Jump to content
SAU Community

Seven questions

two40

By two40,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

two40 Grand Master

two40

Posted
Posted

I might sound stupid asking some of these questions but I have a thirst to learn so here goes...

1.I read this sentence in Zoom. 'The motor is dry-sumped to prevent oil starvation during its insane launches' What does dry-sumped mean?

2.'The heads have been ported and polished and fitted with Escort Racing double valve springs and titanium retainers' What's involved in porting and polishing heads? Making them bigger??

3.I hear ppl talking about valve springs, what are they, what do they do?

4.How does an air-shifted transmission work?

5.What are conrods, what do they do?

6.What in the bloody hell does a headgasket do? Why do you need a thicker one when running higher boost? What materials are used and which ones are best to use?

7.The how, what & why of dump pipes.

I've numbered them to avoid confusion and generally make things easier to refer to. I'm sure I'm not the only one that will benifit from the answers so bring it on ppl.

Oh and thanks in advance :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390-seven-questions/
Share on other sites
meggala Grand Master

meggala

Posted
Posted

dry sumped mean exteranl oil supply for better flow.

porting is when you make the inlets and out lets of a head bigg so more air can get in and the air can get out faster after the explosion. the valve springs and the the thing on top of the valves that push them closed so an explosion can take place. you up grade then when you have a higher rev limit cause instead of up to 700 explosions a minuite there are 8000 or 9000. up gradeing generall mean stiffening them.

air shifted trans don't really know but at 10 nto an option for the street.

conrods join the piston to the crank.

the head gasket seals the surface between the head and the block a thicker one lowers the compression so you hcan have a biigger explosion in the combustion chamber with out pre ignition.

the dump pipe question

they are better cause they get rid of the gas quicker after the explosion than stock ones. cause they separate the the exhaust gasses.

any more questions

meggala

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390-seven-questions/#findComment-11362
Share on other sites
two40 Grand Master

two40

Posted
  • Author
Posted
the dump pipe question

they are better cause they get rid of the gas quicker after the explosion than stock ones. cause they separate the the exhaust gasses.

any more questions

meggala[/quote:fb18fa6b9c]

I knew you'd come through steve, cheers.

...so re the dump pipes, is it just a type of exhaust manifold but with better flow capabilities? why/how do they seperate the exhaust gasses?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390-seven-questions/#findComment-11363
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Shoota_77
      Car Rotisserie

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      nvm this comment
×
×
  • Create New...