Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

Just wanted to say a big thanks to @ob1, @r34.bryan & @Gazzaa

Ended up going with some Rota's. Really happy with the result. Thanks to your kind replies and info they fit perfectly. No scrubbing or guard rolling and car is lowered. Looks 100% better.

For any other budding R34 Gtt drivers out there, this is what I went with.

F: 18 x 8.5 +30 - 235/40R18

R: 18 x 9.5 +35 - 255/35R18

 

4 v1.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 2 months later...

R34 with Rota D2-EX in 18x9.5+18 all round.

tyres - 235/45 all round.

Fit perfect. Has BC BR coilovers set to fairly stiff. Slight rubbing on front inner plastic guard at full lock. And only rubs on the rear slightly if I hit a huge dip in the road at speed. Will probably give the rear guards a slight roll and lower more in the back.

5B3A2C87-7F15-4C5E-9CE0-957BD9FA6189.jpeg

214B3063-78F5-4637-8CB7-C1586A20E6A9.jpeg

B423AA99-41F7-470E-B4B7-667D11EDAC94.jpeg

E7FE73B1-CD06-4C0A-8FF9-2D64BB6FD107.jpeg

4AA179DA-9411-4BCA-9577-E7BBC6BCCADA.jpeg

2095222F-59D6-4EC1-A920-AF52D5B712E8.jpeg

  • 2 weeks later...
On 07/04/2020 at 3:49 PM, r34.bryan said:

Hi, does anyone know if a 18x9.5 +22 265/35 square setup will fit a r34 gtt coupe?

I'm looking for a set of SSR GTX01 and I would like to run this size for the concave look. I don't like streched tires so thats why i chose 265/35 on a 9.5j

Hope anyone can help me.

Thanks!

Supposedly a 18x9.5 +22 will be flush fitment. I just can’t seem to figure out whether 255/35 or 235/40 is the move on tyres.

I’m hoping someone can enlighten me on that.

  • 2 months later...
On 11/28/2020 at 3:32 AM, Us3rNaMeD said:

Supposedly a 18x9.5 +22 will be flush fitment. I just can’t seem to figure out whether 255/35 or 235/40 is the move on tyres.

I’m hoping someone can enlighten me on that.

I'm figuring out my setup at the moment - alignment isn't for another 5 weeks.

For the front I'm running TE37s in 18x9.5 +22. Camber arms are Cusco and they're set at the max negative setting, which is -2.2 according to the manual, but are likely around -3 with the drop. 

Front tires are 235/40 Hankook V12 Evo 2s which I'm using for getting the sizes right. 

Arches are rolled flat and pulled very slightly. As you can see, there was probably no need to do this.

I'm contemplating getting 255/35s up front and dialing the camber back to -1.35 (as per the manual) but it will be tight. I am currently hitting the fender liners at full lock.

Sorry the pic is portrait, I took this to send on my phone.

 

S__16236575-c.jpg

Dialled the front camber back to 1.35 degrees (as per the cusco manual), it's probably around 2.5 degrees with the drop. Rear camber is unknown at the moment. 

Wheels: TE37 SL 9.5J, +22/ 10J +10

Tires: Hankook V12 Ventus Evo2 235/40/18 front and 255/40/18 rear

Fenders rolled flat. 

IMG-9433-1.thumb.jpg.149c616bd66f42611bf3264b3d7253bc.jpg

IMG-9435-1.jpg

  • Like 1

Thankyou for that last update, I went measuring based off your previous post (cause it looks great) and I was thinking the differential between the fronts and rears was a bit weird for it to fit so nicely.

Looks awesome dude

  • Like 1
7 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Thankyou for that last update, I went measuring based off your previous post (cause it looks great) and I was thinking the differential between the fronts and rears was a bit weird for it to fit so nicely.

Looks awesome dude

No worries, cheers for the appreciation.

I should probably note that the rears are hitting the bumper tabs under high compression - happened a few times on the highway. I think the toe is out quite a bit (toe in) - just from eyeballing it. The 255/40s were the fronts off my Z, they're not ideal but they fill the gap well. I'm undecided of where to go from here, possibly 265/35 rear and 255/35 front when i upgrade (hankook V12s are sh*te).

The fronts are scrubbing the liners on full lock and again under compression. I'm gonna heat them up and try to push them back, possibly try and push the fronts up with the arch roller, then I've got some weather stripping to seal the newly-formed gap between the liner and the fender.

  • 1 month later...

Did anyone manage to fit a 18 inch 275 in the back without stretching the tyre? Chasing the Performance here, so a meaty tyre is desired.

As i'm reading 255s are scrubbing the liners in the front, anyone fitted 245s? Since any visible scrubbing on the liners will get your car immediately impounded here and they check that in EVERY police control 😕

You can put huge tyres on the back with custom wheels, there's a ton of room on the inside of the R34 rear to pick up some seriously large rubber. I think I measured I had something like 40mm extra room to play with when I stuck my head under there and measured. (and I have 275's back there already)

Would need a rim with a custom offset to make use of this though.

Fronts you can run 255 without scrubbing. I run 265's up the front (265/35/18) and didn't have any scrubbing until I took it to the race track. Even then if I got creative with a heat gun I could have moulded it further away/clippied it closer to the body if I had've cared a great deal.

(I care a little deal)

Funny enough if you have wide enough guards a 285/30/18 (or 295!) will avoid liners better than a 275/35/18. But that's future talk.

  • Like 1

Is there actually no one that uses the performance of their Cars? Barely getting any information out of this thread... Seems like people love putting 235 tyres on a 18x9.5 Rim... (My GFs Mini Cooper has bigger tyres btw.)

Trying to figure out which size and offset i should order my Volk Ce28n in is a nightmare, since i currently only got 255 in the back and they can't hold the power on a mountain road. Should fit beefy Toyo R888R but can't have any rubbing or scrubbing under any circumstances, full lock steering in a circle 5x at 40 km/h will be tested, else the Car gets impounded.

Got my new wheels and tires!

Wheels: Work Emotion ZR10 (front: 18x8.5J +32 rear: 18x9.5J +30)

Tires: Toyo Proxes R888R (front: 245/40 rear: 265/35)

Car: 1998 R34 GT-T coupe with stock fenders, lowered on coilovers.

Camber: front: -2.2° rear: -2.5° I will reduce camber on the rear to about -1° or -1.5° soon.

I hope this can help someone. Fitment is perfect I would say.

Thanks to everyone on this thread for your info, experiences and helping me choose the right sizes.

For those interested in my built, follow me on Instagram @r34.bryan 🤙

20210313_163117.jpg

20210313_163730.jpg

20210313_163721.jpg

Edited by r34.bryan
  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...

I recently just changed the tire setup on my car. As mentioned, the previous setup was for trial purposes and I really wasn't a fan. The rear profile was just too large and it kept clipping the bumper tabs.

I'm now running Accelera 651 Sports in 255/35 18 front and 265/35 18 rear. It's clipping the liner in the front under lock but as @Kinkstaah mentioned, you can push them back with a heat gun.

Wheel specs are the same: Volk TE37SL 9.5 +22 and 10 +20 rear. If I were buying these again (I orginally bought them for my Z33), I would likely get 9.5 +22 all round.

Camber is -3 front, -2.4 rear. 

IMG-0254-1.jpg

IMG-0250-1.jpg

IMG-0244-1.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...