Jump to content
SAU Community

Seven questions

two40

By two40,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

two40 Grand Master

two40

Posted
Posted

I might sound stupid asking some of these questions but I have a thirst to learn so here goes...

1.I read this sentence in Zoom. 'The motor is dry-sumped to prevent oil starvation during its insane launches' What does dry-sumped mean?

2.'The heads have been ported and polished and fitted with Escort Racing double valve springs and titanium retainers' What's involved in porting and polishing heads? Making them bigger??

3.I hear ppl talking about valve springs, what are they, what do they do?

4.How does an air-shifted transmission work?

5.What are conrods, what do they do?

6.What in the bloody hell does a headgasket do? Why do you need a thicker one when running higher boost? What materials are used and which ones are best to use?

7.The how, what & why of dump pipes.

I've numbered them to avoid confusion and generally make things easier to refer to. I'm sure I'm not the only one that will benifit from the answers so bring it on ppl.

Oh and thanks in advance :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390-seven-questions/
Share on other sites
meggala Grand Master

meggala

Posted
Posted

dry sumped mean exteranl oil supply for better flow.

porting is when you make the inlets and out lets of a head bigg so more air can get in and the air can get out faster after the explosion. the valve springs and the the thing on top of the valves that push them closed so an explosion can take place. you up grade then when you have a higher rev limit cause instead of up to 700 explosions a minuite there are 8000 or 9000. up gradeing generall mean stiffening them.

air shifted trans don't really know but at 10 nto an option for the street.

conrods join the piston to the crank.

the head gasket seals the surface between the head and the block a thicker one lowers the compression so you hcan have a biigger explosion in the combustion chamber with out pre ignition.

the dump pipe question

they are better cause they get rid of the gas quicker after the explosion than stock ones. cause they separate the the exhaust gasses.

any more questions

meggala

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390-seven-questions/#findComment-11362
Share on other sites
two40 Grand Master

two40

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  Quote
the dump pipe question

they are better cause they get rid of the gas quicker after the explosion than stock ones. cause they separate the the exhaust gasses.

any more questions

meggala[/quote:fb18fa6b9c]

I knew you'd come through steve, cheers.

...so re the dump pipes, is it just a type of exhaust manifold but with better flow capabilities? why/how do they seperate the exhaust gasses?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390-seven-questions/#findComment-11363
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • sunsetR33
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...