Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all.

Was reading a import mag earlier with a silver cefiro owned by a fella in victoria called chris, seen he relocated his under bonnet fuse box.

And I wanna do the same, just wondering where would be the best place, I was thinking maybe glove box. Boots too far but would be the go.

And noo im not putting a cover over it. :P

Cheers

Choc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390272-relocating-fusebox-in-cefiro/
Share on other sites

if youre going to do it, do it properly, pull the dash out, pull the whole loom out ect

i did it with dash in and didnt remove the loom, was nothing but drama's, shit not working, stuff shorting out, blowing fuses, massive mess under the dash

i ended up starting again with a new loom and left it in the stock spot and just stripped it to bare minimum

this is what i ripped out

18b17fde.jpg

started again with a fresh loom

546eb4e6.jpg

stripped off everything i didnt need and put it all back in

75564b4b.jpg

ff97c98f.jpg

Edited by Kris..

I've just done mine chocky. basically pull the full loom from out of the front of the car. Strip the tape off the loom and work out where its going to sit under the dash, mine is right next to the other fuse panel cable tied up out of the way. Then cut and shorten and solder/heatshrink each cable one by one. while the loom was stripped I also removed the Abs wiring to cut out some cables, then I also drilled a hole just above the chassis rail near the alternator to bring that wiring out under the guard then back over the wheel arch and moved the battery to the boot but run the power wire in behind the strut down under the break booster to the starter motor. Having it ran here also allowed me to put a decent fuse in and also a place to put the jumper leads if i need to jump start the car again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...