Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...

Thread dig

No I did not change my shafts when I swapped my 32 subframe to a 33 one.

Still work fine though you are right in saying that it is wider and it will push your wheels out.

I'm not so sure I like the look

  • 6 months later...

Another thread dig, I've nearly finished my conversion (after starting it in 2014 lol) of R33 subframe into my R32 and I'm struggling for info about the rear LCA inner bushes. There was a mention earlier that washers are required but shouldn't I be able to get R33 bushes to suit an R33 subframe?

The difference I've measured for the width of the rear LCA inner bushes: R32-45mm, R33-50mm.

I've even asked about aftermarket R33 rear LCA's and they all tell me that they're 45mm!

Any help is appreciated.

See the pics of R32 vs R33.

post-10715-14604628332168_thumb.jpgpost-10715-14604628486645_thumb.jpg

  • 8 months later...
12 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

HICAS notwithstanding, they are supposed to be the same "geometry".

Just bought one for $60 with all the arms and hubs (which I'm guessing I just use my R32 ones in) so will look at making some offset-offset spacers to align everything back to the middle

  • 5 months later...

Update on doing this for anyone looking to do this, parts required are:

1, R33/R34 or S14/15 subframe. (I used a R33 non-Hicas subframe, R34/S15 subframes have more gusseting, I also welded in a GKtech subframe reinforcing kit.)

2, Offset subframe bushes (I used the GKtech solid offset bushes, these mount the subframe up a lot higher which is better for roll centre and will require a little "massage" of the floor pan on the front on either side of the subframe, test fit the subframe before mounting the diff and arms on it.....all will become obvious)

3, R33/S14 lower suspension arms (you can still use the R32 arms but will need spacers/washers to pack out the difference on the inside mounts

4, R32 upper arms (I made the mistake of buying brand new R33 top arms thinking they would be required.....but they foul on the shocks) 

5, Driveshaft Spacers (I used the GKtech 10mm ones. There is some differing thoughts as to whether these are required, but I figured if the R33 subframe is 10mm wider on either side then I would put them in to avoid damaging the CV joints)

6, R33/S14 Tie Rods and Bushes (If you are getting rid of the Hicas by going to a non-Hicas subframe like I did you will need these and something like a set of Whiteline bushes to replace the ball joints that are in the hubs for the Hicas tie rods)

7, R32 ARB (seems to still fit, the mounts are spaced a little further apart)

IMG_0509.JPG

Edited by Sub Boy32
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...