Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep, me too. Only motul fluid i use is their RBF600 Brake fluid. Have had no issues with that whatsoever.

Their oils on the other hand, cost me a couple of lifters in my 25, and also caused issues in my S14. Changed oils (And replaced lifters) and all was fine.

My tuner used to stock motul, and had quite a few problems, and now he himself stocks and uses nulon. He also Carries ULX oils.

Was Motul Turbolight 4100 10w40 in my sr, and motel 300v chrono 10w40 in my 33/rb25.

Switched to penrite in the s14 and put in new lifters and changed to nulon in the 33 and all was good.

I thought there may have been an underlying issue with the lifters in the 33, but the problem started from that oil change. Tuner said he had had the same issues with a couple of 33's he tunes/looks after.

In my case it was turbolight but I don't think it's fair to say that was what spun the bearing. It was a 200,000+ km motor running 300rwkw and was a track car of some sort in JP.

However the as soon as I changed from shockproof to motul for the gearbox it became a bag of dicks overnight and lost 5th. All gears started to crunch a little and generally felt less tight.

The diff always worked but a few runs on the skidpan was enough to kill the diff fluid. It would make a lit of weird ticking noises after a few runs and would never return until a fluid change

It's known shockproof destroys boxes, get a perfectly healthy box, add on shock proof and then watch the box deteriorate.

It's only good for boxes woth worn down synchros, if it's a healthy box steer clear of it.

It's known shockproof destroys boxes, get a perfectly healthy box, add on shock proof and then watch the box deteriorate.

It's only good for boxes woth worn down synchros, if it's a healthy box steer clear of it.

Never had issues with shockproof, but have not used it in freshly rebuilt boxes. When I put my OS gears in I won't be using it.

It's known shockproof destroys boxes, get a perfectly healthy box, add on shock proof and then watch the box deteriorate.

It's only good for boxes woth worn down synchros, if it's a healthy box steer clear of it.

Isn't it funny how views over 10 years change.

Ugggh I run Motul Htech 100 in my 33... and I've got lifter tick by the sounds of it.I used to run Penrite racing 10 10ths (10w/40) then JustJap recommended the Motul..

Looks like I'll be changing oils sooner rather than later.

Ugggh I run Motul Htech 100 in my 33... and I've got lifter tick by the sounds of it.I used to run Penrite racing 10 10ths (10w/40) then JustJap recommended the Motul..

Looks like I'll be changing oils sooner rather than later.

The precise symptoms I was talking about. My 33, and a couple of other customers had the same issues after using motul. Not sure why.

Penrite Racing 10, 10w40, just changed mine at roughly 7000km while car is off the road and has been going well in the 33 gtr, no problems experienced. Other people use HPR 10w50 with the added zinc and rate it well also for an engine that has done a fair amount of km's.

Refreshed a gearbox from a 33 gtr recently also. Cost of new bearings, synchros is fairly cheap from Japan, just take a few weeks to get all the parts. Longer if have to order more parts during the refresh. If you pay someone to do it and provide all the parts it's not that much in labour. Compared to having a crunching gearbox that is crap to drive I know what I'd take.

Once refreshed of course the gearbox feels brand new basically, worth the money. If you are not hard on boxes, the refresh will likely last for a long time.

Never used Redline oils in the gearbox and probably never will.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m only posting this cause I thought I had seen a bad review on these somewhere before. Any feedback? Would you guys recommend that if I do buy these I send em to RC to have em checked before installing. Or any other suggestions?   https://www.ebay.com/itm/114009965865?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JDl-15yLQ8C&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=QTzlFXB1S-S&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
×
×
  • Create New...