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Link G4 Plug-In Vs Vipec V44 Plug-In

Hanaldo

By Hanaldo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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old grant Rookie

old grant

Posted
Posted

Hi SimonR32, when the mixture map is open-the ecu must be online, right click on the map and go to properties and it gives lots of options to only show samples with more meaning, eg. how close to centre of cell, how many samples, throttle rate etc. Its quite accurate when set up. Cheers, Grant.

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old grant Rookie

old grant

Posted
Posted

Hi discopotato03, there are more outputs which may or not be of use to you, the main thing apart from the direct spark is the onboard individual cylinder knock control. Cheers, Grant.

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

Hi SimonR32, when the mixture map is open-the ecu must be online, right click on the map and go to properties and it gives lots of options to only show samples with more meaning, eg. how close to centre of cell, how many samples, throttle rate etc. Its quite accurate when set up. Cheers, Grant.

Yeah did all that, ECU doesn't have to be online. You just need a map loaded and a log loaded and it works.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Might be a little bit far off topic, but I've searched without much luck and doesn't seem worth creating a new topic.

Just in the process of wiring my AEM UEGO wideband to an input on my Link G4 plug in so that I can log my AFR's. But the Link doesn't have the AEM in it's list, so just wanted to see if someone can confirm whether I am setting up the calibration table correctly? I believe the AEM uses a linear signal; 0V = 10AFR, 2.5V = 15AFR, and 4.99V = 19.98AFR. That's according to the table in the user manual: http://www.schnitzracing.com/manuals/AEMWBK.pdf

As I understand it, calibration tables 4-6 are the linear tables in PCLink. Looking at cal table 6 which appears to be unused in mine, input value A is 0.00V and input value B is 5.00V. I set the output units to AFR. I am guessing now, that I should set the output value A to 10AFR and output value B to 20AFR? Or should I change input value B to 4.99V and output value B to 19.98V, as per the AEM calibration table? Then after it is connected, I assume I need to make sure the ECU reads the same as the wideband gauge display? And if it doesn't, adjust the cal table to suit, or?

Just wanting to make sure I'm on the right track here.

old grant Rookie

old grant

Posted
Posted

Hi Hanalado, I would start with a=0v b=4.99 In the lower section would have a=10 b=19.98. After this is done I hold the revs around 1500 and then highlight about six boxes around the current load point using the shift and arrow keys. I then make the numbers larger using the Q key until I get down to 10/1 afr and make sure the ecu reads the same as the aem. Then make the numbers smaller using the A key until you get to 18/1 afr and make sure the numbers match. It should but sometimes you have to alter the numbers a little. If you do change numbers you need to go back to the other extreme and recheck and keep doing that until its right at both extremes. Hope this helps.

Cheers, Grant.

linkems Collaborator

linkems

Posted
Posted

I have a gm 3 bar style map sensor, it tends to read around 100kpa when the engine is off however there are times it is as high as 109kpa and as low as 80kpa. The fluctuation seems to be correlated with engine bay temperature affecting the sensor reading. Is any one running a genuine ac delco (GM) 3 bar map sensor? are you getting consistent readings close to 100kpa? I'm thinking of changing my sensor because this sort of variance can't be good, but no point if the same problem arises.

Cheers

Pat

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

I have a gm 3 bar style map sensor, it tends to read around 100kpa when the engine is off however there are times it is as high as 109kpa and as low as 80kpa. The fluctuation seems to be correlated with engine bay temperature affecting the sensor reading. Is any one running a genuine ac delco (GM) 3 bar map sensor? are you getting consistent readings close to 100kpa? I'm thinking of changing my sensor because this sort of variance can't be good, but no point if the same problem arises.

Cheers

Pat

try replacing the map sensor, or check the wiring. thats not normal.

old grant Rookie

old grant

Posted
Posted

Hi, I agree with Guilt Toy most likely the sensor, should always read 100-102 kpa when not running in most of Oz. Lots of crappy copies of the Delco sensor. It could be bad earth, wiring ecu etc. but very likely sensor.

  • 1 month later...
B-Boi34 Community Regular

B-Boi34

Posted
Posted

Hi guys so I just bought a Link G4 for my R34 GTT. In the instructions it states I need to use the standard MAP sensor & just re-plumb it to a pressure source that reads vacuum & boost.

I was always under the impression they didnt come with MAP sensors. Can anyone confirm that is does & where its located?

Thank you

B-Boi34 Community Regular

B-Boi34

Posted
Posted

Are you refering to the Link ecu? If so I can confirm it is not. It states it comes with a MAP sensor IF the car does not have one from factory.

The below is taken straight out of the instruction manual

Nissan Skyline R34 GTS

The Link G4 Nissan R34 Plug-In ECU supports several options for fitting of a MAP sensor. Any one of the

following options can be used:

1. Factory MAP Sensor – The RB25DET factory MAP sensor is suitable for use. It must be re-plumbed to a

pressure source that measures vacuum and boost pressure*. The factory MAP sensor is wired to An Volt

3. The factory sensor is good for 125kPa (18psi) of boost.

2. MAP Sensor Wired Through AFM – To avoid running additional wires into the engine bay, a MAP signal

can be brought in through the AFM signal wires. The AFM is wired to An Volt 1. Refer to factory wiring

manuals for AFM wiring connections. Make sure the AFM can not be reconnected.

3. MAP Via Expansion Connector - The expansion connector provides power, ground, and analogue channels

for the connection of a MAP sensor

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

The R34 plug-in model doesn't come with an on-board MAP sensor.

Brody, the R34 GTT does have a MAP sensor. It is located at the back of the engine bay, above your brake lines. Like so:

gallery_34711_3643_89247.jpg

Personally 18psi was never going to be enough, so I just skipped any messing around and bought the expansion harness and a Haltech 3-bar MAP sensor.

Edited by Hanaldo
B-Boi34 Community Regular

B-Boi34

Posted
Posted

Ok so I also bought a boost solenoid so I can control the boost with the ECU. I was told I can simply cut the wiring for the factory boost controller & wire it to the new boost controller.

Has anyone done this before? From memory there are 2 wires that go to the factory boost controller, which one would I use?

Thanks in advance

  • 2 years later...
stranger12 Community Regular

stranger12

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

After much of research I came across this thread.

Basically, I am having issues with my car and it is running rich . I think it is due to the boost pressure sensor or map sensor as some people refer to it .

This is a pic of it as also per earlier post. I got a qoute for a new one and it is £150 UK british pound which seems a lot.

I have seen this thread people mentioning to simply swap it with haltech 3 bar /2 bar. I am planning to do so . is it simply a rewiring and plug an play ?

has anyone done this ?

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