Jump to content
SAU Community

300Kw Unopened 25 Club...


Recommended Posts

man those R34 NEO motors are built like german nazi tanks lol

it seems like it's more economical to drop in a R34 NEO motor if a R33 RB25DET motor ever carks it

They tend to hold together pretty well! Ill admit mine has had a hard life too! Its been overheated (Well got warm but Haltech shut it down) and also had a LOT of fuel dramas which caused all sorts of bad AFRs early days... I try to keep it off the limiter but it still gets spun to just over 8000rpm when up it haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Funny thing is I'm the one doing all the work. Just a matter of putting in the effort after working all day on shitbox cars (skoda). Sometimes all you wana do is sit on the couch and not move lol. Will be tuned within the month though

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I try to keep it off the limiter but it still gets spun to just over 8000rpm when up it haha

I would like to be able to say the same. But i give mine a fairly hard time. Seen 2 track days and lots of limiter, although mine is set at 7450 from memory not 8000 haha.

Even driving it very hard, no blowby AT ALL! or any oil/fluid leaks, just running the standard nissan setup. ie linked rocker covers and then a hose to the intake after the AFM.

The thing i am most impressed with is its off boost driveability though, it is insane! Put your foot down in any gear and it just accelerates, even crusing at 100 in 5th, half throttle and it just accelerates to 120 easily all while off boost!

I am certainly very impressed with the NEO!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unfortunately mines dropped cylinder 5 :( flaming mongrel!! Im not sure what caused it, had plenty of vacuum leak drama from the plenum in past year and an accidental overboost of 25psi in third, all cylinders 155-160 and number 5 is 60..goes upto 200 with some oil squirted in.

rebore and forgies n rings or drop a stocky? thoughts?

Edited by AngryRB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

that was the plan, but then discovered the dropped cylinder and now thinking ill just have another crack at it, will be a 300kw and ethanol , keep it very simple this time with a 0.63internal rear

Edited by AngryRB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unfortunately mines dropped cylinder 5 :( flaming mongrel!! Im not sure what caused it, had plenty of vacuum leak drama from the plenum in past year and an accidental overboost of 25psi in third, all cylinders 155-160 and number 5 is 60..goes upto 200 with some oil squirted in.

rebore and forgies n rings or drop a stocky? thoughts?

forgies...and 500kws...:P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have 2 mates that had 300rwkw 25's for the same time I did, one drivin like mine, the other PUNISHED. both of theirs were built motors from very well reputed workshops, and both of them are on their 3rd motor now. while mine was on it's second when I sold it

with these power figures its a lottery either way, so i'd just got another stocker personally.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

car is dedicated E85, its a big decision, having thoughts of running a higher comp ratio of mid to high 9s, gt3076 with .63 rear internal, goal is driving on streets and drags with reducing lag and making it feel very punchy on the street. 300-320kw max

stocker- solid from factory but still old and 155av comps..

rebuild- new pistons/rings ( possibly forged) and have 180-200 comp = more grunt and earlier boost for the streets

much simpler to just drop stocker in though and maybe shave a bit off head, don't want to overcomplicate stuff

Edited by AngryRB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I know, Infiniti stopped importing vehicles before 2020, even though they were still selling their stock for at least a year or 2 after that, they were older build years, therefore, you can import a 2020 400R, because you couldn't buy an AuDM 2020 built Q50 RS. As for insurance, you might need to go through one of the enthusiast insurance companies, they tend to insure a lot more grey import models than the mainstream insurers as Duncan mentioned.
    • loved seeing the zenvo on the a1 just after the hatfield tunnel i was the guy in the white van trying to egg you on it sounded awesome and those exhausts glowing red inside insane cheers for the thumbs up tim and tom.
    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
    • So awesome! I love the RB with the exhaust on display.
×
×
  • Create New...