Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what did you do to them excatly? id love some pics hahaha the setup looks the same as a r33 one thats why were baffled at the problem

Drilled the plastic factory 90 out and replaced with a speedflow fitting... Have pics but no idea where, found it for another 34 owner the other day but i think it was on FB

I have had no issues maxing an e85 Walbro without drilling or modifying the fuel tank at all.

Well that is a good sign... But i doubt the filter is a restriction as i run the paper type and have no issues!

Hey guys,

This is a neat little club going on here and I've decided I would like to join it!

Need a little advise before I get there though. Obviously number 1 issue for most people is money, so I have 15K to achieve my 300kw dream (including price of car)

I've found an r32 with S1 Rb25 conversion with following mods already on it

Engine:

HKS EVC 3

Nistune ECU

Front Mount I/C with hard piping kit
3" Turbo back exhaust, high flow cat
Walbro 255lph in tank fuel pump

Gearbox:

RB25DET Gearbox
Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch
Custom Tailshaft to suit new gearbox
Standard Differential

Suspension / Handling:
BC BR Coilovers
Cusco Fixed Upper Camber Arms -3 deg
Hardrace adjustable Rear camber arms
Hardrace adjustable Rear traction rods
Rear Adjustable toe arms with Lock bar
Front R34 GTR disk brake upgrade

Price of car is gonna set me back (9-10K based on negotiations and is also the reason for this exercise to see if buying the car is worth it for my goals)

Based on what the car has I think it covers all the odds and ends that aren't directly related to power but is needed anyway, so the rest of my budget can go on go fast bits

With 5/6K left my shopping list to get me to 300kw is:

GT3076r low mount kit - $3200 (could go GTX instead for $200 more...undecided)

Xspurt 1000cc injectors - $775 (same price as 750's, figure why not)

Z32 AFM - $150 - $200

Turbo Smart FPR 800 - $270

Tuning = $1000 (guessing)

Total = $5500

I don't think any of that is over complicated to install myself but have obviously budgeted for professional tuning.

Now...is there any holes in my plan, anything that will have my hopes and dreams come crashing down on me? I have read a good chunk of this thread and based on other results I don't think I would be far off.

I have not purchased or made a final decision on this particular car, so if this combo will not work I will explore other options, so suggestions are welcome

I have been through the rb25 turbo thread and this one so I know there is plenty of info out there, i'm not trying to get someone to do the work for me, but it would be nice to get an outside opinion on my plans to either set my mind a bit more at ease or prevent me from making a mistake.

Thanks!

I wouldn't know... I fell short of the 400 mark by 9 little bastard wasps :P

Why the stainless fuel filter? I run paper filters and they are not a restriction is setup correctly?

Closer than me, sprung an oil leak last dyno day, stopped at 365 due to starting to make too much of a mess :whistling:

Might have to go again, still on 98e10 but should be able to wind some more out of it :D

Edited by WMDC35

Well that is a good sign... But i doubt the filter is a restriction as i run the paper type and have no issues!

Perhaps the brand or part number was different, but both times I have seen it on 34's the filter was an issue. Probably just blocked with gunk, but they were changed recently...

At least the tank setup is good for 430 or more kw in the 33 and 34.

I have seen a couple max out, base pressure and boost pressure were pretty close though I think. 40 psi base with 30 psi boost. You could get a bit more out of them by dropping the base pressure a little.

You should see at least 400kw, these maxed at 430 and 450.

I have not purchased or made a final decision on this particular car, so if this combo will not work I will explore other options, so suggestions are welcome

I have been through the rb25 turbo thread and this one so I know there is plenty of info out there, i'm not trying to get someone to do the work for me, but it would be nice to get an outside opinion on my plans to either set my mind a bit more at ease or prevent me from making a mistake.

Thanks!

Just buy a car with 300rwkw already, if you do buy this car buy a $900 highflow instead, will save you getting defected (you will), and when you are $2k short due to a bunch of things breaking that you didn't expect you will be able to afford them. Just stuff like tyres, random broken stuff, trust me you will get caught out.

Wise words.

Remember 300rwkw is useless without good Diff/clutch/tyres

300rwkw can be quite a handful if the car isn't set up properly.

Trouble is that everyone can have 300 pretty easily on a relatively stock car

Or buy an awd base to begin with if you want traction. ;)

:yes: Once i got my suspension and diff all sorted the car was a lot more fun to drive! And a lot quicker too!

FYP. :P

:laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I buy my wheel cleaner in 4 litre bottles now. Euro brakes are brutal
    • Sounds like it may all just be some baseless outrage stoked by the carexplore guy? As in the linked social media outrage on facebook just goes back to carexplore as a source again. Further shown by the council response that nothing actually has changed: "The Private Land Use Permit has been part of the Casey Community Local Law for a number of years. It's important to clarify that this permit is not new, and no changes have been made to the permit or the Local Law in relation to the permit." The full council response in Prank's link sounds reasonable to me. Saying that as someone who neither lives there nor has a front yard to call their own  
    • Clutch hydraulics are also all good, looks like a brand new slave cylinder and everything bled up well. No idea what the actual clutch is, and I don't intend to pull the box off on the floor to find out, so unless we have trouble on the dyno or at shakedown that will remain a mystery for the new owner
    • Front brakes are G4 8 pot calipers over 330mm discs with braided lines. Everything looks good, pretty sure these are off my old 350. Pads are brand new and judging from gold colour are Winmax which is what I also run on my race car, Neil and I both sourced brake stuff from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney who really knows his stuff Everything has bled up nicely with all new Motul RBF600 fluid, there were 2 loose hard line connections and the calipers were new on the car so I ended up doing it 3 times but it is perfect now
    • So, starting with the rear brakes. They look like standard R33 GTST, and will need new pads shortly (less than 5mm material, probably only 1 day left). The slotted discs (probably DBA) are near new at 18.01mm and the lines are braided
×
×
  • Create New...