Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

Putting my R32 GTR track car up for sale, was originally purchased to get back on the road but due to unforeseen circumstances, the car now has to go. As the title says, the car is complied and has previously had registration in Victoria. The paint isn't in the best condition has started to fade on the bonnet and roof, part of the left hand quarter is in primer where rust was cut out and re-welded. Drivers side guard has been replaced (black). Crack in the front bar.

This is a 1990 R32 GTR, 230awkw, with a nice set of supporting mods.

I have had this car for just over a year and I loved every bit of her, but unfortunately she has to go.

Things required for RWC:

- small rust hole in the Left Rear Quarter Panel.

Car runs and drives no worries.

Colour: Purple/ Harlequin

RB26DETT

Std Turbos, been rebuilt by ATP on Dandenong Rd, with STEEL Wheels and R33 GTR specs.

Mines ECU, consisting of:

- 10PSi Boost

- Remapped Air/Fuel Ratios

- Rev Limiter Raised 300rpm

Drive-line:

- 5 Speed Manual

- Exedy Twin Plate Organic Clutch (80% Left)

- Power steering rack has been reconditioned

- Turbo Flange Gaskets have been replaced.

- Upgraded Brakes, Slotted Discs all round with 750 deg. brake pads, brand new 90%

Supporting Mods:

- TIEN Coilovers adj. all around

- Adj. Control Arms

- Aftermarket Steering Wheel

- Front Sway Bar

- Rear Strut Brace

- APEXi Pod Filters

- NISMO Turbo Back Exhaust (Legal dB Reading)

- Blitz Turbo Timer.

Car comes with complete interior (dash, seats, trims)

Car will come on R33GTST Rims with 50% Tread tyres.

Car was previously registered, previous owner received a canary and didn't clear it.

The running gear is very healthy, service just completed (oil, oil filter, diff and transmission fluids, and any tests welcome.

This will make a perfect project/track car, with the ability to be road registered. I think that I am asking a fair price, not over the top considering, modifications and registrable.

Can provide paperwork from Vicroads stating that there is no finance owing, never been in an accident.

Also have paperwork from Mines with information about the ECU.

Servicing undertaken at GC Motorworx.

Price: $10,000. NO SWAPS

Located: Victoria

Contact: PM or Text 0439990557

Photos will be uploaded this evening.

  • 2 weeks later...

looks like it needs alot of work befor its an attractive street car.

full paint job.

road worthy,

registration-

panel work.- as mentioned rust

who knows wat engine work needs done at least timing belt as that wasnt done or stated in ur first post...

canary to be cleared which is pain in the ass...

6k...?

spend atleast 6k -8k to get it to a presentable car. peopel are sellign theirs for 14k to 16k here with mods.

Probably has moe personal value to you then wat you could actuly sell it for? just keep it man...

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

HOLY CREP... what happened to this car? this is the car that I bought of you in sydney? and then I sold it when I was down here, and you bought it back again of whoever owned it after me???

WOW...

I was young and dumb back then. Live and learn!

Edited by bLaQ.bOi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 😃
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
    • Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.
    • Hopefully not, since he knows the fuses work ha ha ha
×
×
  • Create New...