Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys!

Went out and got 235/40/18 all round for my 18x9,5j et26..

Looked like this:

11825608_1125171084217480_85036708787422

But I went out and got another set of wheels :yes:

OEM R34 GTR wheels to be exact...

What would you recommend for those....was leaning toward 235/40 but would be a shame if I could pull of a wider tyre size and didnt go for it.

Dont want to roll the guards or anything. Car has coilovers and will be dropped the lowest it can go with these wheels :)

Cheers

  • 1 month later...

What look are you after? Since you didn't bother to read this thread no state that.

Just looking for function as its a track car mainly. All I want to know is whats the maximum I can go with standard guards. Will consider a little guard roll if I have too

Just looking for function as its a track car mainly. All I want to know is whats the maximum I can go with standard guards. Will consider a little guard roll if I have too

youl have to be a bit more specific mate, if youv got a 17" wheel... to get an offset for you.. wel need to know what width wheel also.. and tyre size will also come into factor for clearance.. if the standard wheel is 17x7.5 and around +40 then youl want to bring the offset down to around +20 for that wheel to get a decent flush fitment.. just adjust for your width and tyres :)

Anyone have an idea if 17x7 et40 will fit a 25gtt with 215/45/17 all round?

Yes it will fit but like junkie said it's skinnier than the GTT stockies (17x7.5 ET40) so what's the point?

Stockies can be had for around $200 for a set, I've got one for the street and another for track, they work a treat with 20mm spacers too.

Downsides: heavy, and won't clear big brakes.

No worries, thanks guys. Only wondering since I got offered a set of nice white volks with toyo tyres that have 90% tred on them all round for $300 and the tyres on mine are toast.

Ah ok, good price but. Make sure you check tyre load capacity first to make sure it's not too low for the heavy gtt.
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

577a60c30666b_ImageUploadedBySAUCommunit

577a61d894418_ImageUploadedBySAUCommunit

577a61f1eaa34_ImageUploadedBySAUCommunit

One for the list, 4 door

18x9.5 +26, 245/40 all round

Fronts I had to roll and pull the guards, rear I have just rolled the lip a little. Camber is 1.5 front and 1 rear

Nismo Stune suspension so it's not overly low, firm but not hard Spring rates

Good clearance on suspension on full lock etc

  • Like 3
  • 1 month later...

I have a '98 R34 GT-T. 

I had some Rota Grid 18x9.5 +35 and 18x10.5 +35 with 235/40 tires. 

Fitment looked good but the fronts actually scrubbed on the inside suspension when turning too far. The 235's on the 10.5's were also a bit TOO stretched for my taste.

So today I just installed some Work Emotion 11R 18x9.5 +20's all around and kept the 235/40 tires. The fitment looks perfectly flush with the rear fenders but sticks out considerably on the front. VERY aggressive but it DOES fit with stock fenders and doesn't scrub. I like it. I don't intend to roll. I'm running stock GT-R shocks/struts.

Pics:

C225EEB7-3802-4046-AD97-10790DA7A23C_zps

81050FCF-1B5C-40F3-94CB-92EF96C008E1_zps

97E5D908-5A53-46C5-A43C-5771137A6314_zps

Edited by YoshiFD3S

Hi Everyone, hopefully not going off topic here

Been searching for a few hours regarding SSR wheel disk types (specifically SSR SP3) and can't find out if a super low disk or even normal disk will clear the GTT front brakes, people run hyper disc to clear brembos on their Evo's and Gtr's but I'd like as much dish as possible for my wheel width.

Hey guys, 

Have had a read around, however just wanted clarification. Am looking at ordering some Rota Grids for my R34 GTT.

Have settled on 18 x 8.5 + 30 all around. From what I've picked up online, that should be fit easily no scrubbing etc, correct? I'm basing this off how GTR sized (18 x 9 + 30) are supposed to be a great fit on a GTT.

Cheers.  

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If the RB29 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
×
×
  • Create New...