Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay,

So my current diff is on its way out - the usual whines, clunks and noises that come from a diff which has done 170,000 kms.

So in saying that, I'm on the lookout for a replacement...

1st choice (cheapest) would be to overhaul & shim up the diff I have in the car -

advantages: fixes the clunks noises etc., locks better that currently, cheap

disadvantages: its a V-LSD. They have average performance at best. Shimming accelerates wear on the crown wheel from what I had read and overall is just a bandaid for a bullet wound.

2nd choice would be to purchase a new or used Nismo/OS Giken/Cusco etc. -

advantages: Nismo item is comfortable (almost) as OEM, locks consistently, considerably newer item overall

disadvantages: costly, if 2nd hand unknown condition etc.

3rd choice would be to install a diff from another car i.e. S15 torsen diff -

advantages: locks consistently (except for in zero traction environment), cheap

disadvantages: zero traction = zero lock (driveways etc.), unknown condition

What is your thoughts? Which path should I go down considering that cost, effectiveness, performance and condition of the item all need to be considered...

Cheers,

David

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390011-differential-choices-for-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

I'm currently in the process of doing #3. Is turning out to be more expensive than I expected though. I initially bought a diff advertised as R34 manual LSD (which are supposed to be 4.11 and torsen). But it was a 4.11 VLSD. So either the specs on R34s were more flexible than I thought, or I got sold an R33 unit. Then I bought an S15 torsen centre. That seems fine, but the ratio is Silvia tall. So we built Frankendiff. Moved the 4.11 gears to the torsen centre and then put the lot into my R32 housing. Wasn't easy to get the CW&P set up correctly, so now it's at a diff shop getting set up. So there's $300+ for purchased diffs and a couple hundred coming up to pay the diff shop. Still worth it though I think.

Sorry forgot to add that...

Car is pretty much 95% street, 5% track.

2-way is pretty much out of the question. There is just no need for it.

GTSBoy:

Yeh it seems the cheapest way to go about it. Best of both worlds IMO (cheap & still locks well for the way I use my car). But like you said, its a big ordeal to get it all setup. Unfortunately you had the added expense of the extra diff :yucky:

Also, problem is finding a 1.5 Nismo diff.

They don't pop up very often.

I have also been told the half shafts (AKA stub shafts) are different from OEM and you need the correct halfshafts supplied with teh diff from Nismo. These also rarely pop up correct for my car i.e. 5X1 bolt pattern etc.

Think the issue is more David doesn't see buying a new one as value for money, $1400 is a shitload, see lots of 2nd hand 2 ways for ~500 that cost nothing to get the clutches machined and set up with non aggressive preload but he wants a 1.5 which almost never come up second hand, hence the question, buy a torsen for not much? buy a 2 way that is slightly more aggressive than he wants or pay way too much for a new 1.5?

Imo a nismo 2 way with mild preload would be fine as I've had one and it drove like stock, but I don't think david wants to compromise there. Which means either lots of money for new 1.5 or a torsen that will be better than stock but not as good as a 1.5 way.

Guess it comes down to 2 metrics, cost and performance, what is more important? If it is cost go torsen, if it is performance go a 1.5 way. Though the 2nd hand 2 way is screaming as a fantastic middle ground to me.

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/gt-lsd-pro

1.5 and 2 way listed there. Email and ask them, as im pretty sure the Nismo kit comes with new 1/2 shafts.

I picked up a Nismo 2 way 2nd hand for only $600 in apparently immaculate condition, i then sent it to a local diff expert and got him to rotate it to 1.5 way as it will see a lot of street work and occasional track, its yet to be driven on but condition looked mint inside, yes the half shafts are different to stock.

Just a quick note in regards to the half shafts, the Nismo LSD's are supplied with OEM Nissan half-shafts BUT, they are equal length (short IIRC) as opposed to the 1xlong/1xshort which is standard.

I picked up a Nismo 2 way 2nd hand for only $600 in apparently immaculate condition, i then sent it to a local diff expert and got him to rotate it to 1.5 way as it will see a lot of street work and occasional track, its yet to be driven on but condition looked mint inside, yes the half shafts are different to stock.

I bought my 2 way for $900 which was just run in (basically brand new). Came with new 1/2 shafts when I got it also.

I've noticed that you can indeed rotate the housings between 1,1.5,2 way on some diffs, didn't know you could do it with the nismos, that is interesting as hell!

Pretty sure it is just Nismo and Cusco that you can do it with, unsure if there are others but its an awesome option. The Nismo Pro (What i have) you need to dismantle it and rotate it, but i believe the Pro TT is better in design? Either way i was happy with the purchase!!

I bought my 2 way for $900 which was just run in (basically brand new). Came with new 1/2 shafts when I got it also.

That's a good buy!!! Its pretty hard to find R34GTT bits so i was stoked when i got my diff!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
    • I know right. It baffled me. There's no way when the engine is off, key is in ignition, (coils are dissconnected aswell), also my sound system was dissconnected (I don't run any audio capacitors), battery reads 12.2v and with the 10amp fuse blown I was measuring 24 to 30v. The reading would move a bit from 30v to 24v which was weird. I took a pic of the multi meter reading 🤣: (This is a brand new single channel digital oscilloscope that also has a multi meter mode).   Before when the fuse was blown, I had one lead on the 12v supply (green/white wires) of that brown relay and the other lead on the negative battery terminal. When I turned the key on ignition (engine off), it would read 30v. Then when I removed that relay from it's plug and tried putting ignition on again, it would read 12v, but I think it's because it can't turn on the ecu now that I removed it. I asked Chatgpt and this is what it had to say:   Not sure if those theories would be possible but, any auto sparkies here? welcome to confirm. 🤷‍♂️  No idea, but if it happens again, atleast I know what type of issue it is, unlike last few months where I didn't know what was causing all my issues and I was just taking stabs in the dark to figure out what type of problem it was. If it does happen again I'm going to investigate futher and trace back the source even more and inspect more circuits. I drove it to work this morning and the car drove and boosted fine. Yeah I was thinking the same, so I've imported my back up saved map (which is the map that I saved when it got done tuning) back onto my haltech with the base fuel pressure set to 43.5psi.
    • Yeh nice, if your in melbourne could you recommend any exhaust shops in the east that do a good job?
    • Sorry yes, this is what im after Also, that jpjdm site appears to be offline
×
×
  • Create New...