Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so the above was a fail, still getting plenty of oil in the catch can (about 100ml per lap) so back to the drawing board.

Luckily (unluckily but I'm being optimistic) I went to the track the other night in the wet and the excess front wheelspin has lunched the front diff so the motor is coming out. I have a Greddy extended sump so I'm now planning on getting 2 x dash 10 fittings welded to the passenger (intake) side at the front above the oil line. Going to remove that other line to the rear turbo oil drain and just blank it off again at the same time at it didn't seem to help.

I plan on one of the dash 10 lines going to the top of the catch can next to the cover breathers as a sump breather. The other will get plumbed to the bottom of the catch can with a one way valve (no spring) to act as a drain for any oil to drain if and when it does reach the catch can...

Am I on the right track here? Works in my head

SimonR32, on 16 Sept 2013 - 13:31, said:

Ok so the above was a fail, still getting plenty of oil in the catch can (about 100ml per lap) so back to the drawing board.

Luckily (unluckily but I'm being optimistic) I went to the track the other night in the wet and the excess front wheelspin has lunched the front diff so the motor is coming out. I have a Greddy extended sump so I'm now planning on getting 2 x dash 10 fittings welded to the passenger (intake) side at the front above the oil line. Going to remove that other line to the rear turbo oil drain and just blank it off again at the same time at it didn't seem to help.

I plan on one of the dash 10 lines going to the top of the catch can next to the cover breathers as a sump breather. The other will get plumbed to the bottom of the catch can with a one way valve (no spring) to act as a drain for any oil to drain if and when it does reach the catch can...

Am I on the right track here? Works in my head

Yes. If you read the last few pages of the big thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?hl=sk%20oil%20control

you will see that worked for me. You can also run the cam cover breathers to the same catch can and then instead of venting the catch can to atmosphere run a line to the turbo intake - preferably via an air/oil separator (or in my case just a second catch can). Do you have an oil restrictor in place?

Yes. If you read the last few pages of the big thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?hl=sk%20oil%20control

you will see that worked for me. You can also run the cam cover breathers to the same catch can and then instead of venting the catch can to atmosphere run a line to the turbo intake - preferably via an air/oil separator (or in my case just a second catch can). Do you have an oil restrictor in place?

Just read your plan, almost exactly the same plan but you didn't mention if you put a one way valve in the catch can drain?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
×
×
  • Create New...