R33 Gtr Rear Subframe Into R32 Gtr

[Nur33]

Hi

I have a R32 GTR and the rear subframe is a bit out of whack and just wanted to know if the later model R33 and R34 GTR subframes a direct fit or do the bushes need to be offset. Is there issues with the overall track measurement are they different? I know the r33 and r34 lower control arms have the mounts in different position to stop the suspension binding up under hard launches. Just wanted to know if this is possible or has been done before otherwise i'll just find out and try myself.

Cheers

Benny

[luke gtr]

I have no idea, but am interested in your results.

Good luck.

And when done, post pics.

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

probably ask Risking, he has done all sorts of work on suspension geometry

[Nur33]

Ok Thanks

[R31Nismoid]

It's not a direct fit IIRC, but it's not a huge task to be done.

There are a couple R32 GTR drag cars using R33 GTR rear ends in Syd

Also a R32 GTS-t down here using a R34 rear.

[Russman]

How did you go? Any further development? I know of cars that have 33 and 34 GTR rear subframes but not sure of the differences. Can anyone tell me what the advantages are? More detail than "better geometry" cos I've heard that already.

I have an R32 GTSt and keep breaking driveshafts on launches with sticky tyres. If there is more than the benifit of not breaking shafts then it might be worthwhile.

Here is a link to offset bushes made by a SAU member.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/376533-offset-alloy-subframe-bushes-for-installing-33-cradle-into-32/page__p__6006841__fromsearch__1#entry6006841

[KiwiRS4T]

If you're just worried about breaking axles I have a 32GTR diff and 6 x 1 axles in my Stagea with the stock subframe. The abs sensors were changed over and there was a bit of stuffing round to mount the attessa pump but if you don't have the Atessa then it should be easy for you.

[Russman]

If you're just worried about breaking axles I have a 32GTR diff and 6 x 1 axles in my Stagea with the stock subframe. The abs sensors were changed over and there was a bit of stuffing round to mount the attessa pump but if you don't have the Atessa then it should be easy for you.

Nah I don't mind breaking shafts. They're a 30 min changeover most of the time (if spline is ok) and cheap. If there is big benifit in grip for my car (mostly circuit racing) then I would do it with the benifit of stronger shafts.

[Risking]

Offset bushes are one way of doing the job.

I don't use them though

The last one I did ( as well as 90% of the other ones)

Was to press out the old bushes which can be a nightmare and cut the actual subframe. The ends are re shaped and then re welded back on.

I do it this way for a few reasons.

By cutting the mounts off I can sit the subframe in the jig and adjust the pro/anti squat depending on the vehicle.

It makes machining subframe shims so much easier. If you really get stuck and need them interstate etc you can so just use a normal washer.

In some categories it's possible to tell that the subframe is modified or not factory fitted.

I machine centered alloy bushes or just refit aftermarket ones.

The bushes I machine also have some minor geometry changes.

R33 has some minor improvements at the lower control arm prodimimatly to do with squat angles.

[Russman]

R33 has some minor improvements at the lower control arm prodimimatly to do with squat angles.

Thanks Brad. Sounds like you're the guy that knows. Do you think a 33 subframe is of much benifit for a 2wd time attack car like mine?

[Risking]

It's a step in the right direction for sure.

Obviously a high powered RWD is going to benefit from more pro squat to gain traction. But it's a fine line to get traction without losing forward drive. The more the rear end squats the less forward drive you have despite the added traction.

One way is to use the r33 subframe. Or alternatively modify the R33 pick up points subtly by cutting the mounts off at the subframe and doing a cut and shut. They look 100% factory when done properly

[Russman]

It's a step in the right direction for sure.

Obviously a high powered RWD is going to benefit from more pro squat to gain traction. But it's a fine line to get traction without losing forward drive. The more the rear end squats the less forward drive you have despite the added traction.

One way is to use the r33 subframe. Or alternatively modify the R33 pick up points subtly by cutting the mounts off at the subframe and doing a cut and shut. They look 100% factory when done properly

Thanks for the advice. Sounds like if I want to take it further a trip to sydney is in order haha.

[Dan_J]

figure i'd post in here and not post up a new thread

looking at specific info for rear squat ( more rear grip) angles, so from what i've read if the front of the rear subframe is lower ( further away from the chassis rails) and the back of the subframe is higher ( as close as possible to the chassis rails) this will gain better grip on take off, does this also apply to cornering and drifting or only on take off/drags ?

[Frosty]

It's a step in the right direction for sure.

Obviously a high powered RWD is going to benefit from more pro squat to gain traction. But it's a fine line to get traction without losing forward drive. The more the rear end squats the less forward drive you have despite the added traction.

One way is to use the r33 subframe. Or alternatively modify the R33 pick up points subtly by cutting the mounts off at the subframe and doing a cut and shut. They look 100% factory when done properly

whats the benefits vs cost in this perspective?

in the near future i will be looking at getting power to the ground tho im sure that offset bushes and a decent suspension will be just as good aslong as you are getting the alignment correct

[Chris32R]

Bringing up an old thread.

When installing an R33 GTR subframe into a R32 GTR, what things need to be changed over from r32 to r33?

Am I right in thinking that an r33 gtr subframe will bolt straight on to r32 gtr by using subframe bushes that you use to install s14 subframe into s13.

Any help would be great.

Thanks

[CrimsonLey]

I've been doing some searching regarding the R33 subframe into an R32. It seems to be more of a drag racing modification. What I gather is that the anti-squat properties of the R33 subframe aid in the launch of the car (i.e. acceleration when exiting a corner). Is that right?

I don't drag race. I road race, will the R33 subframe benefit me during cornering? I mean, does it offer better neutral steering balance, better body control, etc?

At this point, I think Ill benefit more by keeping my BNR32s subframe (change bushings) and purchasing bigger sways and sophisticated coilovers.

Can someone help me out?

[Dan_J]

the rear end will grip better, while cornering etc and in a straight line. one difference is the way the lower control arm mounts are angled... with the r32 subframe the control arms are on a angle( one control mount is higher then the other) while the r33 is almost straight

gk tech have r32/13 to s14/r33 conversion alloy subframe raisers in stock

Edited May 4, 2013 by Dan_J

[CrimsonLey]

the rear end will grip better, while cornering etc and in a straight line. one difference is the way the lower control arm mounts are angled... with the r32 subframe the control arms are on a angle( one control mount is higher then the other) while the r33 is almost straight

 

gk tech have r32/13 to s14/r33 conversion alloy subframe raisers in stock

In that case, would I have to use R33 rear suspension bits or is my BNR32 suspension gonna work with the upgraded subframe?

Sent from my SC-03D

[Dan_J]

r32 suspension will work but will need to slip in a lil washer for the lower control arms as r33 bushes are slightly wider

- unsure about the hi-cas interchangeability though

[CrimsonLey]

r32 suspension will work but will need to slip in a lil washer for the lower control arms as r33 bushes are slightly wider

 

- unsure about the hi-cas interchangeability though

Apparently, the LCA, UCA and Tie Rods should be swapped for R33 components as well. The differentials and drive shafts fit even though there's 2 bracket holes instead of the 4 (for the BNR32 diff).

I'm still concerned with the axles. I think I'll need BCNR33 axles since the member is wider.

is that right?

Sent from my SC-03D