Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Need to clear all the below as i no longer require and want gone.

Apexi EL boost gauge - $50 (Note: the blue lighting for the numbers doesnt work, only needle lights red) changed cos got missus a Blitz like mine :)

bought brand new last week installed and uninstalled by Daniel from Carbon Systems. Not sure why light didnt work just replaced (seems to be common).

S15 Modified Pewter front bar. Professionally modified to fit onto Blitz cooler with grills and middle taken out and plastic filled (has stone chips from M4) changing to aero - $350 o.n.o

IMG_1085.jpg

Turbosmart Eboost Street . Like new, nothing wrong with it just don't require anymore.

* NOTE: Just purchased brand new solenoid fo rit

$350 ono

IMG_0994.jpg

IMG_0995.jpg

Visors - $50 (immaculate)

IMG_0645.jpg

S15 Stock Sway Bars - $100

IMG_0834.jpg

TRD Black Shift (33504-SP020-20)

Wrong item sent to me in error... Brand new un opened just recieved it 20/12/2011 yours for $50

5・6M/T, Floor shift vehicle

(Except SUPRA JZA80 6M/T model.)

M12×1.25, Resin,

Caved TRD logo

Included 2 types shift pattern sticker(5M/T×1/6M/T×1)

IMG_1076.jpg

http://trdparts.jp/english/parts_shift-knob.html

PM or 0433375319

Thanks,

Jason

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • There's more than one way to skin that cat, and most of the sump Maatouks have done will be GTR sumps. They are HUGE in GTR drag racing here.
    • Yeah...I always start at the shift solenoids, because there's only a few reasons these will spook into limp mode, and bad shift solenoids is one ~ the other can be the shift control module (if you have steering wheel shift buttons)...it's easier to eliminate the solenoids first.
    • Might piggy back off this thread since there's been a good discussion about PWM.   I purchased a Walbro 460 F90000267 and have been looking into PWM to understand it. It was purchased more of a future proof as my original OEM fuel pump died (r33 below 200kw) and figured I'd just upgrade it to this. That's when it hit me that a pump this big can cause more dramas with such high amperage draw and heating of the fuel pump being on 100% all the time in such a mild setup.   I have a Nexus R3 and slowly collecting power mods but I was looking into the PWM feature on the NSP software:   Then looking at the graph from the fuel pump:     Am I safe to assume reducing duty cycle to 50% for example would make the pump run like a 230/lph ? Where does the PWM come in all of this ?   I've gone down the rabbit hole of PWM fuel pumps and it seems there are many differing opinions on how to go about it 😅  
    • Thank you, this will keep me busy for a bit.  I will update progression.
    • That specific one would be an exchange part, meaning I'd have to send mine to them. Plus it looks like a non AWD sump, which won't work for me. There is one or two shops in my country that I can ask to do a sump extension job and it'd most likely end up being cheaper than sending mine to AUS or NZ and getting one back, and quicker too.
×
×
  • Create New...