Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The car has nismo radius rods with blue aftermarket adjustable radius rod bushes, which are a couple of years old. I noticed a chunk of bush on the garage floor, so I checked them and both are crumbling.

Can anyone guess the brand based on the colour? Noltec?

Is there an alternative brand that handles more strain (deformation)? Which brand is working for you?

Yes probably noltec if they are blue (they also have an unusual knurled bolt to adjust them).

And I've only ever had the aftermarket ones last a few years of hard use....I'd just replace them if I were you

Yes probably noltec if they are blue (they also have an unusual knurled bolt to adjust them).

And I've only ever had the aftermarket ones last a few years of hard use....I'd just replace them if I were you

Oh really? That's a bit crap. Maybe i'll try Nismos then. I'll loose the adjustablility but they should last.

This is one part of the suspension whre I reckon the metal rod end type are worth the defect risk. I noticed the change in how well the car turned in the instant I changed from urethane to metal bushes.

Did you use more caster with new arm? Maybe that was why it felt a lot better. You've got me interested tho. Which ones did you get? Much difference in NVH? My car is 95% street.

Yeah, the chassis guy who does my alignment was completely unscientific and just wound them to shortest length! Says Skylines can use all the caster you can throw at them basically. But when I drove it first up, I had set them to exactly the same length as the factory arms with urethane bushes. So the initial feel was all in the change to the joints.

NVH is not really an issue. I noticed no increase at suburban speeds, regardless of surface. On fast country roads (anything from 100km/h upwards) there is some extra chatter, mainly on the sort of roads that have ripples in the bitumen from tree roots. On smoother surfaces they stay pretty quiet even at high speed.

I got some Tein ones, secondhand. Joints were in good condition, so I just lubed them and threw them on. They have to come off soon for my car to go through Regency after the engine conversion, but will go straight back on, as I couldn't see myself staying with the old ones.

Dark blue or light blue?

Light blue = noltec, dark blue = superpro.

Noltec are a lower duro than most of the other aftermarket ones, they may have just flexed a bit much seeing as it's a pretty big bush.

I'm running mostly noltec in the back of my s13 atm so might check them when i swap the rear brakes over in the next couple of weeks.

As Dave said Noltec is more of a light blue and SuperPro a dark blue/purple.

In my experience the SuperPro ones are quite long lasting - part # SPF1202AK.

Dark blue or light blue?

Light blue = noltec, dark blue = superpro.

Noltec are a lower duro than most of the other aftermarket ones, they may have just flexed a bit much seeing as it's a pretty big bush.

I'm running mostly noltec in the back of my s13 atm so might check them when i swap the rear brakes over in the next couple of weeks.

They're not as dark as the photos here; http://www.superpro.com.au/find-superpro-parts-for-my-vehicle/part?id=SPF1202AK so i'm guessing they're noltec. Maybe i'll try superpro or whiteline...

SuperPro bushes have a 36 Months / 60,000 km warranty. Sounds like you may have had Noltec ones?

We carry the SuperPro ones in stock, ready for express dispatch:

http://www.jdmobsession.net/suspension-bushings/s13-silvia-180sx/spf1202ak-adj-caster-rod-bushes-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-z32-q45

Well that's an offer i cant refuse. I've ordered the SPF1202AK.

Cheers

I dont like using urethane for radius rods or anyway control arms. Because Polyurethane bushes are self lubracatning it causes them to shift a lot and also the twisting motion is what causes them to crumble. The only time i use urethane is in sway bar D bushes as its an advantage for the bar.

Im using Nismo radius rods and 2 years later they look and feel brand new and handle just as well and take 5 min each side to fit so its a lot easier than swaping bushes. Bad thing is it cost $300 for the set so its a lot more.

I dont like using urethane for radius rods or anyway control arms. Because Polyurethane bushes are self lubracatning it causes them to shift a lot and also the twisting motion is what causes them to crumble. The only time i use urethane is in sway bar D bushes as its an advantage for the bar.

Im using Nismo radius rods and 2 years later they look and feel brand new and handle just as well and take 5 min each side to fit so its a lot easier than swaping bushes. Bad thing is it cost $300 for the set so its a lot more.

Just like rubber, there are differing grades of polyurethane. SuperPro stuff is a unique compound. I've been using their products for years in my car without any issues.

Further, we have sold 1000s of SuperPro products in the past couple of years and have never had any returned with quality issues. We believe polyurethane bushes are a quality alternative to worn rubber bushes at a much lower price than brand new OEM rubber ones.

SuperPro bushes have a 36 Months / 60,000 km warranty. Sounds like you may have had Noltec ones?

I've used pretty much every brand of aftermarket bush (particularly in 32 upper arms), and found superpro to be no better or worse than any of the other brands.

And given OP confirmed he does some track work, how is the 3 year warranty affected?

I've used pretty much every brand of aftermarket bush (particularly in 32 upper arms), and found superpro to be no better or worse than any of the other brands.

And given OP confirmed he does some track work, how is the 3 year warranty affected?

Hi Duncan,

Thanks for your input. I wasn't meaning to start a brand war or make unsubstantiated comments, just wanted to make clear that we have never had any SuperPro products returned with any quality issues.

As for your question regarding warranty, there is no mention of track use in their warranty policy (here it is in full):

36 Months / 60,000 km

All SuperPro suspension components, which are supplied for the specific applications listed in the current catalogue and are fitted according to SuperPro fitting guidelines, are covered by a 3 year or 60,000km limited warranty from the date of the purchase and from the ORIGINAL owner.

This warranty is limited to replacement of the faulty component only, and does not cover the cost of removal and replacement and consequential damage, where this limitation is permitted under Australian State and Federal Legislation. All warranty returns must be submitted by an Authorised SuperPro Distributor and must be correctly tagged for identification purposes.

All Warranties (unless otherwise stated on the invoice) start from the invoice date and carry the months stated or the kilometres stated, whichever occurs first.

Source: http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/warranties.html

Hope that helps.

Pete

JDM Obsession

I've used pretty much every brand of aftermarket bush (particularly in 32 upper arms), and found superpro to be no better or worse than any of the other brands.

Duncan, do you run factory spec castor? I've wondered if non-spec castor puts a lot of force on those upper arm bushes because they're constrained in that dimension and chop out the bush. IIRC factory spec is 3.? degrees.

Also - do these bushes need a press to fit?

Also - do these bushes need a press to fit?

Yes, they do. It's a very easy job with a press if you are doing it DIY, alternatively any suspension shop should be able to do it very cheaply if you take the arms to them, ready to go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Damn it, I was at work last night, and stayed in a room there during the storm with the car outside, but undercover, I just went downstairs and well....there was a large steel locker that has come from some place last night, it wasn't anywhere I could see yesterday, and yeap, it landed on the fraking car....of course it did..... LOL So, I'll need to take it back for paint and panel, luckily it was only the boot that took the hit, so it could have been worse Serves me right for staying at work and getting on the cans with some of the boys
    • Yeah, really happy with how it all turned out As for aftermarket lip, nah, I'm not really a fan for practically reasons on a street car that gets driven everywhere  I did have the full lower kit on my 2015 STI, but found the front lip scrapped alot, even at stock 4x4ish ride height As the NC sits now, with the lowest point of the car at 110mm, so just legal, some steep driveways and steep speed humps will still "just" scrap those little plastic OEM air dam thingies on the undertray just before the front wheels
    • Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
×
×
  • Create New...