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Interested in this Earls fitting part number also.

djr81 if your still looking for someone over in the West to help you out with your squirty motor, I'm happy to chat and advise on my set-up. I run a Tomei pump and do lots or laps up at Waneroo and have done for a couple of yrs now with the WASCC without any dramas wrt oil breathing in my 26.

Tried PM'ing you mate but think your inbox is full or something so it won't send.....

Wes 0438 233 610

Turns out they are Speedflow fittings, the guy I got the bits from is away ATM so I will know early in the week. It is a 90deg fitting with one side that can spin, and we just drilled and tapped my alloy Nismo cap ;)

Interested in this Earls fitting part number also.

djr81 if your still looking for someone over in the West to help you out with your squirty motor, I'm happy to chat and advise on my set-up. I run a Tomei pump and do lots or laps up at Waneroo and have done for a couple of yrs now with the WASCC without any dramas wrt oil breathing in my 26.

Tried PM'ing you mate but think your inbox is full or something so it won't send.....

Wes 0438 233 610

Cheers for the offer. As of last time out at Wroo I think I have it sorted. The thing managed a 55.0 short circuit on tyres so old they had sparks coming off them. :unsure:

The solution is to vent the blow by via a path that doesnt go through the back of the head. I think the most of the rest of it is bollocks - eg the Mines head baffles, tiny (<1.0mm) oil restrictors. Ofcourse venting the blowby is really just a bandaid, albeit a common one. It shouldnt happen in the first place but a relatively small amount of blowby appears to cause big probems in the RB's. There are no end of RB26 out there who have this issue but it isnt a problem as they are only driven on roads where it doesnt show up.

There is another discussion to be had about ring thickness, tension and selection - eg what forged pistons can I run and use Nissan rings?

Yeah look I don't run the cam cover baffles in mine either but use the top mount oil air separator which seems to be working well for me without an additional catch can. About to wind a bit more power into her so will see if that changes things wrt breathing which I dare say it might. Wes

Yeah look I don't run the cam cover baffles in mine either but use the top mount oil air separator which seems to be working well for me without an additional catch can. About to wind a bit more power into her so will see if that changes things wrt breathing which I dare say it might. Wes

I had the Mines baffles fitted so couldnt run a top mount as the two dont go together.

Who you getting your engine done by?

Also you should enter the next Wroo Speed Event Sprint.

Not sure why you couldn't still run the top mount air separator as my mate does and his has the mines rocker cover baffles fitted up?

Shaun at Allstar Garage re-tuned it this morning for us. He put the initial tune in it (435 rwhp) and couldn't have been happier over the last few yrs with the way it has run. Re-tune today ended up with 487rwhp at 22psi so hopefully htis doesn't create any breathing issues. Will see next w.e. at the next tuning day I spose.

I didn't mention previously and probly should have (as it may effect the intentions of this thread) but my engine has been opened up and is running new rods, pistions bearings, tomei oil pump etc so has had a freshen up. This may be why it runs without alot of the oil breathing probs many guys have when tracking their cars. I do run a tomei head oil restrictor (not sure on size but can confirm if need be) which I believe goes someway towards helping eliminate oil starvation probs and also feel it must do something towards engine breathing probs (lets not get started on the debate) with the work my car does at the track at it's current tune.

Yeah have done a few timed events this year and last such as one of the no limits nights, a HSV club day (dont ask) with a few other skyline boys and many many WASCC tuning days. Have my own timing set-up, so get that out regularly to make sure were making progress ;) Plan on doing the next regularity event the WASCC holds as these are good events that force you to pick a time in which you have to try consitently meet.

Wes

  • 6 months later...

Ok Ladies and Gents, I went out to the track with my new catch can set up and it works mint... My standard RB26 managed to spit about 2L of oil (which all got caught in the catch can) over 5 sessions at Barbagallo. So the catch can worked great, but my oil level went from the hump of the dipstick to low during the night, it's not really optimal to have to try and remove the catch can, drain it and then put it back in the motor during events so I'm looking for a solution.

My catch can has a -10 drain on the bottom designed to be returned to the sump but foolishly we didn't weld on a fitting on the sump when the motor was out. At the moment it's just blanked off but considering how much oil was in the catch can and how "clean" it was I'm really keen to return to the sump. So my options as I see it are;

  1. Run a -10 line from the catch can around the back of the block above the bell housing and to the rear turbo oil drain with an inline one way valve. The advantage is the rear oil drain is currently blanked and not doing anything and technically it's on the "right" side of the motor so should drain under most conditions as the crank will be creating vacuum and pulling in the oil. The issue is it's going to be a very long line and gravity may take a while to drain over that distance.
  2. Run a -10 line to above the oil of the drivers side of the sump. The problem being I'm not keen in removing the motor (so would have to be very careful drilling and tapping the sump for the fitting while the motor was in the car)

Comments/suggestions etc are welcome? Most keen to go option 1 as it's going to be a fairly easy fix, just wondering if everyone thinks it should work ok.

There is always the Nismo can that drains back into the sump via the rear turbo oil return line.

Anyway before you get too excited I would recommend a few laps of Collie and see how that goes. The anti clockwise nature of the circuit makes is much, much harder to sort out your oiling issues.

Ok a little more information, this is my set up at the moment.

20130108_180747.jpg

20121214_181238.jpg

with a K&N filter on top of the catch can.

The catch can has steel wool and baffles that almost 100% separates the oil from the air before venting, so much so that of the 2L of oil that went into the catch can about 3 drops came out the filter. It's the same set up that is used by the Western Australians that do plenty of track work at Barbs and Collie, the only difference being that they then drain back to the sump, which is why I asked the question I did.


I don't want to drain back to the head, because oil in the head is causing the issue. I just want to get the oil from the catch can back in the sump (if you look closely at the second picture you can see the -10 drain at the bottom of the catch can). I don't see myself as having a oiling issue, I know this set up works and it works well, I just have an issue with not having an easy way to get the oil back to the sump.

Edited by SimonR32

The question is then, how many spots in the sump have you got available? Obviously there is a drain plug and the return oil from the turbos. Nismo use the latter for their catch can. So maybe replicate that if you think your catch can will contain the oil from one run.

The question is then, how many spots in the sump have you got available? Obviously there is a drain plug and the return oil from the turbos. Nismo use the latter for their catch can. So maybe replicate that if you think your catch can will contain the oil from one run.

The only spot available currently is the rear oil drain (the issue being getting the line from the catch can to that drain) or the other potential option is we drill and tap the sump on the drivers side.

The catch can took 2L of oil after 7 laps of long track and 3 laps of short track at Barbagallo. That left my sump with just over low on the dip stick which is just enough to be on the safe side considering I have a Greddy extended sump and pickup. So even if nothing drained back during the run I could do 10 laps and still be ok, other stuff on the car is going to give up before then.

Edited by SimonR32

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