Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtr Rear Subframe Into R32 Gtr


Recommended Posts

no you dont need r33 axles, i'm running gtst r33 axles in my daily cefiro with the s13/r32/a31 type subframe in there so they should contract and expand to suit, which is just what they do if you have a spare set laying around to look at.

r32 LCA's are slightly shorter and the bushes are slightly thinner then r33 so that might be why its suggested also the camber arms line up the same they just might be slightly longer as i have a few spare sets laying around that i compared.

the r32 tie rod could be shorter and the hicas may not mount up to the same hole so i'm unsure those issuses

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^Thanks, mate. That was the last bit of information I needed.

I haven't yet installed the R33 subframe but it looks like I just need the items I previously mentioned and I can still retain my BNR32 axles.

I'm going to uninstall the HICAS at that time so I just need to figure out if I can use a HICAS lock out bar designed for the BCNR33. I imagine that BCNR33 lock out bars will suit me better than ones designed for the BNR32.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't use a HICAS lockout bar. Get one of the kits that pisses the HICAS rack off (and doesn't replace it with a bar) and instead adds some brackets to mount some new toe arms to completely get rid of the old tie rods. The tie rods are half the problem with old HICAS rear ends. They get sloppy. Why keep that crap in the car when you can get rid of it.

I went the whole hog and put a non-HICAS subframe into my R32 (GTSt) rather than have anything non-factory back there. That's because technically any HICAS removal/locokut is modification of a steering system and must be engineered or it is defectable.

My car just went through Regency like this for the engine conversion and the inspector (who knows Nissans fairly well because he's probably been under 50% of the S13s and R32/3s in Adelaide!!) did not even blink.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't use a HICAS lockout bar.  Get one of the kits that pisses the HICAS rack off (and doesn't replace it with a bar) and instead adds some brackets to mount some new toe arms to completely get rid of the old tie rods.  The tie rods are half the problem with old HICAS rear ends.  They get sloppy.  Why keep that crap in the car when you can get rid of it.

 

I went the whole hog and put a non-HICAS subframe into my R32 (GTSt) rather than have anything non-factory back there.  That's because technically any HICAS removal/locokut is modification of a steering system and must be engineered or it is defectable.

 

My car just went through Regency like this for the engine conversion and the inspector (who knows Nissans fairly well because he's probably been under 50% of the S13s and R32/3s in Adelaide!!) did not even blink.

Thanks for the advice. You're non HICAS subframe is definitely non factory back there.

I'm changing the engineering of the rear anyways per the use of a different subframe. I doubt installing a HICAS lock bar.. Bars will cause more major geometry changes than I will already have.

Btw, I'm using SPL Hicas lock bars as opposed to a long bar.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No....my non-HICAS subframe is from a Cefiro but is exactly the same as a non-HICAS R32 subframe. There were plenty such cars made, just not as GTSts. So it is definitely factory. Factory subframe, factory toe rods. Unless you 100% were expecting to find HICAS under there, you wouldn't even blink. But the SPL bars look non-factory even though they approximate the same design as a proper non-HICAS subframe. If they are brightly coloured, paint them black before you fit them.

I don't worry about the geometry changes and so on that result from mods (unless they are undesirable changes from poorly thought through mods!! But let's assume that we're talking about intended geometry changes). I do worry about keeping it looking stock enough that no cop will bend down and jump for defect glory joy if he gets a hard on for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes non hicas frames came from nissan and the a31/r32/s13 frames are all the same except for an extra exhaust mount on the s13.

gtr cradles are ment to have some extra bracing but nothing special as that can be welded to the others.

i'm just going to make up a mount out of plate and weld it in for the hicas r33 cradle i have for my non hicas ceffy.

edit: in fact s15 cradles are said to be the same as the r33 but the s15 were all non hicas

Edited by Dan_J
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My point, and maybe I see things differently, was that a rear subframe other than stock is not "factory."

Great, yeah, its from another Nissan vehicle. Perhaps, that's "factory" according Aussie laws.

A subframe from another make could have hypothetically fit on there and been "factory" for that specific make. For example, lets say that a Ferrari subframe fit on there from the Ferrari factory.

Anyways, I get the point. I love the idea of not having to use hicas lock bars if not needed. I've been told that the R33, S14, S15 are basically the same.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I had mine done a while ago, Brad/Risking did it for me just before I busted my engine so I cant tell you how much better it makes the car..

didn't end up costing me that much in the end, I did it as an upgrade while I was changing my subframe and diff bushes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had mine done a while ago, Brad/Risking did it for me just before I busted my engine so I cant tell you how much better it makes the car..

didn't end up costing me that much in the end, I did it as an upgrade while I was changing my subframe and diff bushes.

How did you manage to fit the 33 frame to the 33?

When the 33 frame is fitted what suspension and brakes will be used??

When u want to fit after market parts how do you go about that ??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
    • Is the RB26 actually that far off the mark? Honestly from where I'm sitting a VR38DETT is not actually that much more advanced than the RB26. Yes, there is a scavenge pump on the VR38, it's smarter in a number of ways but it's not actually jumping out to me as alien technology. Something like a B58 or V35A-FTS on the other hand has so many surprising little design features that add up to be something that just isn't comparable. 
    • https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2021-nissan-skyline-400r-auto-rv37/SSE-AD-17857548/ Well there you go 
    • Chris won't reply. He doesn't visit the forum much anymore. You can try these guys https://www.facebook.com/autotainment/ They did mine many years ago
×
×
  • Create New...