Jump to content
SAU Community

Cel On After Radiator Replaced

ArdentEagle

By ArdentEagle,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

ArdentEagle Contributor

ArdentEagle

Posted
Posted

I had the radiator replaced in my my M35 yesterday. I now have the check engine light on.

Any ideas as to what it could be?

I've tried to manually get the fault code but no matter how many times I try it won't work for me. ( Doors closed too)

I've also disconnected and reconnected the AFM plug and unplugged my battery for an hour to reset the ECU.

If anyone can help it'd be much appreciated.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390146-cel-on-after-radiator-replaced/
Share on other sites
ArdentEagle Contributor

ArdentEagle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

might wanna check that they plugged everything back in. stuff close to the radiator, such as the electric fans

Thanks mate. Just had a quick look and everything looks o.k....I think, but I'm not very tech savvy so I may be overlooking something.

I spoke to the mechanic on the phone and he said all he unplugged was AFM connection. If I don't have any luck I'll take it back into the mechanic on Friday but I'd love to solve this mystery before then to save the hassle if possible.

Ross Collaborator

Ross

Posted
Posted

If he started the car before he reconnected it will throw the CEL. Check the codes for conformation.

Reset ecu if that's all it was. The CEL should disappear by itself after a while if it does not detect another sensor malfunction.

ArdentEagle Contributor

ArdentEagle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If he started the car before he reconnected it will throw the CEL. Check the codes for conformation.

Reset ecu if that's all it was. The CEL should disappear by itself after a while if it does not detect another sensor malfunction.

Cheers mate. cheers.gif

I tried to reset the ecu already by disconnecting the battery, I can't get the manual codes to work for me, I've tried numerous times... It is good to know that the CEL will disappear after a while provided there are actually no current faults.

I'll check with him to see if he started before it was re-connected.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey Champ.

Don't worry. Disconnecting will do sweet FA to clear codes. But you did reset your radio pre-sets if that's any consolation....whistling.gif

As said before, if he turned it on with the AFM unplugged, it'd throw a CEL. That will disapear, but if you want to reset:

ALSO- while I have your attention. They are notoriously hard to bleed the coolant system. There is a bleed, drivers side, near the back of the motor in a heater hose (Phillips head plug). Do you have a hot heater?- best to ask your mech if he opened the bleed and got the coolant flowing. thumbsup.gif

http://www.6mt.net/forum/performance-mods/2833-easy-ecu-reset-procedures.html

Edited by PN-Mad
ArdentEagle Contributor

ArdentEagle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey Champ.

Don't worry. Disconnecting will do sweet FA to clear codes. But you did reset your radio pre-sets if that's any consolation....whistling.gif

As said before, if he turned it on with the AFM unplugged, it'd throw a CEL. That will disapear, but if you want to reset:

ALSO- while I have your attention. They are notoriously hard to bleed the coolant system. There is a bleed, drivers side, near the back of the motor in a heater hose (Phillips head plug). Do you have a hot heater?- best to ask your mech if he opened the bleed and got the coolant flowing. thumbsup.gif

http://www.6mt.net/f...procedures.html

Thanks heaps for this info mate.

The air-con isn't performing as well as it did before the radiator was replaced so I'd dare say the bleed wasn't opened up. Mind you it was also 40c

The stereo presets are gone but the important part was saved. All the crossover values, time alignment and eq settings for my audio system are all still there. I'm running everything active, it took me months to get the tune right!

I'll attempt the reset tomorrow but I seem to have trouble with the timing of the whole procedure.

HER_M35 Enthusiast

HER_M35

Posted
Posted

Hi Ryan,

If you turn the heater all the way up to the hottest when the car is up to operating temp and the heater doesn't blow hot there'll be an airlock.

The G35 FSM has the correct procedure for getting the airlocks out which works with a bit of time and patience. I've done this a few times now with success.

Here's the extract from the manual;

Warm up until opening thermostat. Standard for warming-uptime is approximately 10 minutes at 3,000rpm.

Make sure thermostat opening condition by touching radiatorhose (lower) to see a flow of warm water.

CAUTION:

Watch water temperature gauge so as not to overheat engine.

7. Stop engine and cool down to less than approximately 50°C(122°F). If necessary, refill radiator up to filler neck with engine coolant.

8. Refill reservoir tank to "MAX" level line with enginecoolant.

9. Repeat steps 4 through 7 two or more times with radiatorcap installed until engine coolant level no longer drops.

10. Check cooling system for leaks with engine running.

11. Warm up engine, and check for sound of engine coolantflow while running engine from idle up to 3,000rpm with heater temperaturecontroller set at several position between "COOL" and "WARM".

Sound may be noticeable at heater unit.

12. Repeat step 10 three times.

13. If sound is heard, bleed air from cooling system byrepeating step 4 through 7 until engine coolant level no longer drops.

Clean excess engine coolant from engine.

If you don't have the Factory Service Manual and want a copy, PM me and i can send it to you.

Jas

ArdentEagle Contributor

ArdentEagle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Ryan,

If you turn the heater all the way up to the hottest when the car is up to operating temp and the heater doesn't blow hot there'll be an airlock.

The G35 FSM has the correct procedure for getting the airlocks out which works with a bit of time and patience. I've done this a few times now with success.

Here's the extract from the manual;

Warm up until opening thermostat. Standard for warming-uptime is approximately 10 minutes at 3,000rpm.

Make sure thermostat opening condition by touching radiatorhose (lower) to see a flow of warm water.

CAUTION:

Watch water temperature gauge so as not to overheat engine.

7. Stop engine and cool down to less than approximately 50°C(122°F). If necessary, refill radiator up to filler neck with engine coolant.

8. Refill reservoir tank to "MAX" level line with enginecoolant.

9. Repeat steps 4 through 7 two or more times with radiatorcap installed until engine coolant level no longer drops.

10. Check cooling system for leaks with engine running.

11. Warm up engine, and check for sound of engine coolantflow while running engine from idle up to 3,000rpm with heater temperaturecontroller set at several position between "COOL" and "WARM".

Sound may be noticeable at heater unit.

12. Repeat step 10 three times.

13. If sound is heard, bleed air from cooling system byrepeating step 4 through 7 until engine coolant level no longer drops.

Clean excess engine coolant from engine.

If you don't have the Factory Service Manual and want a copy, PM me and i can send it to you.

Jas

I'll check this out.

Cheersthumbsup.gif

ArdentEagle Contributor

ArdentEagle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

~100kms usually

Cheers.

Well I'm up to 170kms at the moment so it looks like that may not be the problem.

I've had the car checked and everything is plugged in BUT the electric fan at the front of the car is not working even though the air-con isblink.gif

I presume this would set the CEL off too? It could be just weird timing and perhaps a blown fuse somewhere?

ArdentEagle Contributor

ArdentEagle

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

After 265kms the CEL has gone off.

I guess the AFM wasn't plugged in before the car was started.

Thank you for all the help and advise guysthanks.gif

Now all I have to do is figure out why the thermo fan is now not working.

Edited by ArdentEagle

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PotatoCake
      Is r33 gtr steering wheel the same as the gtst?

      By PotatoCake · Posted

      You have just offended every teenage boy in America
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Structured text and other high level PLC programing languages are not allowable in Functional Safety. They are very difficult to audit. My PLC stuff is almost exclusively oriented towards Burner Management Systems which are a particularly pernicious form of Safety Instrumented System, when implemented in an SPLC. Even the part of the code written to work in the non-safety logic part of the PLC, like with a Siemens S7-1500 series, still needs to be treated as if it was safety code, with access restrictions, code fingreprints and the like. And Allen Bradley can go EABODs. They ae full of shit. They have this whole lie going on where they say if you use a ControlLogix controller and its IO, and then just duplicate the IOs (ie, run in series or parallel depending on type, to try to make it "fail safe") and "use these programming styles and place these restrictions on what you do" that you can achieve SIL2. What a load of crap. They just get away with it because no-one in the US seems to understand the first thing about Functional Safety and carries on as if all they have to do is buy only SIL2 rated equipment and hey presto, it's a SIL2 system. Idiots. /rant
    • MBS206
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If you're really considering leaving it, a great question to ask is, is the magnet going to stick to the sump? The answer to the above is the same answer towards if I'd have any level of comfort leaving it... Personally, based on the cost of a motor if the magnet were to cause damage, I'd be fishing it out either way. Use the methods in here. It fit in through the plug hole, it'll come out.   PS, get a small actuatable claw for a bore scope. OR if you know a vet, they have really cool controllable scopes with hooks on the end. Supposedly they're like playing a video game. Ask if they can acquire you one of their scopes... Engine oil after all is just a different type of lube right? Will only make it easier on the next dog or cat...
    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All other (Boolean) logic functions though, are just built on those blocks above. Which does give you a lot of functionality in logic. It is basing that on using thresholds with analogue signals like GTS alluded to.   Not having things like timers will make it less useful for some of the ramp up logic you'd want, and again, on Haltecs capacity specifically, I'm not across anymore what you can / can't do with different tables.   I'm assuming, with your logic you want to implement, not only do you want your timing safeties, you're wanting to be able to derive the duty cycle for your solenoid, to maintain I'm assuming 175PSi? Or are you using a standalone WMI controller to maintain the DC correct, and you just want the Haltech working out which fuelling maps you should be on?
    • MBS206
      Low oil pressure after WOT

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It doesn't seem to follow revs. Oddly it seems to follow TPS a little bit from what I can see, but with some delay a bit. IE end of the graph, when he lets off throttle fully, pressure drops a lot, then slowly builds back up, but rpm is on a nice cruisey drop off. I do agree though, it seems very electrically.
×
×
  • Create New...