Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no adapters for that price, i got there fuel rail, its a chrome one $130 , needs a hole sealed up like ART's rail did.

Havnt got a reg yet, thinking about a Sard reg or if i can reuse the factory one that would save some $$$$

if theres some fittings i can use to adapt it then ill do that, stock pressure is enough for the 1000cc injectors , and yes will get a guage,

would rather put the money toward a pump rather than a fancy reg i dont really need. :yes:

if theres some fittings i can use to adapt it then ill do that, stock pressure is enough for the 1000cc injectors , and yes will get a guage,

would rather put the money toward a pump rather than a fancy reg i dont really need. :yes:

Yes stock regs work perfectly except when running an aftermarket rail which doesnt allow the stock reg to fit

  • 1 month later...

ID1000's come matched for flow.... why is this important? check the pic below.

the pic attached is of generic ID1000 (bosch 1000cc) wanna bees. Look at the hug difference in flow.... there is enough difference in these to lose a motor... apparently it is now a big issue with all the 1000 and 2000cc stuff.

If your serious buy the matched ID's or at least get your 1000cc injectors flow checked.

I should add the injectors we tested above are NOT from our recommended supplier TUFFCARPARTS, we source our injectors from tuffcarparts.com.au (like the id1000s in my own car) and we are yet to have any problems.

The dodgy injectors are from another injector supplier.

  • 3 months later...

Sorry bout the old thread revival, I bought some xspurt 1000's , do I need to use the black rubber cushions off the bottom of the standard rb26 injectors or are the orings supplied with the xspurts ok?

Sorry bout the old thread revival, I bought some xspurt 1000's , do I need to use the black rubber cushions off the bottom of the standard rb26 injectors or are the orings supplied with the xspurts ok?

Never mind, I answered my own question,

I should add the injectors we tested above are NOT from our recommended supplier TUFFCARPARTS

, we source our injectors from tuffcarparts.com.au (like the id1000s in my own car) and we are yet to have any problems.

The dodgy injectors are from another injector supplier.

You talked about these ASNU1000cc injectors i like their 7 spray 30degree nozzle but im wondering if anyone has worked on these and if they are any different from the ID1000s. Also are these plugs and plug and play because i noticed they give different o ring size from 11mm to 15mm.

Im going to be fitting these on a R34GTT and will be looking at upgrading to dual fuel. Could anyone gimme some input on these and what tuners think about these.

http://www.asnuperformance.com.au/gallery/High%2BPerformance%2BInjectors/ansu-performance-1000cc-injector/110282

  • 3 years later...

rather than starting a new thread, I'm looking at getting id1300 for e85 application, it will be fitted to hks fuel rail, I read the plug on injectors are different (uscar?) and requires an adapter

I'm looking for the adapter that had a stock neat look rather wires splayed (as per attached)

suggestions...

post-40640-0-55411100-1461797789_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Strange your posting about this being an issue. Move the harness or change your wheels or run more camber etc. Have the thing not touch the thing so it doesn't destroy the thing.  Short answer, no. Slightly longer answer, the factory fuel gauge is measuring resistance. You need to wire in the FPG fuel level sender into the original factory fuel level sender wiring.  I drew you a picture to explain this one The factory strainer is quite long, reaching down into the bottom of the tank. Safe bet your aftermarket fuel pump has a little baby sized strainer that probably doesn't even point down towards the bottom of the thank.  Solution, move the pump lower down in the tank, or fit a longer strainer, or do both. I did both, I've run my tank down to 5L remaining and the car still drove fine.   
    • S2/3 GT-R is the same as S2 GTS-t The SRS airbags module in under the centre console. The S1/S1.5 GTS-t and S1 GT-R had the module built into the steering wheel. FWIW, I have a S3 GT-R wheel in my S2 GTS-t shit box. Same airbag plug, airbag light goes on then off, meaning all systems are go. S3 GT-R has red stitching, that's about it.
    • Dumb question, but why would it matter if the wheel came off a car with hicas or not?
    • Hey to anyone that reads this, long time lurker first time posting, sorry if it’s been answered before but I’ve been looking for nearly a year now for answers. ive got a 25det neo in an r32 that works awesome when it works (made 500whp on 21psi) but works 45% of the time, 1st issue there’s a harness that runs under the passengers side front fender that my tire keeps rubbing through and one wire seems to power the fuel pump even though I’ve done the relay “mod” some people like to call it, and when it does rub through it kills the car, yes next time I’m with the car I want to take the fender off and try tuck the harness well out of the way but I’d also like to try and by pass this mysterious wire as well lol, also wouldn’t mind getting power from the alternator as I’ve read it supplies the pump with 13v ? But no idea where to run the power wire too. 2nd issue, when replacing my fuel pump and fuel hanger I managed to break the factory fuel level sender leaving me with no fuel gauge, I’d like to buy the fpg fuel level sender for r32/s13 but the plug it comes with confuses me, I’ve got a detschwerks x1 fuel hanger which has light + pump - level + pump + and a ground, I’m no auto sparky but I’m wondering if I can cut the plug off the fuel level sender and wire the negative to the pump negative and wire the positive to the level positive to get a fuel gauge back ?🥴 3rd and final issue, the reason I want a fuel gauge is because whenever it’s below half a tank, it fuel starves like crazy and runs like a bag of shit even without doing a pull or sloshing the fuel round in the tank, I’d also like to fix this but have no idea what’s causing it, I’ve got a dw420 and a dead head fuel setup meaning the fuel is regulated before it gets to the engine, my only theory is that the return line is to close to the pickup on the pump and when it’s at half a tank the return line is causing the pump to cavitate enough to cause fuel pressure issues, that or the pump isn’t low enough in the tank which I would find strange considering I can’t find a single thing online about it, also if ya wondering how I figured out it happens at half a tank without a fuel gauge, I waited until it started happening and went and filled up and the car took exactly 30 litres every time I tested it, if ya managed to read through this mess I appreciate that and any recommendations , cheers
    • ChatGPT is trash and lies about things I would not expect it to lie about considering many things it's wrong about are very easily verified with google. The S3 R33 GTR shares its steering wheel with R33 GTSTs of the same production year. Part number is 48430-26U17. I'm guessing you have to get it from a car that came with HICAS though, the ER33 is 48430-26U18, but the HR33 diagrams note that part number is still leather vs 48430-26U13 which is not leather-wrapped. They all use the same airbags, so if you need another one you can get it off basically any same year R33 or Stagea.
×
×
  • Create New...