Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay,

So my current diff is on its way out - the usual whines, clunks and noises that come from a diff which has done 170,000 kms.

So in saying that, I'm on the lookout for a replacement...

1st choice (cheapest) would be to overhaul & shim up the diff I have in the car -

advantages: fixes the clunks noises etc., locks better that currently, cheap

disadvantages: its a V-LSD. They have average performance at best. Shimming accelerates wear on the crown wheel from what I had read and overall is just a bandaid for a bullet wound.

2nd choice would be to purchase a new or used Nismo/OS Giken/Cusco etc. -

advantages: Nismo item is comfortable (almost) as OEM, locks consistently, considerably newer item overall

disadvantages: costly, if 2nd hand unknown condition etc.

3rd choice would be to install a diff from another car i.e. S15 torsen diff -

advantages: locks consistently (except for in zero traction environment), cheap

disadvantages: zero traction = zero lock (driveways etc.), unknown condition

What is your thoughts? Which path should I go down considering that cost, effectiveness, performance and condition of the item all need to be considered...

Cheers,

David

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390011-differential-choices-for-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

I'm currently in the process of doing #3. Is turning out to be more expensive than I expected though. I initially bought a diff advertised as R34 manual LSD (which are supposed to be 4.11 and torsen). But it was a 4.11 VLSD. So either the specs on R34s were more flexible than I thought, or I got sold an R33 unit. Then I bought an S15 torsen centre. That seems fine, but the ratio is Silvia tall. So we built Frankendiff. Moved the 4.11 gears to the torsen centre and then put the lot into my R32 housing. Wasn't easy to get the CW&P set up correctly, so now it's at a diff shop getting set up. So there's $300+ for purchased diffs and a couple hundred coming up to pay the diff shop. Still worth it though I think.

Sorry forgot to add that...

Car is pretty much 95% street, 5% track.

2-way is pretty much out of the question. There is just no need for it.

GTSBoy:

Yeh it seems the cheapest way to go about it. Best of both worlds IMO (cheap & still locks well for the way I use my car). But like you said, its a big ordeal to get it all setup. Unfortunately you had the added expense of the extra diff :yucky:

Also, problem is finding a 1.5 Nismo diff.

They don't pop up very often.

I have also been told the half shafts (AKA stub shafts) are different from OEM and you need the correct halfshafts supplied with teh diff from Nismo. These also rarely pop up correct for my car i.e. 5X1 bolt pattern etc.

Think the issue is more David doesn't see buying a new one as value for money, $1400 is a shitload, see lots of 2nd hand 2 ways for ~500 that cost nothing to get the clutches machined and set up with non aggressive preload but he wants a 1.5 which almost never come up second hand, hence the question, buy a torsen for not much? buy a 2 way that is slightly more aggressive than he wants or pay way too much for a new 1.5?

Imo a nismo 2 way with mild preload would be fine as I've had one and it drove like stock, but I don't think david wants to compromise there. Which means either lots of money for new 1.5 or a torsen that will be better than stock but not as good as a 1.5 way.

Guess it comes down to 2 metrics, cost and performance, what is more important? If it is cost go torsen, if it is performance go a 1.5 way. Though the 2nd hand 2 way is screaming as a fantastic middle ground to me.

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/gt-lsd-pro

1.5 and 2 way listed there. Email and ask them, as im pretty sure the Nismo kit comes with new 1/2 shafts.

I picked up a Nismo 2 way 2nd hand for only $600 in apparently immaculate condition, i then sent it to a local diff expert and got him to rotate it to 1.5 way as it will see a lot of street work and occasional track, its yet to be driven on but condition looked mint inside, yes the half shafts are different to stock.

Just a quick note in regards to the half shafts, the Nismo LSD's are supplied with OEM Nissan half-shafts BUT, they are equal length (short IIRC) as opposed to the 1xlong/1xshort which is standard.

I picked up a Nismo 2 way 2nd hand for only $600 in apparently immaculate condition, i then sent it to a local diff expert and got him to rotate it to 1.5 way as it will see a lot of street work and occasional track, its yet to be driven on but condition looked mint inside, yes the half shafts are different to stock.

I bought my 2 way for $900 which was just run in (basically brand new). Came with new 1/2 shafts when I got it also.

I've noticed that you can indeed rotate the housings between 1,1.5,2 way on some diffs, didn't know you could do it with the nismos, that is interesting as hell!

Pretty sure it is just Nismo and Cusco that you can do it with, unsure if there are others but its an awesome option. The Nismo Pro (What i have) you need to dismantle it and rotate it, but i believe the Pro TT is better in design? Either way i was happy with the purchase!!

I bought my 2 way for $900 which was just run in (basically brand new). Came with new 1/2 shafts when I got it also.

That's a good buy!!! Its pretty hard to find R34GTT bits so i was stoked when i got my diff!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...