Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 months later...
  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

has anyone actually done any back to back performance testing on lightweight shafts vs stock?

in principal, all its doing is reducing some rotational inertia in the driveline, just like getting a lightweight flywheel (which i've done, and can confirm made no noticeable difference, not even a placebo effect).

i think the weight savings sound great on paper, but by the time the driveline takes load, any weight savings (and effects of) turn out to be pretty negligible and unsubstantial in the grand scheme of things.

you wont even get wank factor because no one will even see it lol

a lightweight prop shaft (and wheels etc) reduces rotational inertia in the driveline. A lightweight flywheel reduces inertia on the rpm of the engine , ie , improves ramp speeds in rpm which gives quicker revs with no weight behind it (on off throttle etc or free rev), it wont make much difference to the cars acceleration, thats why you didnt notice it. a combination of all factors makes all the difference.

yeah true thats what i was thinking, the combination of both factors would definitely be greater than any one on their own. but even then, what was the actual gain in performance? would it be substantial, reasonable or negligible?

and then considering the cost, is it worth it? thats up to each driver to decide.. but in my mind i'm skeptical.

and yes i realise the flywheel only effects the ramp speeds in rpm of the engine with no load, but once under load it then adds to the sum of rotational mass within the driveline, so both contribute to performance in that aspect in the same way.

  • 2 years later...

Hi guys,

I would like to revive this topic because I would like to get one and I have not heard many feedback from the CTG/Torqline driveshaft, about the vibration in high speed driving. Besides the more statistic the better.

Thanks in advance.

The main issue with one piece shafts of any kind is they need to be perfectly aligned off the gearbox to the diff for there to be no vibration. I have worked on a few of these one piece upgrades and most have vibration. Carbon would likely make the issue worse.

  • 3 weeks later...

I'd be interested in knowing if the boys bought the shafts and what they thought of them.

I'd have to be due for a tailshaft rebuild soon and one of these might be price wise a better option.

Cheers

Neil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Right, its been a while for updating this car, but I made some small but important progress today. In the end I bought an Ecutek dongle from the Australian distributor Tunehouse (for local hardware support) but have gone with a remote tune from Racebox in the US (because they have done millions of these, and I could not find any tuner where I could access the tune anyway as they are all password locked). The App is reasonably easy to work with, but the PC software reminds me of Haltech's ECU Manager that you need to use with the Plat Pro ECUs, it is a nightmare.  Anyway, I sent the details over, got back a tune file and a request for data logs. I finally got a chance to access a private test track today as they want redline logs in 3rd and 4th, and have sent them back for the first round of reviews. The main difference in the tune is going from 1.0 (stock) to 1.3 bar (19psi), although I'm sure is a lot of other stuff in the background. Keeping in mind this is a dead stock car with 125,000klm, this is what the App's performance test claimed: Before After Interesting to note that both 400m tests had the same terminal speed (158klm/h) but different ETs. And no, the speed limiter seems to be higher than that at 186kl/h. Summary of the key logged parameters for the 3rd and 4th gear runs were: Those little turbos were certainly whizzing at 200,000rpm+.  Also I'm really not that excited about oil pressure 55psi at redline so I think I'll go thicker than 5w30 (nissan recommend 0w20....) and see if that improves it. Other than that (and the big boost spike....) everything looks good as a start to me.
    • Just one more post to show the final result and the original "janky" solution for a laugh. Everything feels really tight and no wobbling at all, very pleased 🙂
    • After drying a few days, time to put her back together 
    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
×
×
  • Create New...