Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a Clarion VZ400A headunit, and the other day I had the battery disconnected. When I reconnected it, the headunit prompted me to enter the anti-theft PIN. First couple didn't work - even though I was sure I had it right, and next thing I know I'm locked out.

Clarion tell me I have to send it to them, and it'll cost me $118 plus the cost of shipping it to them. No one local in Adelaide can do it apparently. My local repairer is following up and will let me know if they find anything.

Does anyone know if there's an alternative? The deck was only ~$400 anyway, not sure I want to spend over 1/4 of that just to reset it. Surely there is something I can do myself?

Any experience, thoughts, suggestions, etc would be great. Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389946-locked-clarion-headunit-unlock/
Share on other sites

damn we used to just pick up the phone and call clarion,, blaupunkt to unlock the deck with dealer id and sn# handy . did they change the setup , havent touched one of either in many years.

can I say ryan your mod shopping list of items in your profile is a theft waiting to happen, I would advise agaist the exact details of what the car has in public fourms . my advice to you , take it or leave it

Edited by Carbon 34

Good point Troy, was thinking about reducing it anyway. Other side is it helps new guys work out what to shop for, but they ask anyway... :whistling:

I did pick up the phone and call Clarion to try and sort this. They've been helpful identifying the shortcomings of their headunits, however in this case it was simply 'Remove the headunit and mail it to us'.

I've got the local repairer working on it and is going to call me back, but they told me they didn't have the jig to fix it so they're looking for an alternative (they haven't looked at it yet - it's still in the car).

I'm inclined to remove it, and either repair it and sell it, or sell it for someone else to fix, since I wasn't 100% on it. Just hadn't made my mind up about replacing it yet.

Was speaking to a few places today, looks like I'll give Clarion warranty another shot.

I was certain I had the code right, and apparently there have been reports of Clarion decks 'forgetting' the security code. I'll chase it up with them and see if they'll do anything.

I remember back when I was in high school, we had a laptop computer program. Macs running the latest and greatest MacOS 7.5.3 system. A few of the geeks ran password protection, and quickly found if you had a space in your password, the password would become corrupted and your computer would have to be formatted to get it unlocked and working again.

Seems like times haven't changed too much...

Not sure if this will help anyone else, but I found out some things on Friday.

Ends up I did have the code wrong, my bad.

However it also ends up that Clarion weren't entirely honest, and if you disconnect and reconnect the power enough times (3-4?) it reverts from the locked screen to give you the keypad. You then get three cracks to guess the code before you lock it again, so have to goes, turn the car off, back on, another two goes, etc until you get it right.

Sounds like a pain, and probably easier not to use that feature. I've now recorded my code in Evernote so I can put it in later if needed, and hopefully this helps someone else.

YOU DO NOT NEED TO SEND IT BACK TO CLARION! They replace an IC in the deck if you need the password reset. If you just need it unbricked to have another crack, you can do it yourself, without sending it back to Clarion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...