pm35 350rx which equates to around 11l/100km in mostly city/suburban driving. Havent had a chance to get on the open road yet. In comparison, my modded 33 would average 12.5-13l/100km for 63l for the same driving, so Im stoked with its economy. Plus its got lots of torque I reckon. Thats using Shell V-Power in both.

Edited by YEE-HAA

In my 2002 m35 i only gt around 400 around town, 480 open road.

Think my car is running a bit rich, it blows a little bit of black smoke when accelerating and possibly pinging, anyone have any ideas what could be wrong??

any help much apreciated.

In my 2002 m35 i only gt around 400 around town, 480 open road.

Think my car is running a bit rich, it blows a little bit of black smoke when accelerating and possibly pinging, anyone have any ideas what could be wrong??

any help much apreciated.

Clean the AFM, change the plugs and air filter. If its still running rich there will be deeper issues like o2 sensor etc.

In my 2002 m35 i only gt around 400 around town, 480 open road.

Think my car is running a bit rich, it blows a little bit of black smoke when accelerating and possibly pinging, anyone have any ideas what could be wrong??

any help much apreciated.

Are you using the highest grade petrol available? Check to see if you airfilter is cloged?

Clean the AFM, change the plugs and air filter. If its still running rich there will be deeper issues like o2 sensor etc.

There's some excellent new Blitz Panel Filters in the Stagea Classifieds!! :whistling:

Oh, and to stay on tpic. I get around 480 - 500km to the tank suburban driving (very little freeway travel)

Edited by prince_skyline

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just checking, when we are talking about high temp fluid, are we all referring to DOT 5.1? I haven't had any issues with changing it every 2-3 years. 
    • Yeah that is still true AFAIK.....good brake fluid should be changed annually because it absorbs water faster which is more often than most mechanics would do it. There are cheap tools that check water% in brake fluid if you all scientific about it. I for sure would (do) run good brake fluid in anything that even casually saw the track like Murray said; avoiding the risk of "exciting" fade is worth it
    • Well, back in the day..... "race" fluids, which were essentially only really "high temp" fluids, used to absorb water more readily. So they really needed to be changed more often anyway. The coincidence of that being directly necessary along with it being what racers would do as a matter of course was just fine.
    • Does the high temp fluid degrade any different over time compared to normal one? That's one thing I've always been wondering. Because a track car is going to get the fluid flushed probably way more often than every two years and will see less kilometers driven. I would think the requirements are different. I'm running Motul RBF 600 in mine. Was recommended by my mechanic before a trackday and I've stuck with it since. Hasn't seen the track since but I've kept buying and using it for servicing anyway.
    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks.    OH, a quick side question - would you use brake fluid from an opened container even if the lid has been on? Eg, if you have a bottle that you opened last time you flushed, it's been tightly closed, is it still good? 
×
×
  • Create New...