M35 Funny Turbo Sound

[NickM91]

Things are looking as though I'll go down the hi flow route. Will keep you posted.

Didn't realise how frustrating not having a car is!!!

[leetom]

not having a dig at 35's but a lot seem to be having turbo issues.

[slippylotion]

Yeah seems a bit of a problem with them.

To the guys that have had their M35 turbo blow, are the turbos dying due to bearing failure from oil supy issues or the ceramic turbine wheel coming apart then leading onto shaft/bearing failure?

[Jetwreck]

Oil supply and poor servicing IMO. Coupled with the senario of it being a warranty item in Japan. Remember they run a lot more psi standard than the c34's. After they are rebuilt I haven't heard if any other turbo issues

Edited February 17, 2012 by Jetwreck

[iamhe77]

I don't think mine was either an oil supply nor servicing issue. My exhaust wheel just decided to part ways with the rest of the unit and was found in the cat, but yes it seems to be a recurring issue with M35's.

It's also a good excuse to start modifying (was the first mod on my old Stag lol). I'd be interested to see how long the stock turbo would last with an aftermarket dump and exhaust.

Exhaust restriction is one of the main culprits IMO

[slippylotion]

My thoughts are on the extra boost the M35 runs and shitty factory dump pipe causing excess heat and shaft speed on the turbine wheel.

I currently have an a/market dump and soon to add a front pipe with 200cpsi cat and keep the stock cat back, unless I come across a factory option Nismo system. Will be interesting how long my turbo will last. I oil change every 5000km and rarely give it any stick. Having said that, last week I relived my younger years by going up against a VE SS manual and VZ SS auto. Left the VZ a good 3 cars behind and the VE sat side by side. Boy did he look shocked ?. I didn't stall it up for either.

Edited February 17, 2012 by slippylotion

[NickM91]

Yeah well not sure on the exact cause of why mine failed but the bearings were rooted and I think a bit of damage to the impeller.

So it's all getting replaced.

Anyway hopefully it will be back in car soon! What sort of a difference does the hiflow make? I've searched a bit for info but am yet to find much. Keeping in mind that everything else just about on the car is stock.

Will probably be looking at Jetwreck's banjo bolt mod when it's done to hopefully eliminate a but of potential for future issues.

Cheers

Nick

[slippylotion]

That banjo bolt mod will depend on the type of core that will be fitted. I would seek advice from the turbo builder on this.

[ironpaw]

not having a dig at 35's but a lot seem to be having turbo issues.

I've never had any issue with mine...

then again I preempted it by replacing the stock unit

[scotty nm35]

We have been over this before, if the oil supply stops, the rear bearing will fail fairly quickly. Definitely check the banjo if you hear the common jet turbine noise and get ready for a rebuild.

A highflow will do bugger all for the power output without tuning the ecu. All you will gain is lag unfortunately.

[PN-Mad]

HKS make a filter- I have one in the kit that I did. Just goes in line with the braided lines. It is able to be taken apart and cleaned. The Japanese instructions that came with it said you clean every 5000kms. Don't know if worth it, but just putting it out there.

[scotty nm35]

I run a similar proflow one but it wont fit with the factory hard line of course.

The banjo that gets blocked is in the block anyway, no point filtering the oil afterward.

[PN-Mad]

I has no Banjo... didn't know where it was

[NickM91]

I'm about ready for my car back... Going on a month at a mechanic recommended by my warranty provider. Getting part of costs covered.

I think the turbo was or is getting rebuilt by gcg.

Apparently there is only one mechanic at this workshop that knows how to put a turbo in and he's on holidays, only took him 8 hours because every bolt under there was stripped already... And quoted me on 8 hours getting it back in, yeah right.

Anyway this update should have come 3 weeks ago... But alas here it is, no need to say I'm a bit over it!

[Aegats]

Keep us informed.

[ClassOne]

Nagoya eh? Your car had 50-65000 k's when you bought it then....

any reason for this comment? looking at getting an M35 through them...

[Daleo]

any reason for this comment? looking at getting an M35 through them...

Lets just say that some of their cars "coincidentally" have been known to have similar mileages; around the 50-65 000km area.

That's not to say you won't get a good one; I bought mine from them and it had 39 000km (which I do believe to be fairly genuine). It's been basically perfect.

Just make sure you see the original Japanese auction sheets PRIOR to laying any cash on the line. As with any sale, if it doesn't smell right; walk away.

Alex was great to deal with, but Dmitriy; not so much. Made a lot of promises, (all promises had been made via email) and then promptly forgot about them when it was time to deliver, Alex sorted most of it out.

I believe Dmitriy has since moved on, and is still on form...

All car yards will have bad stories; some due to genuine issues, some due to unrealistic expectations. There are a lot of good stories too, but people make the most noise when they feel they have been wronged.

Build a relationship with the dealer and I believe they will take care of you.

If you don't like the way you are treated in the beginning; I don't believe things will improve down the track, if you have an issue.

Edited March 15, 2012 by Daleo

[ClassOne]

yeah no worries, ive been speaking to a bloke named cody, really nice dude... just wanted to check in about that comment, this one has 43xxx on it, will ask to see the original JP auction paperwork.

Thanks for your help dale

[PN-Mad]

Thread Jack.

Remember, cars can get a "hair cut" before they even make it to auction. So look for the tell tail signs of higher Kms- wear on gear sticks, steering wheels, carpets, rubber bushes under the car, and generally scruffier condition. Rust / corrosion (more than normal) on bolts and things under the car means a car thats come from a snow area with salted roads.

If in doubt, get an independent mechanical check over.

[slippylotion]

The Japanese de reg paper is what you want to see. That has the last 3 inspection dates and km recordings. Just make sure you see the original certificate and not a photo copy of the original.

Edited March 15, 2012 by slippylotion