Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I've got my Rb25 on the engine stand I figure I'd remove the water oil cooler so I can just mount my oil cooler re locator straight to the block, I know that I need to remove the current stud in the RB25 and replace it with a Oil Filter Stud from a L28 Motor found in the 280z , Just wondering if anyone knows where I could get one of these Stud/Threads , Only place I've found to order them from is in the states and I'm looking at $35 with postage for a simple stuf worth a few bucks.

So does anyone know a part number for this and if so can I get it from Nissan

Or

Does anyone know a place that sells parts from old Z series engines where I could grab this.

I'm sure there are plenty people out there that have removed this pretty useless part from the engine, if I can't find one here, i'll drop the 35 to grab one from the states, its not so much the cost as the time waiting on postage I can't be bothered with.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390469-removing-water-oil-cooler-rb25/
Share on other sites

Thats correct.

Im doing the same thing. Just order one from Nissan. I have. $9 fom memory.

Jf you delete the cooler, you must use a Z418 oil filter, or depending how your filter sits, a Z632 which doesnt have an anti drain back valve.

Im gonna use the Z632.

You need to use one of these filters as when you delete the oil cooler, you delete the bypass valves as well. Z145A doesnt have the bypass valve. Z418 & Z632 do.

is there a reason why you're removing it?

the water/oil heat exchanger is great for warming up the oil and keeping at a decent temperature rather than under cooling it :blush:

Id be guessing hes probably going to be running an external oil cooler which really doesnt have the issue or being to cold if its a track car and thermostat if for street.

Does the rb20 filter mount have the relief valves??

No, does not. Hence why you must use a Z418 or Z632 filter.

and are they 85psi ones?

Incorrect, the ball bearing relief valves are set to a low pressure, something around 5 - 10PSI.

Wondering if u guys could help me out .. I'm putting a oil cooler in my car with a grex sandwich plate and a new radiator .. I want to get rid of the oil to water cooler on my gt-t can I buy somthing to suit my block

Got a New Oil Filter Stud from Nissan today, one from a RB30, when in prefect.

For those wanting to know, car is track only, running a oil cooler which will do much better then the oil to water cooler this way I've removed plenty of the water lines and got more room.

As for you GT-T1998, you can basically do the same thing, the block on the RB25Neo is pretty much the same, the thread will be exact same, so just go to nissan and ask for a Oil Filter Stud from a RB30, I can post part number up later, cost me $19, Will be worth it.

I've removed plenty of the water lines and got more room.

My car is a street car and I have a leaking water hose under there some where and I want to get rid of some hoses so Im bypassing it with out an external cooler, I can't see there being that much of a problem but just in case i will be fitting a sandwich plate with an oil temp and pressure gauges, just wondering if the sandwich plate will fit with the cooler left in place, if so Im assuming I just use the standard filter, if not I just use one of the filters mentioned above?

Got a New Oil Filter Stud from Nissan today, one from a RB30, when in prefect.

For those wanting to know, car is track only, running a oil cooler which will do much better then the oil to water cooler this way I've removed plenty of the water lines and got more room.

As for you GT-T1998, you can basically do the same thing, the block on the RB25Neo is pretty much the same, the thread will be exact same, so just go to nissan and ask for a Oil Filter Stud from a RB30, I can post part number up later, cost me $19, Will be worth it.

ohk .. so i can mount the oil filter stud from a rb30 straight onto the block? kinda like the rb20 mount?

do you have a image of it ?

is it as easy as putting an rb20det oil filter housing on ... ive had 2 of them so far both been cracked then went to another wrecker today and he had 1 with a crack in it to seems like no1 has them and its 15days for nissan to order 1 in from japan for 140bucks which i think is an ok price but my cars been off the road for 11days i want to try and have it fixed :( miss driving it .

i seen on a post today someone put the big gold plug from the stock cooler onto a sandwich plate.. is that necessary what is it?

  • 2 weeks later...
I can post part number up later, cost me $19, Will be worth it.

Any chance of getting that part number, went in to get one today and they told me that its a whole unit not just the stud.

Another part i will be changing because of the removal of the heat exchanger is the fitting at the back of the block, on the 25 it has a straight pipe that comes out, a hose then joins that to another bit of pipe that has pipes for the throttle body hose and heat exchanger hose and a bracket to mount it to the back of the manifold, if you use the one off the rb30 it is just the main pipe with a pipe running off that for the hose to the throttle body, much easier then the 25 set up, the part number is NI-14075-42L01 price was $59.10, not cheap but well worth it instead of dodgy fixes i think.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...