Link G4 Plug-In Vs Vipec V44 Plug-In

[Roy]

Thats what i was thinking. Not a huge mount of work but longer then 2 hours by the time they drill and tap threads in inlet pipes for air temp (assume bits come off as nobody wants swarf in their engine from drilling and tapping, remove kick panels and run vacuum line and make sure it is all back together. For the vipec they also have to remove the board from the housing etc

[Hanaldo]

Just coming back to this as my current issues may be forcing me down this path earlier than I had planned...

How does the new Adaptronic plug in ECU for the 25DET Neo compare to the Link/Vipec? I hadn't considered it previously because nobody around me would tune it, but I've just found out my old tuner now does them and I could get it supplied/installed/tuned for $2200. So is there any reason I should go the Link/Vipec over the Adaptronic other than price? I don't want to cheap out on the ECU, but if the Adaptronic is just as capable and easy to tune then I should consider it.

I noticed Trent's comments in the Budget ECU thread about the Adaptronic software being a bit 'clunky'? Is that a big deal that could effect the operating of my car again, or does it just make it a little harder to learn to tune? What about feature vs $$ etc. etc. Right now the Adaptronic is looking like a pretty good option unless anyone can tell me otherwise?

*EDIT* Especially since Stao just quoted me $1140 delivered for the Adaptronic. I know I should buy from my tuner so he is more 'kindly disposed' towards me, but for that price...

Edited April 30, 2012 by Hanaldo

[TiTAN]

before you buy it ask the tuner how much to just install and tune it, if its less than $1000 go for gold.

the software being clunky is only an issue to you if you are going to be playing with the tune on it, if the tuner is the only one going to be doing that then as long as they know what they are doing with the software its a non issue.

[Hanaldo]

What about the auto-tune feature? Is that easy enough to work out or is it quite tricky? That's the only part of it that I would be playing with.

While I'm looking into prices, are there other bits and pieces I would need to buy with the Adaptronic? I could get the Link board for $1500, but then still need the IAT sensor, etc. so would end up being roughly $1700. Is the Adaptronic the same? I know the Adaptronic has a 4 BAR internal map sensor, so don't need any extra.

One thing I'm concerned about with the Adaptronic is it's wasted spark. I know what it is, but what does that actually mean to me in the real world though? I'll only need 3 coilpacks?? How exactly would my setup change because of wasted spark vs full sequential?

[Hanaldo]

Ok, so I've worked out that the Adaptronic plug in ECU for the GTT is not available yet, it's still a few weeks away from being released. I'm quite settled on the Link G4 anyway, I felt a bit iffy about going with the Adaptronic. However, I was about to purchase one and was doing my last checks of the fine print to make sure of what I need, and I'm a bit unsure of a few things.

1. Does the Link G4 plug in actually have an internal MAP sensor? I can't find any mention of it on their website, all their documents *recommend* purchasing a MAP sensor otherwise it can be run with the factory AFM. Am I correct in assuming that it does in fact have an internal 2.5 bar MAP sensor and I shouldn't need one an external one to run ~19psi?

2. The IAT sensor. Do I need the XS connector to run it? Their documentation on their website says I do, but I've read elsewhere that it can use the AFM input instead? Or is that only if I am retaining the AFM? What about thread size, they offer two thread sizes. Does it matter which one I get?

[TiTAN]

the skyline plugin vipec has an internal 3 bar map sensor so the link will have the same or a 2.5bar worst case (22psi positive)

the sensor size is up to you as there is no factory hole you will have to drill and tap a new hole for it anyway. wiring it up you may find the AFM is a voltage input not a temperature input (3 temp inputs, 6 voltage inputs) worst case you can just run a new wire for it without much effort.

[JustinP]

I recently bought a Link G4 plugin for my R34 GT-T and it does not have an onboard MAP sensor. I thought they did come with one onboard, but maybe that the other versions (typical R34's, everything is always a little different!). I needed to get a MAP sensor anyway as I was going to be running higher boost than what the 2.5 bar would allow anyway. I bought a Haltech branded GM type MAP sensor which you can also configure the ECU to use.

A 2.5 bar MAP sensor would meet your needs as that could read up to about 21psi.

I have not installed mine yet but my understanding is that you can wire the IAT sensor up to the AFM plug and then configure the ECU to use that input for the IAT sensor.

The suitable IAT sensor for forced induction applications is the Bosch open air type IAT sensor. I will find the part number for you. I beleive the two different threaded IAT sensors are for NA applications. Unfortunately the Bosch open air type sensor is not threaded and is gong to be a bitch to install into the intake piping.

Ok, so I've worked out that the Adaptronic plug in ECU for the GTT is not available yet, it's still a few weeks away from being released. I'm quite settled on the Link G4 anyway, I felt a bit iffy about going with the Adaptronic. However, I was about to purchase one and was doing my last checks of the fine print to make sure of what I need, and I'm a bit unsure of a few things.

1. Does the Link G4 plug in actually have an internal MAP sensor? I can't find any mention of it on their website, all their documents *recommend* purchasing a MAP sensor otherwise it can be run with the factory AFM. Am I correct in assuming that it does in fact have an internal 2.5 bar MAP sensor and I shouldn't need one an external one to run ~19psi?

2. The IAT sensor. Do I need the XS connector to run it? Their documentation on their website says I do, but I've read elsewhere that it can use the AFM input instead? Or is that only if I am retaining the AFM? What about thread size, they offer two thread sizes. Does it matter which one I get?

[JustinP]

This is the suitable IAT sensor:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290588812480?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2097wt_689

I confirmed with Link support that this was the correct one for my application.

[Hanaldo]

I recently bought a Link G4 plugin for my R34 GT-T and it does not have an onboard MAP sensor. I thought they did come with one onboard, but maybe that the other versions (typical R34's, everything is always a little different!). I needed to get a MAP sensor anyway as I was going to be running higher boost than what the 2.5 bar would allow anyway. I bought a Haltech branded GM type MAP sensor which you can also configure the ECU to use.

A 2.5 bar MAP sensor would meet your needs as that could read up to about 21psi.

I have not installed mine yet but my understanding is that you can wire the IAT sensor up to the AFM plug and then configure the ECU to use that input for the IAT sensor.

The suitable IAT sensor for forced induction applications is the Bosch open air type IAT sensor. I will find the part number for you. I beleive the two different threaded IAT sensors are for NA applications. Unfortunately the Bosch open air type sensor is not threaded and is gong to be a bitch to install into the intake piping.

Yeh that's what I thought too, but when I was checking over the features and specifications I couldn't find any mention of an internal map sensor. So I guess they aren't quite exactly the same as the VIPEC.

The part about the IAT sensor is new to me though. I had seen the Bosche sensor but wasn't aware I couldn't use the threaded ones? How does the Bosche sensor install then?

[JustinP]

I havent really thought about how im going to seal the IAT sensor in there yet

The Bosch sensor has a little rubber o-ring on it so I figure I will drill a hole the exact same size as the sensor part, the rubber o-ring should hold it somewhat but I'm going to have to seal it in there with something else to ensure there is no chance of any leaking.

Edited May 2, 2012 by JustinP

[gotRICE?]

Strange i didnt realize the R34 G4 didnt have an onboard sensor. Mine for R33 def did.

RE- the IAT sensor, Link can supply them too, thats what i did. And just wire it into the AFM loom.

Also handy to wire in your boost conroller (i use the Link one also) to the solenoid loom.

Makes for FAR less f**king around under the dash wiring stuff in keeping your ECU loom pretty much intact.

This is my Link IAT. As far as i can tell, and remember, its just screwed in. No drama.

[JustinP]

Reason I went with the open air (and difficult to fit) sensor was because of the info here:

http://www.linkecu.com/products/InstallationAccessories/Sensors/intakeairtempsensors

But if yours is working fine maybe I should get a closed / threaded sensor too so its easier to fit. They are cheap enough too.

My intake temp readings are going to be screwed anyway as I will be running water methanol injection after the IAT sensor (Link advised the water/meth would kill the sensor if injected ahead of it). So the water/meth will drop my temps much lower that what the IAT sensor sees anyway.

Edited May 2, 2012 by JustinP

[gotRICE?]

Yeah mines been working fine for a while now. On the stock turbo, and now for just over a year with a GT30.

[Adriano]

Reason I went with the open air (and difficult to fit) sensor was because of the info here:

http://www.linkecu.c...eairtempsensors

But if yours is working fine maybe I should get a closed / threaded sensor too so its easier to fit. They are cheap enough too.

My intake temp readings are going to be screwed anyway as I will be running water methanol injection after the IAT sensor (Link advised the water/meth would kill the sensor if injected ahead of it). So the water/meth will drop my temps much lower that what the IAT sensor sees anyway.

The one shown above isnt a closed type, its open

[Hanaldo]

Strange i didnt realize the R34 G4 didnt have an onboard sensor. Mine for R33 def did.

RE- the IAT sensor, Link can supply them too, thats what i did. And just wire it into the AFM loom.

Also handy to wire in your boost conroller (i use the Link one also) to the solenoid loom.

Makes for FAR less f**king around under the dash wiring stuff in keeping your ECU loom pretty much intact.

This is my Link IAT. As far as i can tell, and remember, its just screwed in. No drama.

This is one of the sensors that I have been looking at getting, so I think I'll go with that. I can't for the life of me figure out how the Bosch sensors would fit in? It sorts looks like you just... Bolt it in? I have no idea. I tried googling, but Bosch's installation instructions are "Installation is to be such that the front part of the sensing element is directly exposed to the air flow." Well thanks for that Bosch

What's my best option for the MAP sensor? The GM one as Justin is running?? The Link ones? Other options?

[Hanaldo]

What about this Haltech IAT sensor: http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=41&category_id=39&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

And this Haltech GM 3 bar MAP sensor: http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=39&category_id=39&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

Are they good options?

[STATUS]

dont get hung up on the auto tune feature in ecus... it has no effect once it leaves the tuners and is over rated as a feature.

[Hanaldo]

Yeh it's fine, I'm not too fussed about it, only reason it's of any interest to me is I have a wideband and am always interested in learning more, so would be keen to play around with it to setup cruise cells on the road. Right now my car has been off the road for about 4 months, so I just want to focus on getting it running and driving it again, won't be playing around with it for awhile.

[TiTAN]

Yeh it's fine, I'm not too fussed about it, only reason it's of any interest to me is I have a wideband and am always interested in learning more, so would be keen to play around with it to setup cruise cells on the road. Right now my car has been off the road for about 4 months, so I just want to focus on getting it running and driving it again, won't be playing around with it for awhile.

hard to use the autotune on the road, you have to maintain the load and revs for the cell you are tuning for a couple of seconds to get a fairly accurate change, and repeat that for every cell you are changing with it. as an example as soon as you have enough load to start accelerating you cant hold the cell anymore, start going uphill? load changes or revs drop/rise. start going downhill? same thing. if the load starts changing while its calculating the value you get wildly rich or lean cells.

might as well just go manual change a few cells at a time and try it out, make a few more changes etc.

[Hanaldo]

I see, makes sense, I was wondering how well it would work.