Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.carhistory.com.au/

what's going on terry?

As I implied earlier, PPSR is second rate compared to VEDA because PPSR doesn't supply info about odometer readings, nor current car value, nor whether it might have come from the Lockyer Valley Qld last year and had had flood damage.

CarHistory is part of the VEDA Group.

What I wonder is, did the Sydney Morning Herald reporter only quote the $3.70 fee for a 'verbal'; or a basic report without the frills?

CarHistory will charge $33 approx for a comprehensive report on a car.

And how much info will they supply for just a 'verbal'?

  • 1 month later...

didnt want to revive, but its fairly new still....

anyway, im a bit confused now on what to use after reading this :S, im in syd and i want to check the history of a car (currently rego'd in qld) what do i use now? :S also how about if the car is in NSW what do i use then? - will options given give national wide register info or just the state the car is currently in or i am in?

Edited by Ezy03

Best to use VEDA because it's national.

Used Car Dealers use VEDA.

REVS is only state - and VEDA uses REVS along with others.

REVS won't pick up a flooded car from Lockyer Valley if you're in NSW; nor an interstate cut n shut eg repairable write off

thanks man, i just checked out (again the veda site) and clicked on the personal link - car history. and it seems to go to carhistory.com.au, guessing that's the one that checks everything in every state the car has been?

That's it. All the best...

thanks man, ill be doing one or two soon, and ill see how it goes, ill post up my experience etc for those interested. btw they say cheaper but its still some $30 odd dollars per car..which is kinda expensive, especially if you just want to check a car before taking a long drive before viewing it or even contacting a person who's selling it.

  • 4 weeks later...

Biggest problem with this site is:

I've gone to use it twice in the last monthish, and it comes up that 1 third of the data base is down.

Now, you can't see if the car you're looking at is on that portion of the data base, without paying first.

It states, if you pay, and the car doesn't come up, they will send you the certificate when the system is back online.

How does that help me now?

If the cats not registering yet, and I pay for said certificate, and buy the car with any problems, are they going to reimburse me?

Doubtful.

When i checked for the Sil80 I bought, it came up as not on their system.

I'm pretty sure at that stage, they didn't debit my credit card.

But the new policy states they will.

I would like to see a similar system to the old revs.

Here's your info.

If you want a legal copy, pay and we will send it out.

If you just print it out, it won't be worth the paper you print it on.

Just my 2c

/rant.

  • 5 months later...

Both PPSR and Carhistory are a complete f**king joke of a system.

What a waste of money, they won't recgonise all Victorian cars, kept saying rego and VIN don't match up in their system when Vicroads does.

For the money they demand to run a check, I'd expect them to do everything right - I don't want excuses such as 'it's new, give it a time' for $33 per check it's unacceptable really.

Bring back written off and encumbrance status on Vicroads vehicle check I say, they can afford to give out free service since they take our money on rego and not fixing the roads...

/rant

Wow, i am impressed with the improvement this is going to have on the standard REVS check. I use REVS on nearly a daily basis being in the car industry, it only tells you if the vehicle is written off or encumbered (money owed) then i do a PPSR which matches the VIN number to the actual description of the vehicle. But it doesn't cost me a cent to do checks which is a bonus :)

This VEDA seems to have a lot more information, looks good!

I didn't think veda/car history did imports? I tried them with my old 34 and they couldn't look it up cause there's a few too many digits

the old revs system could.

purchased a certificate when I bought my gtr due to it being cheap.

the last couple of times I've tried using the new car history crap site, it won't display, so can't print.

they only give you 3 days in which to find a computer that can print it.

and, even if it can't find the details, they still charge.

BRING BACK REVS!

the system where you could try before you buy.

and paid for the proof you could see, not a whim and a prayer.

  • 1 month later...

Sorry for the revival.

I have put in 2x R33s and neither are valid. (at least I didn't have to pay yet!)

I ended up phoning them, and they then passed through the VIN so I can now search online....so long story short, if it doesnt work - call them, and if you are selling, maybe call them before your buyer cant find the info and walks away :)

Edited by eXc

Talk to Todd at JapLink Motors who has access to the commercial arm of VEDA.

0425857680

He may ask you to call later as they're in the middle of an industrial move & renovation.

Todd will oblige to any SAU Member; so it's worth joining if you haven't already.

He does compliancing wk too if you're buying from interstate or o'seas.

  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry for the revival.

I have put in 2x R33s and neither are valid. (at least I didn't have to pay yet!)

I ended up phoning them, and they then passed through the VIN so I can now search online....so long story short, if it doesnt work - call them, and if you are selling, maybe call them before your buyer cant find the info and walks away :)

bit hard to call at 11pm.

and i buy cars outside of business hours, which is when they dont work.

i miss REVS.

bring it back stupid government.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
×
×
  • Create New...