Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtr Owners, What Adjustable Arms Are You Using?


Recommended Posts

Meh. ALL my Ikeya arms are pillow balls and some have been in there for almost 4 years. They're fine.

People make out like they flog out in 100 km's. As for noise.... Can't hear nothing!

Your car has only seen 2 full days of driving time haha

But 20 years for rubber vs less than 10 for rose joints or less again for cheap shit ones

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shhh, can't tell people :P. They are never on hand and always have to wait and order em in.

I have the castor bush kit with an offset pin for more caster, so i get to keep the light aluminum lower arms.

Whitle front and rear adjustable sway bars, and I just ordered the rear swaybar bearing link kit to go with it.

My 32GTR had whiteline sway bars too, and their camber correction bush kits. 6 years of use and the bushes were fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whats wrong with whiteline? no ones mentioned whiteline except for sean.

I dont think whiteline do actual adj arms , they only have the adj bushes from what I have seen and those bushes are fine if you only want to make very slight adjustments as there is not much in them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yuh, Whiteline bush kits are nearly useless for gaining adjustment more than about 0.5 degree (depending on which arm we're talking about). In addition, I replaced my original front caster arms that were fitted with Whiteline polyurethane bushes with some rose jointed adjustables. Even without winding in any more caster the car improved massively just because the squishability of the bushes was gone. Those caster bushes take a lot of force, and they do move a lot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont think whiteline do actual adj arms , they only have the adj bushes from what I have seen and those bushes are fine if you only want to make very slight adjustments as there is not much in them.

From the whiteline website:

http://www.whiteline.com.au/do_segue4.php?make=Nissan&model=Skyline&model_final=SKYLINE+R34+GTR+AWD&vehicle=11%2F98-02

Part numbers:

KTA 128

KTA117

Those are the one's I plan to use....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

just an update...

pulled trigger on a set of Cusco arms front and rear. Perfect fit (as expected) no farking around, but some issues though.... can't seem to run less than -3 camber no the front :( - rear is set about -1 which is about right for street for me, but as much as the turn-in is freaking nice with the current setup, i got adjustable arms hoping i could run street'ish camber and cranking some more neg in when needed.

is this normal for cusco arms? are they just that much shorter that you can't actually get 'a little' camber? i was kinda thinking like -1.5. on the fronts....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it's low but not that low, and the suspension place said the same thing. It looks low'ish but in terms of geometry etc it's THAT low... that's why i'm a little confused.... - if anything, i'd probably want to drop it some more

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You all are absolute legends! Thank you for helping me put this into context with your comparisons!
    • There's probably an underlying issue with the A/C system too. I recently fixed mine, now it's fully control by the Haltech and car's factory HVAC controller  Have a squiz here:    
    • And by the way, I've also checked the ECU diagnostic numerous times and got a bad O2 sensor code and initially an Ignition Primary code, which is why I replaced the O2 sensor and all the ignition components (coil packa, plug and loom). No codes have been coming up lately despite the ongoing issue.
    • Hey pber13, unfortunately still no luck. At this point the following has been done with little or no success: - Spark plugs replaced, gapped to 0.8mm - Splitfire coilpacks installed to replace originals - Replaced Ignition Coil/Coilpack harness with a new genuine nissan one - New fuel filter - Replaced AFM/MAF sensor - Injectors have been thoroughly cleaned with an online flush (without removing) - Upper engine and inlet decarbed - blew tons of black smoke out, cleared the carbon deposits from the top of the engine and exhaust.  - IACV removed and thoroughly cleaned with carburettor cleaner - O2 sensor replaced with new and genuine one -  Smoke test revealed no vacuum leaks - Healthy compression test of 160psi across all 6 cylinders Overall the car does run a lot smoother now, no backfires between gear shifts like it did originally... but the rough idle when warmed up is still there. It may not even be a misfire but simply a rough idle. Seems crazy to me that so many people have had this issue and seemingly no one has gotten to the bottom of it, or at least never bothered to post if they did! Hope you have more luck than I did pber13, I'm at a point now where I'm just going to try to ignore it unless it gets worse. Would love to fix it but I've genuinely run out of ideas of what it could be.
    • I got the full frenchys kit too. Really awesome kit. Easy to install my only complaint was the hardlines I think could be routed differently (I modified mine) but I realise the kit needs to suit multiple applications. This was the hard lines before I modified them. They were touching the wastegate pipe. I ended up reducing the distance between firewall and first bend. The made it so they tucked along the frame rail.
×
×
  • Create New...