Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no you dont need r33 axles, i'm running gtst r33 axles in my daily cefiro with the s13/r32/a31 type subframe in there so they should contract and expand to suit, which is just what they do if you have a spare set laying around to look at.

r32 LCA's are slightly shorter and the bushes are slightly thinner then r33 so that might be why its suggested also the camber arms line up the same they just might be slightly longer as i have a few spare sets laying around that i compared.

the r32 tie rod could be shorter and the hicas may not mount up to the same hole so i'm unsure those issuses

^Thanks, mate. That was the last bit of information I needed.

I haven't yet installed the R33 subframe but it looks like I just need the items I previously mentioned and I can still retain my BNR32 axles.

I'm going to uninstall the HICAS at that time so I just need to figure out if I can use a HICAS lock out bar designed for the BCNR33. I imagine that BCNR33 lock out bars will suit me better than ones designed for the BNR32.

Don't use a HICAS lockout bar. Get one of the kits that pisses the HICAS rack off (and doesn't replace it with a bar) and instead adds some brackets to mount some new toe arms to completely get rid of the old tie rods. The tie rods are half the problem with old HICAS rear ends. They get sloppy. Why keep that crap in the car when you can get rid of it.

I went the whole hog and put a non-HICAS subframe into my R32 (GTSt) rather than have anything non-factory back there. That's because technically any HICAS removal/locokut is modification of a steering system and must be engineered or it is defectable.

My car just went through Regency like this for the engine conversion and the inspector (who knows Nissans fairly well because he's probably been under 50% of the S13s and R32/3s in Adelaide!!) did not even blink.

Don't use a HICAS lockout bar.  Get one of the kits that pisses the HICAS rack off (and doesn't replace it with a bar) and instead adds some brackets to mount some new toe arms to completely get rid of the old tie rods.  The tie rods are half the problem with old HICAS rear ends.  They get sloppy.  Why keep that crap in the car when you can get rid of it.

 

I went the whole hog and put a non-HICAS subframe into my R32 (GTSt) rather than have anything non-factory back there.  That's because technically any HICAS removal/locokut is modification of a steering system and must be engineered or it is defectable.

 

My car just went through Regency like this for the engine conversion and the inspector (who knows Nissans fairly well because he's probably been under 50% of the S13s and R32/3s in Adelaide!!) did not even blink.

Thanks for the advice. You're non HICAS subframe is definitely non factory back there.

I'm changing the engineering of the rear anyways per the use of a different subframe. I doubt installing a HICAS lock bar.. Bars will cause more major geometry changes than I will already have.

Btw, I'm using SPL Hicas lock bars as opposed to a long bar.

No....my non-HICAS subframe is from a Cefiro but is exactly the same as a non-HICAS R32 subframe. There were plenty such cars made, just not as GTSts. So it is definitely factory. Factory subframe, factory toe rods. Unless you 100% were expecting to find HICAS under there, you wouldn't even blink. But the SPL bars look non-factory even though they approximate the same design as a proper non-HICAS subframe. If they are brightly coloured, paint them black before you fit them.

I don't worry about the geometry changes and so on that result from mods (unless they are undesirable changes from poorly thought through mods!! But let's assume that we're talking about intended geometry changes). I do worry about keeping it looking stock enough that no cop will bend down and jump for defect glory joy if he gets a hard on for me.

yes non hicas frames came from nissan and the a31/r32/s13 frames are all the same except for an extra exhaust mount on the s13.

gtr cradles are ment to have some extra bracing but nothing special as that can be welded to the others.

i'm just going to make up a mount out of plate and weld it in for the hicas r33 cradle i have for my non hicas ceffy.

edit: in fact s15 cradles are said to be the same as the r33 but the s15 were all non hicas

Edited by Dan_J

My point, and maybe I see things differently, was that a rear subframe other than stock is not "factory."

Great, yeah, its from another Nissan vehicle. Perhaps, that's "factory" according Aussie laws.

A subframe from another make could have hypothetically fit on there and been "factory" for that specific make. For example, lets say that a Ferrari subframe fit on there from the Ferrari factory.

Anyways, I get the point. I love the idea of not having to use hicas lock bars if not needed. I've been told that the R33, S14, S15 are basically the same.

  • 1 year later...

I had mine done a while ago, Brad/Risking did it for me just before I busted my engine so I cant tell you how much better it makes the car..

didn't end up costing me that much in the end, I did it as an upgrade while I was changing my subframe and diff bushes.

I had mine done a while ago, Brad/Risking did it for me just before I busted my engine so I cant tell you how much better it makes the car..

didn't end up costing me that much in the end, I did it as an upgrade while I was changing my subframe and diff bushes.

How did you manage to fit the 33 frame to the 33?

When the 33 frame is fitted what suspension and brakes will be used??

When u want to fit after market parts how do you go about that ??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...