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had to remove my washer bottle filler neck as my battery had to be fully pushed against the chassis.

so gonna have to connect a clear hose and run it from the washer bottle into the engine bay. dodgey but it'll work :miner:

I'll just ditch the stock washer bottle and buy a small universal one. Either relocate it to somewhere else in the engine bay if it fits, otherwise to the boot. Stock one is ugly anyway :P

I'll just ditch the stock washer bottle and buy a small universal one. Either relocate it to somewhere else in the engine bay if it fits, otherwise to the boot. Stock one is ugly anyway :P

washer bottles are overated lol just bin it and dont run one.

A lot of people put the battery in the boot (for cars that don't already have it there) and get a fabricator to make a combined washer bottle/catch can to fit in the available space (some with cut outs for the intercooler piping). I am too cheap for that and I have found that my washer bottle can share the space with the piping by making some new brackets. I may have to go with the flexible filer hose as above^^^ but am not prepared to lose either front or rear washers they are good for an extra 10kw at least!

IAC valves can easily be replaced by a competent tuner. My Plazmaman plenum allowed me to run the stock RB25 IAC (upside down / had to extend two wires) but I ended up pissing it off and replacing it with a piece of flat steel, some silicon and the bolts that normally hold the IAC in place.

Not really, pwr steer idle up, a/c idle up, auto anti stall etc are all required for the niceties of a daily driver.... many afm based ecu's strugle without one. Nistune for one is happy to make upwards of 500rwkw but does not like having the iac removed.

if your ecu allows it and your not fussed about having a higher idle than std etc than yes it can be tuned around (mostly map based ecus).

The only people who seem to get good results with these are guys who need to justify the fact they sold it to the customer.... yes we tuned heaps yes they work (like std) would i put one on my own car ... no.

i wanted to run mine without IAC but my tuner advised against it for the above reasons for a/c, power steering etc as it is recommended to run it.

if i could, i would remove it and tune without it as it makes my engine bay look so messy.

Plenty of space in the boot for a washer bottle! - (no I'm not joking, that's where mine is).

Worth popping your boot to fill it up when you have this happy.gif

plazamann1328659221.jpg

Off topic here but gota say those rims on black look crazzy!

Off topic here but gota say those rims on black look crazzy!

screw that.... that whole car is super sexy.

Thanks! Looks totally different since this pic - alot has changed. Sadly it was the only shot I had that showed my plenum so I had to use it.

The plazmaman makes you actually look forward to changing plugs, instead of putting it off because of the annoying cross pipe set up :D

You mean the loss in torque? That's got nothing to do with the motor, it's the length of the runners on the intake. As a general rule, shorter runners = less mid-range more high end, longer runners = more mid-range less up top.

  • 2 weeks later...

Not really, pwr steer idle up, a/c idle up, auto anti stall etc are all required for the niceties of a daily driver.... many afm based ecu's strugle without one. Nistune for one is happy to make upwards of 500rwkw but does not like having the iac removed.

if your ecu allows it and your not fussed about having a higher idle than std etc than yes it can be tuned around (mostly map based ecus).

The only people who seem to get good results with these are guys who need to justify the fact they sold it to the customer.... yes we tuned heaps yes they work (like std) would i put one on my own car ... no.

Niceties of a daily driver? Lol. Sometimes I forget that my priorities don't extend to giving a shit about those things. Still the car functions perfectly well, doesn't stall, steers fine and doesn't have air-con. ;)

Bugger that, for a daily i want aircon :thumbsup: All i gotta do is figure out an A/C fan to replace the stock one as the Plazmaman intercooler is so much thicker than my old ARC :cool:

Quick question for those with FFPs and stock bovs, where are you relocating your bov to and how did you do it? I'm currently thinking about what I'm going to do with my stock GTR bov. Ideally I'd like to keep it, but if it's too much hassle/cost then I am considering just ditching it. As I understand it, the closer to the TB the better, yes? What about flanges, where can I get a weld on flange?

Quick question for those with FFPs and stock bovs, where are you relocating your bov to and how did you do it? I'm currently thinking about what I'm going to do with my stock GTR bov. Ideally I'd like to keep it, but if it's too much hassle/cost then I am considering just ditching it. As I understand it, the closer to the TB the better, yes? What about flanges, where can I get a weld on flange?

My fabricator put the bov near the ffp and it vents to atmosphere ( I have a G4 Link with a MAP sensor). I hate the sound. I plan to relocate it to the other side (hot side) of the intercooler so I can plumb it in. I will need a long vacuum line so may make up a hard line.

No nearer the T/B is not better. Garrett actually say as close as possible to the turbo. I am sure there will be a fluid dynamic engineer or suchlike who can correct me but my take is that bovs are not about flow but about pressure relief and so it doesn't matter where it is. Some manufacturers put them on the intercooler itself.

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