Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

First time user here. Be good to get amongst the proud V35 owners of Australia.

Picking my new beast up next saturday from Melbourne and enjoying the lovely drive back to Adelaide. So PUMPED!

Im getting a 2003 V35 in black, Premium model with brand new 18s and a 3 year nation wide warranty with only 53,000kms on the clock for $22,000.

Any thoughts to some of the first things i should improve?

Look forward to talk all things V with you guys in the many years (hopefully) to come

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389715-new-v35/
Share on other sites

Wow $22k for a black one with those km seems MUCH too cheap .... make sure you get a thorough mechanical check done on it before you hand over $$$.

It will be nice to see another black V35 around Adelaide - join up to SAU:SA (www.sausa.com.au) if you want to come on our club cruises, track days, dinners, go-kart nights, etc etc).

Congrats on choosing to buy the best car (for the money) in the world!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389715-new-v35/#findComment-6208416
Share on other sites

^Nope take a look at carsales.com.au and you'll see a lot of series 1 models for that sort of price and cheaper.... The fact is these cars are getting cheaper and cheaper - I ran a search on J-Spec's website using the auction prices feature, filtering down to only 2006 and 2007 series 3 coupes and got an average 'landed and complied' price of $26,000 for cars hich have been auctioned in recent months. Factor in on-roads and you'd still be looking at under $28k for a series 3.

As Nightcrawler said you will want to get a thorough mechanical check done, there is every chance the KMs are not genuine - unless you have the Jap service records or get sound mechanical advice saying otherwise. A couple of good indications of whether the kms are genuine or not include checking the drive belts for cracks (they should start showing cracks at around about 50,000kms), checking the in-cabin air filter (it may have a sticker on it telling you how many kms the car had done when it was last changed!), check for rust on the underbody, wear and tear on the upholstery etc... Not wanting to burst your bubble but I'm speaking from experience. My first V35 which is no longer in the land of the living (accident not mechanical problems!) was a 2003 and the kms were most likely not genuine, but that said mechanical and my own visual inspections still left me satisfied it was still in very good condition. That to me is the most important thing.

Good luck with your purchase and as Nightcrawler said, you are investing in the best bang for buck car out there :thumbsup:

Edited by MSKYO
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389715-new-v35/#findComment-6208575
Share on other sites

Hey guys, thanks for your input.

Definately not a sedan haha made sure of that.

Ive organised a mechanical check for this week from a melbourne inspection company. So that's all good.

I knocked the price down from 23,990. But all of these types are all around that price range. Fingers crossed im not getting a lemon!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389715-new-v35/#findComment-6208592
Share on other sites

^Nope take a look at carsales.com.au and you'll see a lot of series 1 models for that sort of price and cheaper.... The fact is these cars are getting cheaper and cheaper - I ran a search on J-Spec's website using the auction prices feature, filtering down to only 2006 and 2007 series 3 coupes and got an average 'landed and complied' price of $26,000 for cars hich have been auctioned in recent months. Factor in on-roads and you'd still be looking at under $28k for a series 3.

As Nightcrawler said you will want to get a thorough mechanical check done, there is every chance the KMs are not genuine - unless you have the Jap service records or get sound mechanical advice saying otherwise. A couple of good indications of whether the kms are genuine or not include checking the drive belts for cracks (they should start showing cracks at around about 50,000kms), checking the in-cabin air filter (it may have a sticker on it telling you how many kms the car had done when it was last changed!), check for rust on the underbody, wear and tear on the upholstery etc... Not wanting to burst your bubble but I'm speaking from experience. My first V35 which is no longer in the land of the living (accident not mechanical problems!) was a 2003 and the kms were most likely not genuine, but that said mechanical and my own visual inspections still left me satisfied it was still in very good condition. That to me is the most important thing.

Good luck with your purchase and as Nightcrawler said, you are investing in the best bang for buck car out there :thumbsup:

I just had a look on CarSales - fact is that there are black ones on there for as high as $38k (dreamers), and VERY few below $25k ... so buying one from a dealer for much less than private ones go for is a warning sign.

PLUS, ANY dealer adds a MINIMUM of $5k price on the price you can import one yourself .... so by your own admission Series 3s should be well over $30k ....

It is really only the silver ones that have seen massive price drops - when I paid $30k for my black one 2.5 years ago the yard offered me a silver one with same spec/kms for $22k ... all the way back then.

But I agree - NONE of the V35s in Aus have genuine kms .... mine supposedly had 48k on it when I bought it, but that was a load of bull due to the various factors you have pointed out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389715-new-v35/#findComment-6208600
Share on other sites

^^^ bollocks to that - there is a guy in Sydney that will come to you and change your ODO via consult for $100 and it is completely untraceable. How do you think there are so namy 20-40,000km V35s for sale in yards in Sydney (one particular yard is VERY famous for it - there ave been threads on SAU even about it), yet when you go search the Jp auction sites they are very few and far between.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389715-new-v35/#findComment-6208659
Share on other sites

lucky for me that i didnt buy my car from a shotty dealer in sydney. direct from a company up here.

Once the inspection has taken place, AIS guarantees the quality of inspection

by placing a sticker on the windscreen and issuing a corresponding certificate to

the shipper or importer. The AIS odometer inspection process takes the overall

condition of the vehicle, the service/maintenance records, the odometer reading into consideration.

The vehicle is then put through the Japanese National Auction Association (NAK) odometer reading database to verify that the actual mileage of the vehicle measures up to the other information gather about the vehicle. This process takes between 9 – 12 minutes. In cases when it is considered that the odometer has been tampered with illegally, the odometer is then removed and undergoes a further inspection to establish its accurattecy and to find signs of tampering. This secondary process takes up to 2 hours and comes complete with an inspection report with photos of the tampering and comments by the inspecto

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389715-new-v35/#findComment-6208668
Share on other sites

But I agree - NONE of the V35s in Aus have genuine kms .... mine supposedly had 48k on it when I bought it, but that was a load of bull due to the various factors you have pointed out.

Based on the factors mentioned, I think the KM on mine were genuine, or at least close to genuine. it showed 76,000km when I bought it, and only minimal sings of wear on the drivers seat, carpets, pedals, gear shifter (6MT), and only minimal lip on the brake rotors. The drive belts were fairly shagged so I am guessing they were original. It does have a coupe of squeaks, but nothing like what you expect from a car with 100,000+Km. Similar amount of wear as my wife's car which as 61,000km on it.

If it had been wound back, it must have been 'babied' most of it's life.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389715-new-v35/#findComment-6208717
Share on other sites

Yeah my car at a supposed 48,000km had a fair amount of wear on the drivers seat and the rotors were absolutely lipped and almost shagged. The drivers door lock actuator had already failed and the drivers window periodically won't go up or down without half a dozen attempts at the switch.

liger that looks good - I have never seen that before. Today Tonight should get them to go down to the car yards in Sydney and look at all the cars down there - would make for a GREAT news story!

As I said above, when I was looking to buy a V35 the amount of 2003 V35s with 25,000-30,000km on the clock in Sydney yards was amazing - yet when I subscribed to the Jp auction sites and Prstige/JSpec they were extremely few and far between. Almost all had 50,000km+, which is still quite low really for a 5-6 year old car at the time - even for Jp cars.

At the end of the day as long as you are happy with the car it doesn't matter what the ODO says .... until it hits near 100,000km like mine does and the lower control arm and a heap of other bushes are rooted - the retail to buy them all, press them in and labour involved is around $2k. Unless you can do it yourself like me. Also of concern is that if a car is wound back and the 100,000km service is not done until say 150,000km you run the risk of snapping a worn belt or your water pump failing/cavitating and you probably wouldn't know it until you cooked your motor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389715-new-v35/#findComment-6208999
Share on other sites

good luck mate.you are getting a beautiful car to cruise around in

i bought mine about 11/2 yrs ago from a guy who bought it from Japan

it has full japs log book with 55000 km , one owner.

its my daily and never have any issue or what soever.

wanted a change but every time i decided to keep it !!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389715-new-v35/#findComment-6210841
Share on other sites

purchased mine privately here in Perth at 34,000kms. The bloke who had it b4 me imported it at about 19,000kms and they were genuine, as long as the Jap auction sheet is :)

Having said that, there was no wear on the carpets and the seats were like new so they were likely genuine K's.

Edited by mosoto
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389715-new-v35/#findComment-6210911
Share on other sites

^^^ yeah that is the key - the Jp auction sheet. I guarantee you pretty much NO car yard in Australia will give or show you the Jp auction sheet - most will claim "we bought it from a yard in Jp so it has no auction sheet" - if that is the case ask for the dereg papers (which EVERY car has to have before leaving Japan), which always have the genuine Jp kms. They won't even show you these, as they know all the ODOs have been doctored when the cars come into Aus.

I actually found the auction sheet of a V35 sedan (here on a lot in Adelaide) stuffed in the bottom of the glove box under other stuff. It showed that the ODO was not correct, AND the car had had major rear end repairs so should never have been brought and complied here at all. Dodgy, dodgy, dodgy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389715-new-v35/#findComment-6210990
Share on other sites

I have a service sticker under my hood from Japan the KM and month on it matches the KM for when the car was imported with the KM that where on it, its a nissan service sticker to not some back yard mechanic, i have 120xxx on the clock on mine now im expecting around 18k if i sell it b4 150xxxkm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389715-new-v35/#findComment-6211364
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
×
×
  • Create New...