300Kw Unopened 25 Club...

[Hanaldo]

How can you people get such good fuel economy with 300ish rwkw? My daily driver R34 200rwkw ALWAYS gets 19-20L/100kms, it is seriously REALLY f*ked. My right foot is not too bad, just the ocassional squirt to 5-7k rpms in 1st, 2nd and 3rd lasting less than 10 seconds.

The times when people are ACTUALLY making 300rwkw, they aren't getting good economy. When you're putting around town off boost and the engine is only producing around 80rwhp, that's when you get decent enough economy. The last time I was on the track with my old G2 setup, I only got 215km's to a full tank. That included the 30-odd km drive from my house to the track.

[AngryRB]

How can you people get such good fuel economy with 300ish rwkw? My daily driver R34 200rwkw ALWAYS gets 19-20L/100kms, it is seriously REALLY f*ked. My right foot is not too bad, just the ocassional squirt to 5-7k rpms in 1st, 2nd and 3rd lasting less than 10 seconds.

holy moley.. ya car has drinking problems.

Edited July 3, 2012 by SliverS2

[gotRICE?]

My stock ECU in my R33 got pathetic economy once i started modding it. Stock it was fine.. once the exhaust/decat/fmic/boost went on/up it turned pear shaped.

I got a Link G4 in it with the stock turbo tuned and it returned it to more sensible levels. 450-500km a tank. With the GT30 i get better economy, 500-550 as i mentioned. But have spent ALOT of hours logging, reviewing logs, and fine tuning it to be the best it can.

And when i say I spent the time.. i mean i drove around having fun while Lithium crunched numbers

[WMDC35]

How can you people get such good fuel economy with 300ish rwkw? My daily driver R34 200rwkw ALWAYS gets 19-20L/100kms, it is seriously REALLY f*ked. My right foot is not too bad, just the ocassional squirt to 5-7k rpms in 1st, 2nd and 3rd lasting less than 10 seconds.

stock turbo is on boost alot more just cruising around, a well tuned car with 300 prob uses less than a stock de auto if you drive nicely, but it's not for that

[Rolls]

I get around 14.5L with new injectors and a highflow, that is driving to work and some decent driving. If I literally only drive to work (10kms each way) the car barely even gets warm and I get as bad as 17-18L/100km as it is all below 60kph on cold start driving.

How can you people get such good fuel economy with 300ish rwkw? My daily driver R34 200rwkw ALWAYS gets 19-20L/100kms, it is seriously REALLY f*ked. My right foot is not too bad, just the ocassional squirt to 5-7k rpms in 1st, 2nd and 3rd lasting less than 10 seconds.

Issues like broken O2 sensor, coolant temp tensor will make it run richer than ti shoulder, so can dirty AFM, air leaks in the system so you are running richer, mods like exhaust/intake/turbo with no retune will all make the car run richer.

Edited July 3, 2012 by Rolls

[rondofj]

If I literally only drive to work (10kms each way) the car barely even gets warm and I get as bad as 17-18L/100km as it is all below 60kph on cold start driving.

That is how most or 80% of my driving is done, below 60/cold start - to and fro work 4kms each way. Is that my problem? New O2 sensor btw, no difference, but highway kms are noticeably better around 16-17L/100kms

[Lithium]

It'll totally be to do with you constantly driving short distances with a cold motor, not really any way of getting around that unfortunately.

[GTScotT]

Guys just so you know that sort of thing is really bad for the longevity of your motor. Very harsh conditions they were never designed to endure.

[AngryRB]

get a posty bike for the 4km runs and do some jumps over the pot holes lol

[Lithium]

Very good point, what the hell are you doing bothering with a car for 4km commutes!!?? With that fuel consumption you could get yourself a nice road bike with your gas money and get in 20 minutes or so of exercise a day

[rondofj]

Very good point, what the hell are you doing bothering with a car for 4km commutes!!?? With that fuel consumption you could get yourself a nice road bike with your gas money and get in 20 minutes or so of exercise a day

I have the option of a bus that stops right at the door but would rather the R34 even though I gotta pay for it, call that obssession over common sense lol..

[GTScotT]

For Ron and others, the motors tolerances are designed to be optimal when at operating temperature. Meaning there is more wear when cold, especially under higher load. The oil is not flowing as well when cold and is not designed to protect the motor as well when cold. The excess fuel (shown in poor consumption) ends up in the oil and breaks it down, meaning shorter service intervals and poorer protection properties and therefore extra wear on the motor.

Leave the Skylines at home boys, unless there are teenage girls working in your office teenage girls love skylines, come 22 though and they think its very immature you still own one. True story.

[Rolls]

For Ron and others, the motors tolerances are designed to be optimal when at operating temperature. Meaning there is more wear when cold, especially under higher load. The oil is not flowing as well when cold and is not designed to protect the motor as well when cold. The excess fuel (shown in poor consumption) ends up in the oil and breaks it down, meaning shorter service intervals and poorer protection properties and therefore extra wear on the motor.

Leave the Skylines at home boys, unless there are teenage girls working in your office teenage girls love skylines, come 22 though and they think its very immature you still own one. True story.

It is still cheaper for me to drive the skyline 10kms to work than it is to register, insure and drive my $400 charade to work.

Plus I put a low km neo motor in it with very low kms, so I'll either blow it up from something unrelated or sell it well before it dies from old age.

I will be doing just as many cold starts as you guys driving further to work, the car will be traveling just as many kms whilst cold and not warmed up, it just won't be travelling as many kms total. So I fail to see how it is any worse than driving it longer distances providing I change the oil more regularly.

For example you live 25kms from work, thats 520 cold starts and 13,000kms a year of wear and tear, if I live 5kms from work that is 520 cold starts and 2600kms a year, so I'll be spending just as much time under cold start, but travelling less kms total, I'd argue I would put less wear and tear on my motor than you will be!

So driving it cold may put more wear and tear per km, but over a 10 year span it will still put less wear and tear on the motor than driving it further.

Edited July 3, 2012 by Rolls

[rondofj]

aaaarrrrghhhh confoooosed ! !

[Mitcho_7]

It is still cheaper for me to drive the skyline 10kms to work than it is to register, insure and drive my $400 charade to work.

Plus I put a low km neo motor in it with very low kms, so I'll either blow it up from something unrelated or sell it well before it dies from old age.

I will be doing just as many cold starts as you guys driving further to work, the car will be traveling just as many kms whilst cold and not warmed up, it just won't be travelling as many kms total. So I fail to see how it is any worse than driving it longer distances providing I change the oil more regularly.

For example you live 25kms from work, thats 520 cold starts and 13,000kms a year of wear and tear, if I live 5kms from work that is 520 cold starts and 2600kms a year, so I'll be spending just as much time under cold start, but travelling less kms total, I'd argue I would put less wear and tear on my motor than you will be!

So driving it cold may put more wear and tear per km, but over a 10 year span it will still put less wear and tear on the motor than driving it further.

Sounds about right to me

[34GeeTeeTee]

Leave the Skylines at home boys, unless there are teenage girls working in your office teenage girls love skylines, come 22 though and they think its very immature you still own one. True story.

Chick that served me at Maccas this morning = "I love your car"

She was probably 18............ Officer

So with that established, no-one cares how much fuel you consume, how much traction you have, its all about the bitchezz?

On another note, SO happy with the car!

[AngryRB]

can you do some in car footage thru the gears? be keen to see how it reacts under throttle...

[34GeeTeeTee]

can you do some in car footage thru the gears? be keen to see how it reacts under throttle...

I can't at the moment as I can't "get through gears"

With some better rubber and a "private road" I may be able too, at the moment it just snaps onto boost and overpowers the crap tyres... It's a laugh

[AngryRB]

what about third gear from 3000rpm on a good road, but i know what you mean, third is my only gear that will hold power down, and i can feel its just holding on too.

[gotRICE?]

what about third gear from 3000rpm on a good road, but i know what you mean, third is my only gear that will hold power down, and i can feel its just holding on too.

If your talking about the car listed in your sig, you have shit tires! LOL!

Mine will hold all the way through second gear, and if theres a fat ass in the back it will be not to bad in 1st either (if i have a full car, 1st gear from 1500rpm will hold all the way through. Pretty neat feeling actually.) 255/17 Adrenaline. 280-300odd dyno dependant killerwasps. GT30 .82 @ 17psi.