Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Have spent the best part of 6 hours scouring not just this forum but the whole interwebz for information but just can't find any concrete answers. If there is a thread containing this information already, please abuse me and send me on my way action-smiley-069.gif

So basically I am interested in getting a Plazmaman plenum for my 34, but would like to have a few questions answered first. Preferably with first hand experience, as I've found plenty of people who's brothers mates cousin has a friend yada yada... The biggest issue for me is the fuel system. Will this plenum fit onto my car with the standard top feed fuel rail? I'm using Power Enterprise 660cc injectors at the moment, which are a fair bit bigger than the factory items as well... If it will NOT fit, what are my options? Is it simply because of the rail, is it the injectors, do I need to switch completely and get side feed injectors on an aftermarket rail, etc??

What else needs to be done to fit this? From what I can see, the washer bottle is gonna have to be relocated so that the fuse box can move over to make way for the throttle body.

Any help will be VERY much appreciated, as pretty as the Plazmaman plenum is, I'm getting rather sick of looking at them in R33's... :P

Thanks a lot,

Martin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390549-plazmaman-plenum-on-rb25det-neo/
Share on other sites

We've fit one before.

The stock fuel rail is fine, as you said washer bottle and fuse box are in the way.

Stock throttle body needs to go along with the traction control gear. From memory we used an R33 throttle body.

3403597643_17af0e71b2_o.jpg

Dahtone you're a life saver! Thanks mate.

Washer bottle relocation should be easy enough, but where do most people put theirs? I'll probably just get a smaller universal washer bottle and see where it can go. I've got no problem with ditching the traction control as I've done that already :P I will just spend the few hundred extra on the Plazmaman throttle body as well, might as well go all out if I'm spending this much money cleaning up the engine bay.

What about the fuel pressure reg, I notice in your above picture that the car has an aftermarket fuel pressure reg fitted. Will stock get in the way at all? In this picture (stolen from 34GeeTeeTee's build thread thumbsup.gif ) it looks like it is going to be in the way:

IMG_0420.jpg?1328406778546

As well as this build thread I found on Skylineowners.com:

P10006681.jpg?1328406969

P10006621.jpg?1328407040274

Both these guys solved it by changing their fuel system completely, but am I safe to assume that these things can simply be moved out of the way or?

Ah ok that's easy then. So you just swapped them around as simple as that, or you ditched the dampener? Thanks again mate, have made this a whole lot easier for me haha.

Another question, has anyone used the Plazmaman piping to the IC? Where is it routed, through the top of the battery tray requiring a new hole or can it go back through the side and underneath like my current FMIC piping goes?

*EDIT* Oh yeh, what about the throttle cable Dahtone? Did the stock on fit as Plazmaman claim or did you need to make one up? I'm also assuming the TPS wiring will need to be extended which shouldn't be a big deal?

Edited by Hanaldo

Does removing the dampener not cause problems? Am I best to get an aftermarket FPR with a built in dampener if I am ditching the stock one or will it not make a difference without it?

There's 12 posts in this thread, half of them talking about whether the stock fuel system will work. If you're not gonna read those 12 posts, can you at least wait until I post the how-to thread so you can just look at the pretty pictures to see how it works out?

  • Like 1

Right, so after a few back and forth emails with the Plazmaman sales team, I'm highly doubting they are going to be any help to me. I asked (before Dahtone replied here) whether the stock top feed fuel rail is going to be a problem, they said no not at all. So I said I've got Power Enterprise 660cc injectors which are about 70mm compared to the stock GTT's 60(ish)mm, so the fuel rail has been spaced about that much, will that be a problem. They responded by asking what brand injectors I am using blink.gif They also said they have attached an image of an R34 using the stock fuel rail, but the attached image was clearly an R33 using an aftermarket fuel rail glare.gif They now want to sell me a fuel rail they are making for the Neo. Of course.

So I think I'm just going to go ahead and purchase the plenum and throttle body, and see how far I can get with what I've got. If it turns out things need to be changed then I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. I can see this plenum install having my car sitting in the shed for weeks, so it's going to have to wait 2 weeks or so until I get my daily back. I'll try my best to document the whole process for anyone else here wanting the same answers as me.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...