Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ive got to admit, a good mate of mine has twin arc bov on a 26/30 build and on gate, slamming through gears sounds baws.

given that im not a fan of a loud atmo bov can cause stall and idle issues, most sensible people will opt for a factory GTR unit.

I thought all turbo engines need a BOV when you're running 20 odd psi.

Otherwise : Surge = Turbo damage ?

Ceramic wheeled turbos - Yes

A lot of Steel wheel turbo cars never ran a BOV from factory (VL Turbos are a pretty good example of this)

Currently running a blanking plate (for defect clearance purpose)

It is the gayest sounding shit I've ever heard. Disregarding the potential damage it can cause to the turbo (I'm not boosting it at all while it's there, bar a couple of times to hear it), it sounds absolutely terrible.

I don't see the appeal for dose. f**king top bloke dream boats in VL turbos

Sorta off topic, I know.

Turbosmart make a duel port bov that bolts up to the factory bov flange and has a plunb back adapter that comes with it i have 1 on my car (and its plumbed back FYI) works good :thumbsup:

Right now I have an Apexi slide adjustable BOV to atmo with an RB25/30 with a GT3076R.

It sounded better before with the old high flow on medium orifice.

There was a relatively loud clean flutter that would growl deep and spook dogs.

Now with the 3076 it is set on large orifice and doesn't flutter as nice and is also really F%$#@%^loud on high boost.

When it releases the pssshhht, it's like someone is smashing a bottle right next to your head.

Now with the cops increasingly picking on us I wanna plumb back.

I don't think I can plumb back this BOV.

I've heard a few S15's getting around with a really cool high pitch flutter.

Not too loud, like a whistle lowering in pitch as it flutters.

Can anyone tell me which BOV's do this and can be plumbed.

I only track it once a year so ragged edge performance isn't a total requirement.

cheers.

It is an emission issue, air escaping thats been metered = more fuel which means rich which means carbon. Well in NSW anyway its an actual fine not just defect. Not sure about vic

That can be tuned around. It's more to do with the fact that for a completely legal ventilation system, your engine breathers should be venting into your intake - this = oil fume escaping from your BOV when it opens. If you say well, just run breathers on your catch can.....this is equally illegal

Anyone that puts a BOV on for sound is just a plain f**king dickhead.

This man....he knows :thumbsup:

Bovs are totally gay. And so are people that fit them.

If you want a bov, use the stock recirculation valve that is still plumbed back.

You may be right, 100% of the rally championship entry line should be called immediately. Quick while you still can....tell them all they are gay!

And recirculation valve is just another name for a BOV and vice versa - yes they do different things/operate slightly differently but the principal is exactly the same and they are there for a reason.

While you're calling the WRC, make sure you let Nissan, Toyota and the countless other manufacturers know of their homosexuality

Ceramic wheeled turbos - Yes

A lot of Steel wheel turbo cars never ran a BOV from factory (VL Turbos are a pretty good example of this)

They are better on ceramic turbine, yes. But they do protect the turbo from large amounts of reversion which stresses a turbo no matter what its made of. Heat damages ceramic turbos more than not having a BOV installed.

I think we can all agree on one thing though....

PSSSSSSHHHHTTTT!!!! TUTUTUTUTUTUTUTUTUTUTUTUTUTUTTTTUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU

Oh and I forgot, if you just want to muffle the sound, try heading down to clark rubber and picking up some filter foam. Cable tie some of that shit around the BOV outlet and the sound will be cut in half at least. You can also argue that the air is filtered but I spent half an hour arguing with a coppa on that one and he ended up fining me anyway so at your own risk

Yeah should have been mo specific lol. i still run a BOV because i feel a bit safer having it on there

Greddy type RS copy. cheap but does the job. custom recirc adapter, no problems so far

Thats a pretty cool setup.

Its been changed since then when I put my HKS turbo + intake on, but maintains a very simliar setup, just 2 x 90 degree hoses and one straight bit of pipe instead lol.

Might get flamed for this but I didnt want to use a stock BOV cause I absoloutly hate the way they sound. Ran one up till the day I started using the Front facing Plenum setup, and it is 100% true when people say there is nothing wrong with them. Would not hesitate to suggest using one to anyone, there just not for me

Care to post a video of what that sounds like with the Type RS copy recirculated?

I have a genuine Type RS on mine that i got cheap when they bought out the RZ. I got it because im the same, the stock one sounds shit lol. And because i dont recirculate mine, as running MAP ECU i dont need to.

People choose exhausts based on what they sound like too, not JUST the benefit. So whats the difference.

You may be right, 100% of the rally championship entry line should be called immediately. Quick while you still can....tell them all they are gay!

And recirculation valve is just another name for a BOV and vice versa - yes they do different things/operate slightly differently but the principal is exactly the same and they are there for a reason.

While you're calling the WRC, make sure you let Nissan, Toyota and the countless other manufacturers know of their homosexuality

Excuse me?????

I dont think you see where i'm coming from.

The point i was getting at, is people that fit atmospheric venting blow off valves to be "sick" and 'hektik', but have no idea on what effects it causes the metered air that has been read by the ECU and suddenly vented to air. Not to mention the added cop attention.

They quite often cause idle issues, plug fouling, hesitation when changing gears etc etc.

Factory recirculation valves are there for a reason, and i believe in them. I dont use one myself for my own reasons (no not to intentionally cause flutterzzz).

The comment i was making is pretty much the same as The_Mafia's.

So i dont think i have to call the WRC at all. Hope this clears things up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
    • yeaaa that's why I haven't done any wiring to the stock ecu harness because I have the haltech, but then that leads me to the other question of "is the pnp harness really plug and play?" or would I have to still switch some pins/wires over because the pnp is for the rb25det neo harness, and not for the rb20de neo harness. was really hoping to find something to spoon feed me since so many people have done rb20neo + t conversions, but man this is rough.
×
×
  • Create New...