Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all have some parts sitting around after my rebuild.

A lot of parts good for any rb engine.

All parts came off working and in good condition

the list:

4x 265/35/18 nankang ns2 tyres, have camber wear on the fronts, tyres good for texi or skids $250

Standard BCNR33 radiator came off car when i bought it 107xxxkms $150

Std rb26 cam gears $35

Std GTR fuel pump good upgrade for rb20 $70

Std rb26 turbos no real shaft play evident in good condition just dirty from gasket leak $400

Std rb26 manifolds had plans to port for new setup but change my mind $70

Std BCNR33 dump pipes $50

Std Rb26 top feed injectors with resistor pack, good upgrade for rb20 $130

Std Rb26 water pump was put on car when 100000kms service was done only 25xxx kms on it still looks new $100

Std Rb26 AFMs with plugs $120

BCNR33 HICAS unit $100

Nismo top feed 600cc injectors only used for 10xxxkms, were cleaned and flow tested when bought off another forum member, work perfectly fine supports well over 330kw $650

BRAND NEW Tomei 87mm x 1.2mm head gaskey only test fitted to check clearances $270

Prefer NSW pick up, located sutherland shire

but can post at buyers expense

contact by PM on here thanks

post-71236-0-54912700-1327806937_thumb.jpgpost-71236-0-82659100-1327807326_thumb.jpgpost-71236-0-76591500-1327807315_thumb.jpgpost-71236-0-80426000-1327807301_thumb.jpgpost-71236-0-72386200-1327807284_thumb.jpgpost-71236-0-70669900-1327807272_thumb.jpgpost-71236-0-54912700-1327806937_thumb.jpgpost-71236-0-79044800-1327807357_thumb.jpgpost-71236-0-08414600-1327807374_thumb.jpgpost-71236-0-21700600-1327807387_thumb.jpgpost-71236-0-67286500-1327807402_thumb.jpgpost-71236-0-40953800-1327807421_thumb.jpgpost-71236-0-92721900-1327807447_thumb.jpgpost-71236-0-52610600-1327807474_thumb.jpgpost-71236-0-78018400-1327807484_thumb.jpg

post-71236-0-19477100-1327807495_thumb.jpg

post-71236-0-58205700-1327807342_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389767-r33-gtr-parts-and-others/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...