300Kw Unopened 25 Club...

[ARTZ]

Omg Dave you can be fussy, i've seen it before and it looks fine..lol

Either way that's a reasonable price..Will put on top of my want list

[DaveO74]

Does running nitrogen make much difference?? Bit off topic now but this intrigued me.

I think so, but it could be a placebo effect. They just tend to feel better IMO and nitrogen dosent expand anywhere near what air does so pressures stay pretty consistent on a track day.

Omg Dave you can be fussy, i've seen it before and it looks fine..lol

Either way that's a reasonable price..Will put on top of my want list

Nah not fussy, just a mild case of OCD.........I mean attention to detail lol

[DVS JEZ]

I imagine that would only be possible if boost was being controlled by the Haltech? With boost being controlled separately by the HKS EVC, it's not going to do it automatically.

This^^^

Sell the hks evc and get a simple mac valve. Setup the boost control over ethanol percentage so can leave it on high boost and the haltech will lower the boost accordingly.

Same for low boost.

Will also stop ur boost dropping off.

One of the only boost controllers i dislike is the hkc evc's.

[AngryRB]

can someone tell me who has an external gate, are you running 2 springs inside the wastegate or just the one? just wondering if that helps with the boost control or bringing it on sooner?

[Jap_star]

im running 2, but i dont think it will make a difference. the new tial gates can run up to 4 or 5

[Hanaldo]

I've got 2 as well. It doesn't do anything with regards to controlling boost, it just gives you your target gate pressure. My target gate pressure was 14psi, so I've got two 7psi springs.

[WYTSKY]

believe I have a single 14psi one and using the gizzmo to bring boost on a bit earlier and put it up to 18-19psi

[ARTZ]

I got 3 springs @ 14psi...ecu controls it

[Piggaz]

One of the only boost controllers i dislike is the hkc evc's.

Care to expand on this mate? You get some people wanting them to be the mother of their children and others hating them.

[R31Nismoid]

The KU36's have a treadwear of 180, the RSR's are 140. So not a huge difference. I know my KU36's lasted about 1 track day and maybe 8000km's, so they don't last either.

It's not just the treadwear indicator that you need to worry about in terms of grip. Sidewall also plays a massive part, hence the AD08s are as good as they are.

I had RSR's, they'd done 3-4 track days before i sold them (and rims) to a mate, with a good 3,000kms on the street. Hardly any tread missing at all...

Don't KU36s last longer than RSR though? I know RSR is a more grippy tyre but they really don't last.

As i said RSR's last fine.

I got 10,000kms out of a 2nd hand set of AD08s and did a LOT of hill runs. Ontop of that did maybe 3-4 skidpan/motorkhana days, 4WD donuts on 3 occasions, 100+ launches - you name it I did it.

All of this in the HMAS GTR which has many more KGs than lighter RWD brothers and you'd think would chew tyres even faster.

End of the day if you are killing a set of tyres in 10 laps on a single circuit day, you need to learn how to drive and not lock up under brakes. You should get 6-10 track days out of a set + some road KM's without any drama in the world.

Have heard a few complaints about 36s glad I didn't buy them ..31s seem to be a better tyre for the money by all accounts..

Nittos just over 400$ for 255/17s pretty good value and look more like a track tyre than street..whT are they like in the wet ?

Will either get these or splurge on the yokos

For $400 in 17" - you are well into AD08 territory... They are miles better than a KU36 and a RSR - provided you have the suspension/grip to complement them and make them work for you as it's not just tyres that effect grip.

Even stone cold i could tell the difference when i had AD08s on or RSRs

They also work better at different pressures. I was down to around 30-32psi on AD08 for them to be at thier fastest. The car felt like it was quite loose (compared to 32-34psi i was using earlier), but the lap times were better (track battle @ thunderdome) so ye... I'd been pretty consistent over 2 days and only play with pressures in the last 2 sessions and then noticed the times dropping.

[DVS JEZ]

Care to expand on this mate? You get some people wanting them to be the mother of their children and others hating them.

They work well but there are little niggly things when first setting them up that can be a pain in the butt.

I think the main reason i dislike 1 was a poor wastegate setup. Car is coming back for a external gate to remove the small tomei internal.

[SimonR32]

It's not just the treadwear indicator that you need to worry about in terms of grip. Sidewall also plays a massive part, hence the AD08s are as good as they are.

I had RSR's, they'd done 3-4 track days before i sold them (and rims) to a mate, with a good 3,000kms on the street. Hardly any tread missing at all...

As i said RSR's last fine.

I got 10,000kms out of a 2nd hand set of AD08s and did a LOT of hill runs. Ontop of that did maybe 3-4 skidpan/motorkhana days, 4WD donuts on 3 occasions, 100+ launches - you name it I did it.

All of this in the HMAS GTR which has many more KGs than lighter RWD brothers and you'd think would chew tyres even faster.

End of the day if you are killing a set of tyres in 10 laps on a single circuit day, you need to learn how to drive and not lock up under brakes. You should get 6-10 track days out of a set + some road KM's without any drama in the world.

For $400 in 17" - you are well into AD08 territory... They are miles better than a KU36 and a RSR - provided you have the suspension/grip to complement them and make them work for you as it's not just tyres that effect grip.

Even stone cold i could tell the difference when i had AD08s on or RSRs

They also work better at different pressures. I was down to around 30-32psi on AD08 for them to be at thier fastest. The car felt like it was quite loose (compared to 32-34psi i was using earlier), but the lap times were better (track battle @ thunderdome) so ye... I'd been pretty consistent over 2 days and only play with pressures in the last 2 sessions and then noticed the times dropping.

I agree AD08's are amazing tyres, they do however get very slippery once they start getting overheated when pushed fairly hard, which is where a real r-comp would be much better. But for half the price you would never complain

Edited July 12, 2012 by SimonR32

[DaveO74]

Yeah gave me a bit of a fright the first time it happened lol

[Mick_o]

Anybody tried the nitto invo's before??? Just got myself a set yesterday.

[Hanaldo]

End of the day if you are killing a set of tyres in 10 laps on a single circuit day, you need to learn how to drive and not lock up under brakes. You should get 6-10 track days out of a set + some road KM's without any drama in the world.

This is me in a nutshell

On that last track day I did with those tyres I was really experimenting though, trying to see how late I could brake, how hard I could accelerate, how much speed I could carry through the corners, etc. As a result I lost it a number of times. Was one hell of a day though

[R31Nismoid]

I agree AD08's are amazing tyres, they do however get very slippery once they start getting overheated when pushed fairly hard, which is where a real r-comp would be much better. But for half the price you would never complain

Totally agree the R-Comp would still be miles better but they let me compete in street class in a few events and I was still faster than EVO's on R-comps

I never got them to a slippery point - I mean the car was getting skaty, but it was doing that from the first lap. Great tyre - highly recommend springing the extra

[Rolls]

As i said RSR's last fine.

How would you compare them to KU36 in terms of life and grip?

I have RSR at the moment and they have lasted almost 10,000kms but the grip was substantially reduced after ~5000km

[Mick_o]

Im not sure how much tyre choice has to do with it.

i remember speaking to a few great minds about that sort of thing who gave me great insight. from memory, manufacturers like porsche use wider tyres to get the same levels of grip with a better wear ratio. the concept behind that is in the weight of the car over the area of tyre.

the smaller the tyre is the more force it will have per unit of area. so a skinny tyre will have more pressure applied per square inch than a wider tyre.

i also read that wider tyres can give the illusion of more grip by needing more energy to turn and make lose grip. generally the skinnier tyres and wheels were seen as more efficient which is why in the early days of F1 they would run tiny tyres.

nowadays we are always pushing the boundaries with speed and need wider stuff to distrubute the wear and need less changes in a single race.

annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnddddd traction @ 300kw discussion BEGIN:

Well i went from spinning my 255 nankangs in 1st 2nd and 3rd gears with a kaaz 2 way until today when i threw on a set of nitto invos it only spins a little bit in 1st and 2nd now but these tyres are almost silent whilst breaking traction CRAZY only drove them bout 15km home and im VERY impressed so far

Going for a drive in the hills tomorrow to see how they are in the twisties

[owenliberts]

WOOO! im a member

[34GeeTeeTee]

Awesome result Owen