Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R&R is just a section of the load map, if you are running extra boost, big exhaust, FMIC etc you will always hit it with the stock ecu if it hasn't been tuned.

Basically anything that improves performance/airflow over stock.

R&R is just a section of the load map, if you are running extra boost, big exhaust, FMIC etc you will always hit it with the stock ecu if it hasn't been tuned.

Basically anything that improves performance/airflow over stock.

car came with FMIC + 3in turbo bk + cat, and I only added a 10psi R32 actuator.... and apparently R33 ecu cannot be tuned? could that be the cause of all my probs, the shitty stock ECU spitting dummies???

thanks again

imo it is almost certainly your problem, just rich, bad spark = misfire because it is running rich as hell.

though it probably has a whole host of other issues like air leaks, old dying sensors etc like every other shit bucket skyline on the road, they are old cars and stuff is starting to break en masse on them if they haven't been meticulously mantained.

Sounds like you better take it to a performance shop as it doesn't sound like you can do any work yourself bar change a tyre... so if you can't do it yourself then they are going to have to do it anyway. Might as well get them to figure it out.

A failing fuel pump will cause a lean condition though???

Shit balls f**k lol, I meant you can tell the difference between a failing fuel pump/lean pop and misfire. If he doesn't have lean popping issues, he MIGHT not have a failing fuel pump. If it was well and truly failing though, he most certainly would. He would have starting issues too. Even holding revs on idle will cause it to lean pop.

imo it is almost certainly your problem, just rich, bad spark = misfire because it is running rich as hell.

though it probably has a whole host of other issues like air leaks, old dying sensors etc like every other shit bucket skyline on the road, they are old cars and stuff is starting to break en masse on them if they haven't been meticulously mantained.

- I hear ya :P but all cars are old, just imports take more of a beating running turbos from factory!

okay tell me this, what would be done to rectify a R&R or rich situation (providing it is R&R bad spark) is there a definitive answer if the dyno guy sees it running super rich???

if you dont mind giving me a lesson on cars :P cheers (from memory the O2 sensor was changed - that didnt make much difference, the rest I have no clue, only had the car 5-6months)

You retune it, either convert to an R32 ecu and go a nistune (looks stock and won't get picked up if you get defected) or you go an aftermarket ecu and retune.

About a $1000-1500 adventure to do properly if you are paying for 100% of the work to be done.

Edited by Rolls

OKAY - so theres no other way to fix? otherwise I cant drive the car until I can get the money for the nistune setup (since the r33 ecu cant be tuned?) I always wanted a nistune as its better long term :D just thought there would be a way to fix this issue for now?

You retune it, either convert to an R32 ecu and go a nistune (looks stock and won't get picked up if you get defected) or you go an aftermarket ecu and retune.

About a $1000-1500 adventure to do properly if you are paying for 100% of the work to be done.

You retune it, either convert to an R32 ecu and go a nistune (looks stock and won't get picked up if you get defected) or you go an aftermarket ecu and retune.

About a $1000-1500 adventure to do properly if you are paying for 100% of the work to be done.

OR - can i go the SAFC 2 direction for now? will that cure it? or do i still need someone to tune the SAFC?? because they are cheaper again?? just for a while so i can actually drive

OR - can i go the SAFC 2 direction for now? will that cure it? or do i still need someone to tune the SAFC?? because they are cheaper again?? just for a while so i can actually drive

dont waste your money on a bandaid solution.

For the time being turn the boost down by putting the old R33 actuator back in instead of the r32 actuator, that will drop your boost from the 12 odd psi you are getting at the moment to ~6-8psi which will stop it spluttering at peak torque.

It won't magically fix your other problems though, this is assuming the problem is the ECU is making it run rich as f**k and getting the typical rich misfire. It could be something entirely different.

Just take it to a shop and throw money at it, as it doesn't sound like you are able to do any work yourself anyway.

Edited by Rolls

okay will do they dyno monday and see, but Id say you are probably right :P hopefully the dyno will show other issues too,

then I will drive it nicely on standard boost which i think is 5psi at low rpm to 7psi at high... until I can buy NISTUNE? would you say NISTUNE? or PFC? I like nistune, I am only aiming for 200rwkw for a while, then maybe one day 250, but its just a streeter not track - not my thing :)

thanks again for ur advice/help!!

dont waste your money on a bandaid solution.

For the time being turn the boost down by putting the old R33 actuator back in instead of the r32 actuator, that will drop your boost from the 12 odd psi you are getting at the moment to ~6-8psi which will stop it spluttering at peak torque.

It won't magically fix your other problems though, this is assuming the problem is the ECU is making it run rich as f**k and getting the typical rich misfire. It could be something entirely different.

Just take it to a shop and throw money at it, as it doesn't sound like you are able to do any work yourself anyway.

okay will do they dyno monday and see, but Id say you are probably right :P hopefully the dyno will show other issues too,

then I will drive it nicely on standard boost which i think is 5psi at low rpm to 7psi at high... until I can buy NISTUNE? would you say NISTUNE? or PFC? I like nistune, I am only aiming for 200rwkw for a while, then maybe one day 250, but its just a streeter not track - not my thing :)

thanks again for ur advice/help!!

well thanks again (IVE OPTED TO SEE FOURS N MORE, SPOKE ON THE PHONE AND HE SOUNDED LIKE HE KNEW A FAIR BIT, so fingers crossed! talk MONDAY :P)

Note OP has an auto. Does the R33 have the auto ecu in the main ecu like the S1 stagea? In which case the R32 or Z32 ecu +Nistune will not work? Looks like a job for an E-manage!

Yeah I think they do, there isn't a separate ECU. Even a power FC wouldn't work in there.

Sorry? Can I use Z32 + nistune board?

it seems silly that a company so big cant make a board to run r33 or auto r33.... can anyone give specifics or I will just contact them myself :P

Nistune is not a big company its a small group of hard working people. By all means contact them yourself - have a read of their website

http://www.nistune.com/faq.php

You need to start looking for a Greddy E-Manage (or an HKS F-Con although tuners for them are few and far between).

There are only 2 people who work at nistune lol, and both of them have full time jobs it is just something they do on the side for a hobby.

Just got an email from Matt at nistune, and he says the Z32 ecu will run my car and the auto in my car, he will supply z32, fitted with Nistune and base maps :D excellent! THEN i look for a tuner. BUT my question is nistune with base maps for rb25det, can i drive it on the new ecu nistune setup till i get tune? or just get the tune done asap as people say its around $400 for a tune, and is it possible Nistune with a tune could fix all my problems, or is it still AFM related? cheers. I will be getting nistune done asap!!!

Just got an email from Matt at nistune, and he says the Z32 ecu will run my car and the auto in my car, he will supply z32, fitted with Nistune and base maps :D excellent! THEN i look for a tuner. BUT my question is nistune with base maps for rb25det, can i drive it on the new ecu nistune setup till i get tune? or just get the tune done asap as people say its around $400 for a tune, and is it possible Nistune with a tune could fix all my problems, or is it still AFM related? cheers. I will be getting nistune done asap!!!

thanks guys will do dyno monday let ya know

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha! well, there's your problem!  Guess the last person in there didn't have great attention to detail....
    • It seems like you guys want to behave like rabid dogs, rather than gentlemen... Knowing one has jumped in on a fellow comrades near done deal, and sniped it at the last second, how can one sleep at night?
    • My wifes says we have a spare set.
    • Good news!!! Changed the O ring today and I’ve got the “pssshhhh” back when I open the fuel cap 😂🙌🏼🙌🏼 It was 100% the O ring because that bloody thing was inside the fuel tank 😂😂😂😂😂 Fitting new fuel pump was a pain as always since the DW is a bit longer than stock. But she’s running!!! ❤️
    • PWM quite literally just chops the ful 12V voltage on and off at whatever duty cycle you're running it at. If you're running it 100%, then it is on full voltage all the time, same as if there was no PWM. If you run it at 50% duty cycle, it is only seeing the full 12V half of the time. This is broadly equivalent to running it at 6V. But the crucial difference is that motors (and a lot of other loads) don't like being powered at low volts. They will either fail to start rotating, or draw a shit ton of current, or other undesirable things. But if you give them the full volt, and then a short period of no volts, and then some more full volts, then the times when they are seeing power they are seeing all the voltage, and they are happy. But you get the performance out of them as if they were only seeing that fraction of the full voltage. It is not really easy to answer your question about what flow you will get out of it at 50% duty cycle. I can tell you that it is not as simple as you think. For a start, that 460 L/h pump is not going to flow 460 when you're on boost. When you're on boost you will be somewhere down the sloping part of that red line. If you have 15 psi of boost, then the pump can only deliver about 95 gal/h, which is <380L/h. So your simple 50% on 460 = 230 wasn't going to work anyway. But also, it won't deliver 50% of 380 either, because when you devolt or PWM trim th epower being fed to the pump, it is not able to deliver flow or pressure in the same way. 50% duty cycle will probably produce <50% of the full voltage flow. The way to find out what duty cycle you need to run it at at low load (ie, at idle) is to idle it and turn the DC down until you start to lose fuel pressure, then turn it back up above that with some extra for safety. And then you do the same thing at full load, in case it doesn't need anywhere near 100% DC. And if you're careful/caution/prudent, you will also do it at a couple of loads in between so you can shape the DC map against load. It might not be linear between the two end points.
×
×
  • Create New...