Setting Up R32 Gtr For Track

[Nur33]

Hi Everyone

I think most of you know by now of our family built R32 GTR N1 Drag Car, anyway my dad,brother and I are considering turning the car into a multipurpose racer, time attack and drag racing. As i am getting rid of my R33 GTR and my 350Z cause street cars are boring as shit after driving 800+hp R32 GTR around and cops are just pains in the arse and its not worth the hassle+ i wanna use the full potential of the car which you sure as hell can't do on the street. I was thinking of keeping all my track parts off my R33 and transferring it over to the R32 because the R32 has pretty much everything it needs to be competitive around a track. Rollcage, seam welded, dry sump, massive PWR Radiator, 1.5 and 2way diffs, PPG Gearbox, Carbon Body Panels, Super Strong engine etc.

Now all's i have to do is put my AP Racing 6pot 370mm Front and 4pot 330mm Rear Brakes on, put the rest of my Ikeya Formula parts on, buy some Tein Circuit Master Coilovers, Bolt on a smaller turbo on like a HKS T04Z or T51R Kai and slap some huge aero aids on it and a set of 18x9.5 TE37 Superlaps with Advan A048's on it. All up i won't be out of pocket a great deal as the car pretty much has everything on it and i have half that parts list sitting in the shed.

Ok question time, Queensland raceway is the closest track for me which is still 1000kms away, i have never been around the track so i don't know what is like will a car with my setup be OK on it? Is it a fast flowing track suitable for high HP cars or is it for responsive cars? and what spring rates/geometry settings would be good there? Oh and also what club do i join or who do i speak to i am mainly just interesting in time attack?

Cheer

Benny

[FineLine]

Hi Everyone

I think most of you know by now of our family built R32 GTR N1 Drag Car, anyway my dad,brother and I are considering turning the car into a multipurpose racer, time attack and drag racing. As i am getting rid of my R33 GTR and my 350Z cause street cars are boring as shit after driving 800+hp R32 GTR around and cops are just pains in the arse and its not worth the hassle+ i wanna use the full potential of the car which you sure as hell can't do on the street. I was thinking of keeping all my track parts off my R33 and transferring it over to the R32 because the R32 has pretty much everything it needs to be competitive around a track. Rollcage, seam welded, dry sump, massive PWR Radiator, 1.5 and 2way diffs, PPG Gearbox, Carbon Body Panels, Super Strong engine etc.

Now all's i have to do is put my AP Racing 6pot 370mm Front and 4pot 330mm Rear Brakes on, put the rest of my Ikeya Formula parts on, buy some Tein Circuit Master Coilovers, Bolt on a smaller turbo on like a HKS T04Z or T51R Kai and slap some huge aero aids on it and a set of 18x9.5 TE37 Superlaps with Advan A048's on it. All up i won't be out of pocket a great deal as the car pretty much has everything on it and i have half that parts list sitting in the shed.

Ok question time, Queensland raceway is the closest track for me which is still 1000kms away, i have never been around the track so i don't know what is like will a car with my setup be OK on it? Is it a fast flowing track suitable for high HP cars or is it for responsive cars? and what spring rates/geometry settings would be good there? Oh and also what club do i join or who do i speak to i am mainly just interesting in time attack?

Cheer

Benny

QR more than any other track around here is suitable for big hp cars Ben, Lots of straights and few corners make it ideal for horsepower.

My advice for what its worth would be to turn the power down and hold off on the aero till you sort out the mechanical grip.

Aero cover up setup issues that you will find difficult to detect once you add a heap of down force. Dont try and set lap records on your first outing. Feel your way in to it and keep making changes untill you feel the car has reached its (and your) potential with that setup then start adding aero and or turning up the wick pregressively.

Look forward to seeing you and that animal of a car down here. be sure to let us know when it happens.

[Nur33]

Ah k cheers yeah that's pretty much what the old man said to me lol. I'm not expecting to break records first go, cool if i could but. I understand where you are coming from with having aero aids straight up makes sense fairly clearly, need to feel the car's natural grip first get the suspension working to the best of its ability, its gonna take some learning no doubt about it, if i suck in the corners i'll just have to make up for it in the straight away's . Can't wait to go for a strap around the track in it, main focus this year will be drags as we gotta get as much testing in before Jambo in September fingers crossed 8sec pass is acquired by then i should have collected all the parts i need to convert it to track monster..

[kingscorp]

Smaller turbo like a TO4z, shit thats still a massive turbo. If you have any lag it will be slow. Circuit racing is not about peak power, its about getting in and out of corners as fast as possible. If you have to wait for power you are no mans land.

I would think a GT35 or similar is more than ample.

Forget the A048's, they would have to be worst (slowest) R Comp tyre in Australia. And only becasue you cant get medium compound in anything over 16". So for 17" and over rims your only choice will be medium hard (MH), they are ok when new for the first 2 laps then fall off big time, after 3 sesions they will be as hard as truck tyres.

Go for Yokohama AO50 or Bridgeston RE55.

[badhairdave]

Is it QR that's really touchy about noise? Wouldn't want to trailer it 1000km to get booted off during the first session.

[Nur33]

Smaller turbo like a TO4z, shit thats still a massive turbo. If you have any lag it will be slow. Circuit racing is not about peak power, its about getting in and out of corners as fast as possible. If you have to wait for power you are no mans land.

I would think a GT35 or similar is more than ample.

Forget the A048's, they would have to be worst (slowest) R Comp tyre in Australia. And only becasue you cant get medium compound in anything over 16". So for 17" and over rims your only choice will be medium hard (MH), they are ok when new for the first 2 laps then fall off big time, after 3 sesions they will be as hard as truck tyres.

Go for Yokohama AO50 or Bridgeston RE55.

I think a HKS T04Z with a A/R 0.61 or 0.81 housing will be fairly responsive on my fully built RB27 considering the HKS T62R A/R 1.20 starts making boost at 5500rpm and hits full boost a bit before 7000rpm but just gonna have to do some more research, i'm only doing this for a bit of fun not gonna get super serious with it unless it does ok times. As for the tires i was only gonna use the A048's as i can get them pretty cheap but now that you have said that i might have to re-think the tire situation. Cheers

[Nur33]

Is it QR that's really touchy about noise? Wouldn't want to trailer it 1000km to get booted off during the first session.

I don't think QR has a noise limit seeing as Willowbank Raceway is next door I know lakeside has noise restriction.

[si]

Is it QR that's really touchy about noise? Wouldn't want to trailer it 1000km to get booted off during the first session.

If your car is quieter than a Super Hornet you should be right. QR is in the buffer zone for the RAAF base so there aren't any real restrictions. Lakeside is where the noise restrictions are.

[Nur33]

Cool

[Marlin]

i'm only doing this for a bit of fun not gonna get super serious with it unless it does ok times. []http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif[/img]

Haha, superb

[Nur33]

Hey does anyone know all the original specs for a standard R32 GTR like Castor,Camber and Toe plus the wheel track measurements.

[kingscorp]

Might be best to work out what RPM you will be exiting the corner. MY FD Racecar comes on at 4000rpm and full boost by 4800rpm and its a tad laggy for some tracks.

I drove a RB30/25 racecar last year, it has a GT35 (not sure of the exhaust housing size) It was pretty good, but it had a dog box with custom ratios, that helps!

ash

[Nur33]

Yeah ash i really need to get to Queensland Raceway as soon as possible just to get a feel of things and work out what setup will be best for me. Everyone has a different definition of lag and people have different styles of driving so the only way to do it is by trial and error. With drag season just about to start i wont be able to get the car to the track as much as i would like, main goal at the moment is to get this 8 second pass in the bag and then my brother and I will be happy and then set the focus on the track work. I am aiming for full boost in the 4500-5000rpm range i think that will be acceptable as the engine does rev quite quickly.

[kingscorp]

Sounds like your onto ut

Good luck with the 8 second pass, thats moving hey

Ash

[Nur33]

Cheers

Should have the strain gauge/ ignition cut shifter in the next week or 2, will be interesting to see how that turns out.

[ordinary]

Hey does anyone know all the original specs for a standard R32 GTR like Castor,Camber and Toe plus the wheel track measurements.

That goes for all R32-33-34 GTRs!

I run Racepace Motorsport modified Cusco front camber arms, Cusco front castor arms and left the rear all stock. the key is not too lower it too much, just enough that you have -1.75 to -2 degress rear camber and then set the front on full neg (around -3.5 degrees) on the Cusco suckers and play with heights to get it all even.

As for spring rates I had R8/R4 kg/mm on Tein SS but that's all coming out for Racepace Motorsport revalved Tein RA's with F10/R6 kg/mm springs. Cost is around $3500 but they are serious coilovers and I can't wait to drive the car with these in! Oh this is heaps cheaper than the RS option you are talkign about though...

And my rear swaybar is stock... front is a Whiteline adjustable item, again specified by Racepace

[stig0000]

im getting full boost around 3500-4000rpm and that is to lagie for QR, yes I don't have 1000hp but 400hp and I still have to much lag, I got 2860-7s

the evo's that im trying to beat have next to no lag at all, and it tells out of the slower corners,

[djr81]

That goes for all R32-33-34 GTRs!

I run Racepace Motorsport modified Cusco front camber arms, Cusco front castor arms and left the rear all stock. the key is not too lower it too much, just enough that you have -1.75 to -2 degress rear camber and then set the front on full neg (around -3.5 degrees) on the Cusco suckers and play with heights to get it all even.

As for spring rates I had R8/R4 kg/mm on Tein SS but that's all coming out for Racepace Motorsport revalved Tein RA's with F10/R6 kg/mm springs. Cost is around $3500 but they are serious coilovers and I can't wait to drive the car with these in! Oh this is heaps cheaper than the RS option you are talkign about though...

And my rear swaybar is stock... front is a Whiteline adjustable item, again specified by Racepace

Aside from bulk horsepower the thing you need with a GTR is to try and kill the understeer. If you look at the Nismo spring rates for the 33's etc the rears are HARDER than the fronts - but not the 32's. The major difference being the AWD system reaction. Obviously there is a trade off with traction but this can be handled (In part atleast) with an ATTESSA controller. Other than that run loads of neg camber on the front and as little as you can on the rear. Same for sway bars. Fat as on the back and little on the front. It is mostly about getting the front to grip so you can get on the power.

Oh and QR is bumpy as all hell so make sure you have good travel and dont go ape shit with spring rates as it will rattle the fillings out of your teeth.

Edited August 7, 2013 by djr81

[bri73y]

Tried pm'ing you DJR81

I remember reading somewhere how you changed your upper links to the Nismo item and were happy with the geometry changes.

What I don't remember was if you said what upper arm you use ??

I've used the UAS arms but they are ordinary for bump steer and geometry changes when under load.

What do you recommend ??

thanks

John

[djr81]

Tried pm'ing you DJR81

I remember reading somewhere how you changed your upper links to the Nismo item and were happy with the geometry changes.

What I don't remember was if you said what upper arm you use ??

I've used the UAS arms but they are ordinary for bump steer and geometry changes when under load.

What do you recommend ??

thanks

John

Yeah, sorry it was full again.

My upper arms are a backyard build - err, sorry a professionally engineered custom fabricated component. I did this because I couldnt find anything for sale that I was happy with.

Basically it is two ends bored out of pipe (32NB extra strong or double extra strong, cant remember which but an orphan of a size) to accomodate a bush kit (Whiteline) and a slightly shorter RHS arm (50x25 or thereabouts) with the forward offset (ie how far the outside bush is ahead of the inside) not much different to stock (The Cusco one is alot further forward, for example). This is for castor, obviously.

For what it is worth the Nismo upper arm mounting bracket stopped the car from destroying the outer bush every track day - so there must be something in the stock geometry that relies heavilly on the castor rod bush. Replacing the castor rod bush with a rose joint fries the outer arm bush and to me, felt like it bound up the suspension to a degree.

So the gain I found was in freeing up the geometry and in improving travel by using an aftermarket strut top inplace of the standard Nissan ones. I still need more travel anyway.

I have never got into the graphs etc for the suspension so cant speak to roll centres and camber compensation in roll. But most track GTR's run high suspension rates so maybe they are trying to compensate for geometry issues?

This is the difference between the Nismo and Nissan mount for the arm locator holes. Some people are happy to weld & redrill but I didnt have a start point other than to buy the Nismo package - which was fine because I wanted the LCA anyway.