Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice


Shoujiki

Recommended Posts

9.5 +15 on the front will not fit without scrubbing. You'd need wide guards atleast. I'm running 8.5 +30 with the same size tyre and it fits perfectly. In fact Nismo recommend an 8.5/+30 for the GTT.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nismo sizes are 8.5+30 and 9.5+35 I think?

My LMGT4's are 18x8.5" +30 and 18x9.5" +38 - I had thought that was the recommended size from Nismo for R34 GTT.

Fits pretty well, some slight scrub at full lock going up a driveway or something.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah mate dont get 9.5 15 they wont fit at all unless you have wider guards, try 18x9 +30 front and 18x9.5 +35 rear will fit perfect if you cars lowered on coils maybe roll gaurds but i dont think youd need to. Check my sig for what im running with unmodified guards :) good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im hunting for abit of advice, have my r34 gtt and it needs some new shoes. Im looking at a set of jdm concepts and works joint venture the gt5's. The sizes are 18x9 +30 for the front and 18x10 +38 for the rears. Ideally 245's on the front and 265's on the rear. Ive got what looks like stock height if anything maybe slightly lowered. Based on experiences what problems could i encounter and any ways of getting around them?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah mate dont get 9.5 15 they wont fit at all unless you have wider guards, try 18x9 +30 front and 18x9.5 +35 rear will fit perfect if you cars lowered on coils maybe roll gaurds but i dont think youd need to. Check my sig for what im running with unmodified guards :) good luck

Have i have the wheels on there way I have Justable coilovers or I just change that with getting both fronts and rears rolled or how would I got with getting wider guards

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im hunting for abit of advice, have my r34 gtt and it needs some new shoes. Im looking at a set of jdm concepts and works joint venture the gt5's. The sizes are 18x9 +30 for the front and 18x10 +38 for the rears. Ideally 245's on the front and 265's on the rear. Ive got what looks like stock height if anything maybe slightly lowered. Based on experiences what problems could i encounter and any ways of getting around them?

I have exactly those profiles wheels and tyres and fits 100% perfect, no scrub or lock rub and im on ajusties slightly raised to just below stock high.

Have i have the wheels on there way I have Justable coilovers or I just change that with getting both fronts and rears rolled or how would I got with getting wider guards

I dont think rolling guards will help as they will poke alot my old 9.5 +22 poked about 2cm or so. Um maybe have a look at viva garage for some fibre glass wide fenders or more expensive fit a set of gtr fenders. Good luck mate
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Got some new wheels today for the R34 GTT

Enkei NT03-M matte black

18x9.5 +27 all four corners

20150610_115824_zpsjxjixgip.jpg

20150610_115847_zps164ee0s7.jpg

I test fitted one side, currently there is 265/40/18 tires on all of them (which will be replaced)

The fronts I plan to run 235/40/18, rears 265/35/18

Chime in if you have any tire suggestions or fitment suggestions....my front and rears are already rolled.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

hey guys, Just looking at getting a new set for my 34, currently have 19x8 +35 with 235's all round.

I wanted to get some koya drift teks but they only have 18x9.5 available at the moment, a couple of tyre shops have said they'll make them fit no worries, but I'm not to keen on having huge aggressive fitment on the front, I just want them sitting flush.

So Im leaning towards getting concave concept CC03's in 18x9 +20 with 235's all round, would I need guard work? not a big deal if I do, the shop will roll them for free anyways. what do you think?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey guys, Just looking at getting a new set for my 34, currently have 19x8 +35 with 235's all round.

I wanted to get some koya drift teks but they only have 18x9.5 available at the moment, a couple of tyre shops have said they'll make them fit no worries, but I'm not to keen on having huge aggressive fitment on the front, I just want them sitting flush.

So Im leaning towards getting concave concept CC03's in 18x9 +20 with 235's all round, would I need guard work? not a big deal if I do, the shop will roll them for free anyways. what do you think?

with the 9.5 youl want around a +32/35ish off set for them to sit flush but then you may run into issues with clearing suspension arms on the front.. and most likely be limited to a max of a 235 tyre on the front... and possble scrub if your cars lowered to much.

on the other hand. 18x9 +30 is the sweet spot for all unmodified guard work on gtt, that being said +20 would sit 1cm further out the arch so more aggressive.. and id run at less a 245 Tyre on a 9" wheel unless you want a tiny bit of stretch. but if you do go with the +20 offset stretch em tyres or your gonna have a scrubing time :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

haha cheers, yeah Im thinking the 9's in +20 would sit heaps nice with a bit of stretch. the only other option is a set of dtm p5 wheels (a replica of the drift teks which are a replica) I found in 18x9 +25 so thats kind of a happy medium I guess?

no its just a toss up of what ooks better, that drift tek sort of style or concave concepts. any opinions?

DSC_0902-1.jpg

$T2eC16NHJF4FFku0T!)1BSdGU3nIPg~~60_1.JP

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...