Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I tried auto tune on my GTR with link. Issue i had is the variation between dyno afr and my innovate's afr. So i found it easier to just tune on dyno as i normally do.

With this however the innovate was in the tailpipe which wouldnt be helping. I will put a bung in the dump pipe and retry when my new tur bro arrives

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 months later...

So I gather no one sticks with a mass air flow meter like a Z32 ?

I did ask Scott at Insight a couple of years back about Vipecs and MAF sensors and he said all good . I just like the idea of an air flow measuring device that takes temperature into the equation and spits out one I think 0-5v signal . I was never happy with trying to factor in air temp sensor compensations and map sensors when trying to play with early Haltechs and an SM4 .

I think MAP sensors are the go when regulating boost pressure but personally I was never happiy using manifold pressure for primary load sensing .

If I end up with one of hese plug ins it will use my Z32 MAF meter .

Just my thoughts , cheers A .

I just think on a single turbo car its easy and if you have a Z32 already these plug ins are literally plug and play . I'm not so sure a Z32 is a major restriction and if it was the V8 one shoudn't be .

If I remember correctly these Vipec/Links are set up as a throttle position signal load sensing with either a MAP or MAF correction table ?

Just as a point of interest years ago I ran my Autronic SMC on the old FJ20 with the air temp sensor in the manifold , throttlebody actually but after several of them died I was told to put it in the plumbing just short of the throttlebody . It sort of made sense here because it was measuring air temp upstream of the TB so probably closer to ambient , well post intercooler anyway . I noticed Guilt Toy has his in the plumbing rather than the inlet manifold .

A .

So I gather no one sticks with a mass air flow meter like a Z32 ?

I did ask Scott at Insight a couple of years back about Vipecs and MAF sensors and he said all good . I just like the idea of an air flow measuring device that takes temperature into the equation and spits out one I think 0-5v signal . I was never happy with trying to factor in air temp sensor compensations and map sensors when trying to play with early Haltechs and an SM4 .

I think MAP sensors are the go when regulating boost pressure but personally I was never happiy using manifold pressure for primary load sensing .

If I end up with one of hese plug ins it will use my Z32 MAF meter .

Just my thoughts , cheers A .

i gained mid range response removing z32 afm and using link g4, looked all pretty similar on dyno but feels alot better to drive

(IAT sensor in plumbing)

Edited by WMDC35

So I gather no one sticks with a mass air flow meter like a Z32 ?

I did ask Scott at Insight a couple of years back about Vipecs and MAF sensors and he said all good . I just like the idea of an air flow measuring device that takes temperature into the equation and spits out one I think 0-5v signal . I was never happy with trying to factor in air temp sensor compensations and map sensors when trying to play with early Haltechs and an SM4 .

I think MAP sensors are the go when regulating boost pressure but personally I was never happiy using manifold pressure for primary load sensing .

If I end up with one of hese plug ins it will use my Z32 MAF meter .

Just my thoughts , cheers A .

The sm4 has a charge temp estimate table. Plus you enter compression ratio so it can work out charge temp after compression. What other ecu has that.

And as for 4d tuning its a snack when you have a ve equation.

I tuned an ls1 that was in a plane with individual throttle bodies and medium size cam (238@50 square) So I was tuning in 5d if you factor in baro compensation. That was fun......

Yeah well thats what used to make me wonder - estimation . How the hell can they estimate every different conceivable engine combinations charge temperature ? Sure for type approval a manufacturer can probably afford the test gear to know what a mass produced engines charge temps will be .

A mass (measuring air by weight) flow meter tells the computer whats on the way in and knows its densityand therefore temperature . To me its reasonably simple in that if you know how much air is being injested its not hard to inject a suitable amount of fuel to come up with workabe air fuel ratios .

With a MAP sensor system theres more crunching going on and you want to be sure that the constantly changing air pressures/temperatures/density can be accurately measure by a pressure and a temperature sensor and processed to give a reliable and accurate load signal .

In the recent past most but not all production engines including performance engines ran some form of mass flow meter and to get todays emissions and consumption results the system must work pretty well .

Just my thoughts , cheers A .

  • 9 months later...

Hi guys,

there seems to be lots of confusion over the plugin Link and Vi-pec Nissan ecu's. They are made by the same company-true. Are they the same? No they are very different on the Nissan plugin board. The Vi-pec has a 4 bar inbuilt map sensor. The Vi-pec has an ignition output channel for each cylinder, the Link runs wasted spark. The Vi-pec has built in individual cylinder knock control. The Link needs an external knock unit and then can only retard 2 cylinders at once due to the wasted spark. The Vi-pec has more outputs than the Link. The Vi-pec comes with a high speed air temp sensor. The tuning software on the Vi-pec has one very important feature called the MIXTURE MAP table which makes tuning on the track or road very easy which the Link does not. This works by setting your a/f targets in the open loop table, then setting the fuel numbers so the engine runs richer/safer than you want to end up with, drive the car around on the track, road or run up on the dyno. Go to the mixture map page and the fuel sites that the engine has been into will come up on the page telling you what your target a/f ratio is, your actual a/f ratio, how many times it has looked at the a/f ratio. For example at 5000 rpm and 1.5 bar boost your target may be 12/1 (it could be anything the tuner wants the target to be you just put it in the target table - 11/1-13/1 whatever ) so say the actual comes up as 10.5/1 all you do is double click on the box and it will change the number in the main fuel table to suit the target 12/1. This is really useful when tuning high horsepower cars on the dyno where holding 2 bar of boost at 7500 rpm for very long is really hard on everything. If I am wrong on anything written here please tell me. These are the reason why the Vi-pec is more expensive than the Link. Cheers, Grant.

Edited by old grant

Dredging up old thoughts , well mine uses MAP sensing and while its working better than I thought it would I can't quite get the fuel consumption I had with MAF/PFC . All thats changed aside from the board is the intercooler which is a Blits rtn frow instead of the GTt one . My guess is that the MAF signal works out a little better right where you go into positive pressure and have to ensure the mixture doesn't lean at that point .

My IAT sensor is in the back of the factory crossover pipe and shows some reasonably high temps (high 40s) when idling for a while . I have to wonder if the temp of the pipe affects things here .

I must ask Scott if there are any inputs unused so a MAF signal can at least be viewed

A .

Hi guys,

there seems to be lots of confusion over the plugin Link and Vi-pec Nissan ecu's. They are made by the same company-true. Are they the same? No they are very different on the Nissan plugin board. The Vi-pec has a 4 bar inbuilt map sensor. The Vi-pec has an ignition output channel for each cylinder, the Link runs wasted spark. The Vi-pec has built in individual cylinder knock control. The Link needs an external knock unit and then can only retard 2 cylinders at once due to the wasted spark. The Vi-pec has more outputs than the Link. The Vi-pec comes with a high speed air temp sensor. The tuning software on the Vi-pec has one very important feature called the MIXTURE MAP table which makes tuning on the track or road very easy which the Link does not. This works by setting your a/f targets in the open loop table, then setting the fuel numbers so the engine runs richer/safer than you want to end up with, drive the car around on the track, road or run up on the dyno. Go to the mixture map page and the fuel sites that the engine has been into will come up on the page telling you what your target a/f ratio is, your actual a/f ratio, how many times it has looked at the a/f ratio. For example at 5000 rpm and 1.5 bar boost your target may be 12/1 (it could be anything the tuner wants the target to be you just put it in the target table - 11/1-13/1 whatever ) so say the actual comes up as 10.5/1 all you do is double click on the box and it will change the number in the main fuel table to suit the target 12/1. This is really useful when tuning high horsepower cars on the dyno where holding 2 bar of boost at 7500 rpm for very long is really hard on everything. If I am wrong on anything written here please tell me. These are the reason why the Vi-pec is more expensive than the Link. Cheers, Grant.

Hmm - I've been making a little collection of spreadsheets/apps for myself to make tuning a bit easier, and been pondering what else might help... I have no idea why I never thought of making a background app which could open an LLG file and map out the mean AFRs for load cells hit in a logging session for a Link - given none of the guys I know use ViPECs. That isn't QUITE as good as clicking a cell and having the map adjust itself, but with the quick trim feature the Link does have it will be close enough, and should only take a couple hours to build. If you have set up the AFR target table quick trim will bring up a suggested AFR target so you don't have to head scratch too much.

Thanks for the idea :)

Hi guys,

there seems to be lots of confusion over the plugin Link and Vi-pec Nissan ecu's. They are made by the same company-true. Are they the same? No they are very different on the Nissan plugin board. The Vi-pec has a 4 bar inbuilt map sensor. The Vi-pec has an ignition output channel for each cylinder, the Link runs wasted spark. The Vi-pec has built in individual cylinder knock control. The Link needs an external knock unit and then can only retard 2 cylinders at once due to the wasted spark. The Vi-pec has more outputs than the Link. The Vi-pec comes with a high speed air temp sensor. The tuning software on the Vi-pec has one very important feature called the MIXTURE MAP table which makes tuning on the track or road very easy which the Link does not. This works by setting your a/f targets in the open loop table, then setting the fuel numbers so the engine runs richer/safer than you want to end up with, drive the car around on the track, road or run up on the dyno. Go to the mixture map page and the fuel sites that the engine has been into will come up on the page telling you what your target a/f ratio is, your actual a/f ratio, how many times it has looked at the a/f ratio. For example at 5000 rpm and 1.5 bar boost your target may be 12/1 (it could be anything the tuner wants the target to be you just put it in the target table - 11/1-13/1 whatever ) so say the actual comes up as 10.5/1 all you do is double click on the box and it will change the number in the main fuel table to suit the target 12/1. This is really useful when tuning high horsepower cars on the dyno where holding 2 bar of boost at 7500 rpm for very long is really hard on everything. If I am wrong on anything written here please tell me. These are the reason why the Vi-pec is more expensive than the Link. Cheers, Grant.

That is very interesting... We use the closed loop lambda control but have never used the MIXTURE MAP before.

I have been playing with some my logs vs my current tune over the last few hours to test it out and it actually seems like a very clever idea. Sometimes it's popping up numbers on the fuel that seem to a tad high or low but that's without actually testing. Have you found that the numbers are spot on after a "double click" or is it more of a estimation that still needs tweaking?

Also like how you can isolate so it only shows when you have a decent amount of samples so you can ignore any random readings

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi All, New member here, I've joined to help my son with an issue that is truly doing our heads in. I'll start with a bit of an overview. Chris carried out some modifications to the engine to try and extract just a little extra power out of the motor and make it a bit more efficient. Previous to this work, the car already had an upgraded exhaust, increased boost up to 14psi, modified standard turbo to metal impellers and slightly oversized, upgraded fuel pump, been dyno-tuned at JEM, and some other bits n bobs like coil packs etc. Before the current mods it was making 236rwkw at 14psi but after the new mods it now makes 209rwkw at 14psi. The work he carried out is as follows, timing belt service, water pump replacement, return to sump radium catch can, had oem head rebuilt and machined 0.2mm, fitted Athena cut ring head gasket 1.2mm thick, arp 2000 head studs, added rear prp head drain, added an external wastegate 40mm turbosmart welded off the stock manifold and plumbed back into a 3in dump. The car has been on the dyno and apparently the ignition is working, fuel flow and fuel pressure is fine, injectors are fine, spark plugs are working fine, Maf is working, O2 sensor is working, TPs sensor is working, VCT is working, CAS is working, boost leak test showed no boost leaks, compression test first crank cold 135psi and got to 150psi across all cylinders once cranking, timing is confirmed at tdc with a dial gauge and the cam dots line up, no blockages in intercoolerm throttle body or pre-turbo intake, no blockages in exhaust, cat conveter or down pipe, turbo looks fine and spins and wastegate looks fine and is new. Soz for all the detail but after all this, it has been in 3 times for dyno and each time comes back stating it's not going to make power. After the first (or second, can't remember now) trip to dyno we did find the timing out by one tooth and this improved things, but it is still well down. Does anyone have any ideas?  Any replies much appreciated as we're just not sure of which direction to take this. Regards Rob (Chris's Dad).
    • That's just a gauge, with a certain amount of electronic damping, and no-one cares if it is timely-accurate. I'd hesitate to use it for an ECU MAP input without knowing that it was a nice signal. Responsive but smooth. Not laggy. Not lumpy.
    • Took the dirty BMW to an actual drag meet so I could do a legit full pass on a sticky enough track and had a quiet goal to try and beat my PB in the old R33 GTS25t The time to beat:  R33 on stock RB25, Internal gate GT3076R on stock manifold tuned to about 17psi on BP98 and running on drag tyres: F20 M135i with intake, dump pipe and MHD OTS Stage 1 tune on street tyres - didn't even drop the tyre pressure: Kinda similar, and kinda way different
    • Isn't there a fitting on the back of the balance tube? That's what the OEM boost gauge uses.
    • Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...