Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have, they are the ones telling me 2-3 week for making them up.

Tempted to grab some out of a 180SX from someone wrecking. Not sure if the engineer will be happy with that and waiting to get his feedback. My understanding is that for a pre 89 car they only have to comply with ADR, not be new

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389972-seat-belts/#findComment-6211534
Share on other sites

Thank is correct that the seat belts must be ADR approved and be in good condition, not necessarily new .. however they need to be the correct belts for the exact car, you can't just grab some from another model car as they will not work correctly with the specific angles of installation, etc. so the engineer should never approve it if they aren't correct for your car.

Klippan are the manufacturers so your only option would be to wait for them to have some ready for you, or call around auto parts stores and wreckers all over Australia (and New Zealand where Sierra's were semi-common) to see if you can find someone with some sitting around already.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389972-seat-belts/#findComment-6211543
Share on other sites

Yeh, I have measured them up and the retractor are all vertical mount on the side of the car and perpendicular. So they have to be mounted in the vertical pointing straight up with no angle in the belt. The sash guide is directly above the retractor. Hopefully a 180SX or something is similar. Belts need to be 2.35m

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389972-seat-belts/#findComment-6211563
Share on other sites

Still if the belts fitted are not exactly correct then the engineer must reject them, and they shouldn't just check that they work but should check part numbers to make sure they are correct for the car. Once the car is passed the engineer and is registered then you can do whatever you like and if you have belts fitted that are close to original specs then that is up to you, however I have seen belts fitted that were just a few degrees out which failed to lock when needed so personally I would just wait a couple of weeks for the right parts and in the meantime call around for second hand ones.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389972-seat-belts/#findComment-6211675
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
    • I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.
    • Got started on the modification to make these splash plates fit over the long weekend. First the surprisingly time consuming task of swapping all the cam cap bolts to Tomei cam cap studs. I did the method of removing one bolt at a time, applying loctite to the stud, double nutting to torque as the manual described. Then carefully unlocking the nuts without disrupting the torque of the stud (and going back to re-torque a few times when it slipped). Finally applying the nut and torquing to spec. Repeat x28 Next up I went about removing the stock cam cover baffle so I could ensure it was fully clean after drilling for stud clearance.  As the blind rivets holding the baffle on were domed I used a punch to mark the center then used 4mm drill bit to carefully drill out the rivet without going too far part the baffle. As seen in other thread here is what is inside the stock baffles I decided on M4x6mm bolts to bolt the baffle plate back on with. I used a 3.3mm drill bit with some tape to mark the depth at ~8mm. Next was to tap the threads using a cheap bunnings kit M4x0.7. With the baffle removed I also drilled out the spot welds holding in the baffle plate oil returns. Unsure whether this was the best option or if I should have cut holes in the Hypertune splash plates to allow the oil drains to still function... time will tell. I then removed the the Hypertune splash plates so I could rest the cam cover on top and use a dab of grease to mark where the studs impacted the oem cam cover baffle. The most obvious spot was on the hump from the stock mesh is held. Using this hole as an anchor I bolted the oem baffle plate back into the cam cover and lined up the Hypertune splash plate. Marked the rest of the holes for the studs and drill those out too. Total 32 holes drilled and 12 threads tapped on the passenger side cam cover alone for this bolt on part that totally clears all OEM cam covers.. Drivers side next as well as some E85 safe fuel foam to fill the space behind the behind cam cover baffle plates. oh and some lock nuts for the splash plates of course.
×
×
  • Create New...