Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wondering if anyone could shed some light on my problem,

remove my calipers for painting as they were looking a little bit faded. sealed them all up perfectly before cleaning / painting.

hooked everything back up but now i cant seem to draw fluid down from the master cylinder down the lines to the calipers....?

tried everything i can think of but nothings working....

can only narrow it down to either that

a) master has some how died over a week of not being used

b) lines are blocked (all four? even though they were fine before hand)

c) im doing something wrong....

is there a special bleeding method like bleeding at the ABS control first or what???

i tried regular bleeding and it would work however the pistons inside the calipers arent moving and its not drawing any fluid.

any help or tips would be muchly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390155-r34-brake-problem/
Share on other sites

jeez i wouldve painted them calipers on the car. . . . sounds like you have an airlock in the lines, does the ABS have bleeder screws on them? if so maybe bleed that first and then the brakes in sequence

Are you opening the bleed nipple while someone pushes the pedal to the floor, closing the bleed nipple and then telling the person pressing the brake pedal to release it?

This ensures when the pedal is lifted that fluid gets drawn out of the resivour rather than air drawn back in from the bleed nipple, make sure the bleed nipple is closed before the brake pedal is lifted.

It can sometimes take a few goes to eventually get the air all out.

One other thing, some bleed nipples can need to be opened a little more than normal, just try to avoid getting any brake fluid over your newly painted calipers.....

When we took our calipers off for painting and the fitting of new seals and braided lines a few weeks ago, it took a bit of time to get the fluid coming out of the calipers bleed nipples.

Edited by GTRPSI

okay so ive put it down to the master cylinder....

is there a difference between a r33 / r34 master cylinder or can you run either?

If you get a 33 gts-t master from an ABS car they are the same(only has 2 holes not 4) and will be labelled BM44.. if you cant be arsed I have a whole master and booster setup sitting around that I will sell for cheap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 
    • Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter.  I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold.    I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.        
    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
    • Brumbys with good shells are bloody expensive, I've looked at 2 "cheaper" cars, and walked away from both,  plus after some research spare parts are fairly sparce I'm starting to think that I missed the boat on finding a clean one that is straight (ish) and without alot rust I'm starting to think about a old Hilux as panels and other parts are much more available as they sold tens of thousands of them I use to be indecisive but now I'm not sure
×
×
  • Create New...