Thoughts On Track R34 Gt-R

[No Crust Racing]

As many of you will know, I plan to get back into a GT-R in the future and while I realise the 33, which I had, is a better bang for buck solution, I've always wanted a 34 from a purely aesthetic point of view.

Initially I was thinking keep the S13, take the road reg off which allows me to go a bit further with mods and use that as my track hack as it doesn't really cost much to fix and I'm not too stressed about bashing up the car. Plus I will definitely not see 50% of the money back that's gone into it, and it's a bloody cheap backyard build.

That said, common sense tells me that it's a bit costly to have a daily, a dedicated track S13 AND a GT-R which would, in that line-up, be more of a weekend car.

So my train of thought leads me to ask, if I'd only be tracking the car 2-5 times a year tops, I'm not in competition and I don't tend to drive at 10/10ths anyway, perhaps when it comes time I should just ditch the Sil and track the 34.

As I'd always intended to go 300-330awkw (until the stock motor goes) I realise it's already a fairly costly exercise but I'm wondering if there's anything specific I should be concerned about if I intend to track a little bit. I'd fit an oil cooler, ducting, relocator, brake ducts, and a good radiator as I have on the S13 and I'd need a second set of rims and tyres for sure, but otherwise is there anything else I should worry about?

I'm thinking sump and cam cover baffles, external oil return and restrictor for the head, diff/trans coolers etc. Things that the S13 doesn't need as it's so light and underpowered but that a heavier more powerful GT-R might require.

Having these things in mind affects the direction I take with my savings, what I do with the S13, and the timeline for getting my 34 (Got a mortgage etc).

Thread can be moved if appropriate, but my last related thread (Definitive Guide to Building 300-33kw GT-R) seemed happy enough here.

Edited January 24, 2012 by ActionDan

[nomnomv8]

I understand you are adamant on an R34 but if go-fast on a budget is what you want you can build a bulletproof 32 that will run rings around the 34 and still have left over change to go on holidays.

In saying that if you have decided that this car will be 100% track dedicated and never see the road I would definately go along the lines of bringing in a race-only import as it will save you minimum $20,000 for a R34 GTR.

As you already know the RB26 is notorious for oil problems so for a regular track car a sump extension kit (you can get Greddy ones from memory) and a baffle kit along with the several other measures you mentioned above are a MUST.

[No Crust Racing]

It has to be a 34, otherwise I will always be left wanting one and it will likely be the last performance car I buy.

It will still be street reg'd, far from dedicated track car. As mentioned I'd only be doing 2-5 track days a year tops. The rest of the time it would be a weekender only as I'm happier driving a comfy car for a daily.

Cheers for the feedback on the oil control.

[R31Nismoid]

I'd fit an oil cooler, ducting, relocator, brake ducts, and a good radiator as I have on the S13 and I'd need a second set of rims and tyres for sure, but otherwise is there anything else I should worry about?

I'm thinking sump and cam cover baffles, external oil return and restrictor for the head, diff/trans coolers etc. Things that the S13 doesn't need as it's so light and underpowered but that a heavier more powerful GT-R might require.

Given oil restrictor, means you'll be pulling apart that's kinda pointless.

Same for diff/trans coolers, external drains etc. You really don't need 3/4 the stuff you've listed. Just look @ all the basic builds - or better yet start going to track days and asking people. You'll find just how little mods they had (when starting out) compared to your list.

Just look @ Snowman for an example when he started out on a stock motor as a few others with similar set-ups.

Oil Cooler, Brake ducts, stock sump, semi comps. Thats it. Not sure about radiator, but they are cheap & basic install so why not.

More important is brakes and suspension.

Lasted what, 3 years of solid circuit work @ 330rwkw before it needed rebuilding. About as good as you can expect for 10-15yo motors that then see constant high RPM IMO.

[No Crust Racing]

Good to know Ash, wasn't sure if the above was overkill on an unopened motor and if it was the stuff you do during a build or not.

I've read a number of threads on how the R34s in particular suffer from higher coolant temps, It seems leaving the factory cooler core in place is a good way to try and avoid this but are there any other common trends for cars that see light track work?

I'll assume it's going to eat pads/rotors/tyres/fuel pretty ferociously too.

Edited January 24, 2012 by ActionDan

[R31Nismoid]

I edited my post, re-read it

But ye 34s run a bit warmer so just get a Rad. Racepace have a custom tri-pass item that is around half the cost of a PWR one. So i'd go with that as it works into a budget perfectly!

You don't need after market I/C or anything like that either.

[No Crust Racing]

Of the track days I've done in the 13, I can think of maybe one R34 GT-R there, and he wasn't exactly chatty. I swear some people think that a basic timed track day is the Bathurst 1000. Keeping specs and parts secret... I mean wtf?

Naturally I'd be having a chat with Thompson as I know he and the boys know their shit. Just interested to know of anything that is going to really hurt the car in track conditions.

[Piggaz]

Oil Cooler, Brake ducts, stock sump, semi comps. Thats it. Not sure about radiator, but they are cheap & basic install so why not.

Victoria. The land of the bearingless RB's.

[TiTAN]

a large capacity baffled wet sump or full dry sump should be considered if its a serious track car.

the costs vs a rebuild if it spins a bearing is worthwhile.

[R31Nismoid]

Victoria. The land of the bearingless RB's.

NSW - Where SBS runs rife.

(sumb baffle syndrome)