Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil In Spark Plug Hole

GT-Rr32
 Share

Recommended Posts

pv35gt8 Collaborator

pv35gt8

Posted
Posted

If there is only a small amount of oil in there, then dont worry too much.

If there is a lot of oil in there, you will have to replace the rocker cover. It will be leaking past the seal on top of the spark plug tube and can only be replaced with a new rocker cover, others have tried just to replace that seal and havn't won.

GT-Rr32 Enthusiast

GT-Rr32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If it was only a simply cheap gasket it would be understandable but to fix it you need to buy a new valve cover and gasket which is $250+ just for parts.

My rb26 in my GTR never leaked .....

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

As others have said; this is a common fult with VQ's. It's also a pain that the plug sealing O rings are not replaceable like most of these style of rocker covers.

As the spark plug replacement interval is 80,000km it has likely taken quite some time to fill up.

Mine had a decent amount in the passengers side rear plug when I changed my plugs, but 13,000km later, mine is still dry; so maybe replace the plugs and monitor the leak before dropping decent dollars on a new rocker cover.

I found VQ35 rocker covers cheaper than $250 on Ebay from a Nissan dealer in the States, so that might be worth checking. The reason I didn't buy them is because they are slightly different to the VQ25det rocker covers that I needed; I had expected they would all be identical.

Edited by Daleo
sonicii Veteran

sonicii

Posted
Posted

ok.. so the 'VQ problem' is the fact the whole cover needs to be replaced, not that it leaks at some point? as every car I have ever owned has had a rocker cover gasket leak at some point, but is generally fixed with just a rocker cover gasket.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

As has been said, the seal around the plug tube goes hard and leaks. It is not able to be replaced as its molded into the rocker cover. Time for a new cover, or you can try removing the cover and sealing it with a little silicone if you are strapped for cash, just make sure its dry before you run the engine as it wont take much to block vital oil pathways.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      I for one welcome Nissda.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • Murray_Calavera
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • r32-25t
      I for one welcome Nissda.

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...